Top 20 Amana AFD2535DES French Door Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Is the display flashing when you try and use it or can you hear the dispenser door opening and closing rapidly (clicking or clapping sound)? These are prone to the board going bad and losing the dispenser. Is the "ice" light lit on the dispenser? The touch pad could be bad too. Do you hear the auger motor turning the ice when you press the dispenser? or just the "shhhhhhh" of the water coming out? If there is ice in the bucket then that is not the problem. Dump it and listen if you hear new ice drop to verify. There is no such part called an "ice element". Ice maker-yes.. Heating element-yes.. Ice dispenser-yes

I would say you have a bad jazz board,do this open the right hand side door of the fridge,you'll see on the touch pad the up and down arrows,hold the light switch in and press the down key three times,let go of the light switch press the down button again and i think it says like s and p can't remember but press the down one more time and you should see 4 and 4 or whatever settings you had if you see this close the door,open the freezer, by doing what i told you you manually put it into defrost,if you hear the compressor running the board is bad part WPW10503278 and i have to tell you i've changed quite a few of these boards.also if the strip between the doors are hot check you coil on the bottom,usually when this happens the condenser coil is blocked with dust or the condenser fan isn't blowing,if you ever find the fan not blowing you can get a house fan and blow it onto the compressor and coil this will keep it cool until you change out the fan motor and you won't loose any food but that's another day.your coil might just need to be cleaned or the jazz board could be causing this because the compressor is running longer than it should.if you unplug the fridge,melt out all the ice off of the coil as best you can but the more the better you'll be able to use the fridge like normal for like 10 to 12 days then the coil will freeze up again so order the board melt out the ice with a hair dryer and you should be fine,if you need a hand programming the new board let me know i would tell you how to do it but i don't know if people are getting my answers nobody writes back,so open the freezer door,open the right side door,hold the light switch in,push the down button three times,let go of the light switch and push the down pad again and one more time you should see settings again,close the door,if compressor is running the board is bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUoGLZYv... one more thing if you remove the bottom kick plate there should be a tech sheet either folded up and it's in the kick plate or it's in a plastic pouch taped up to the floor check right side but could be on left too and clean the coil while you're down there

Possible the source of the trouble you are having is the bracket might not be available or available separately. Most parts lists have an exploded drawing showing all the parts and these are an invaluable aid to obtaining the correct spare parts. I suggest you ask the service department to fax or email a drawing to you.

There a number of reasons that ice forms on the evaporator coil. One is no air flow or not enough air flow over the coil. Another reason could be the unit is not going into defrost. There will be some ice on evap coil most of the time, but the defrost cycle should remove the ice. If there is not enough air flow across the coil to take away the cold, the coil will build up ice. I would check the defrost cycle and make sure there is not an obstruction in the circulating fan system. On the older refrigerators you could turn the defrost timer to defrost, but the newer models have circuit boards, and I am not sure how to force the defrost.

there is two adjusters at the front corners of the fridge

Unfortunately he may be right. however, There are a couple things you can check. Is it built-in, meaning... do you have cabinets, directly above? Impeding, being able to raise the front of the unit, so that it can "tilt" towards the rear? Do you follow me? Make sure the doors have jars, bottles, whatever... the weight helps.. Down on the floor, the fronts usually have adjustments, allowing this feature for the purpose in mind.. check too, there are no obstructions.. meaning the drawers aren't in any way coming in contact (where even slightly could intrude.) check foods or containers do pass beyond the edges of the shelves. If I recall, 5-7 lbs of outward pressure, is required by law, to enable the doors of any unit to open. Check the gaskets on the hinge sides, they should be resting Flat, (the same way the top rests, against the metel surface when t he door is closed. )

Tell us more about this.

The control arm on ice maker broke off

Is the compressor running?

You may want to test the ice maker voltage to the fill valve( using a short length of insulated 14 guage wire, with both ends stripped, and a multi meter or test light attached the the icemaker fill valve wires, insert the end of the wire into the "T" and "H" openings in the front of the ice maker, hold the wires there until the main gear starts to rotate, then remove the wire. When the rake arm reaches the 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock position, the control module should send 120 VAC to the fill valve and the light or meter should indicate the voltage is present.Please post back your results so I may help you further.Regards,Richard Rothhttp://appliancecafe.com

thermostat faulty, or maybe defrost timer/heater not working

I would first check all water supply's inside and out to make sure we have water at the solonoid, then check to make sure the door switch has power and is working properley, then I would check to make sure of the proper operation of water solonoid, check it for sticking and make sure the coil is not fried. Hope this helps

Yes there is a heater there that will eliminate frost from growing on it. There is no worry here that is normal.

Denese Service Manual for your AFD2535DES is HERE and the test I need you to do may seem a little hard to do but feel we can identify the problem as either a=> 67003903 Air Damper or a 12002355 Thermistor You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view these documents. The Adobe Acrobat Reader is available as a free download. I also want you to remove the rear panel inside the back of your freezer and insure that no ice or frost buildup is causing the 67003903 Air Damper to be stuck in the open position. Testing/Check resistance across terminals on the two terminals on the 67003903 air damper. If no resistance across terminals replace damper control. Once you are able to download the Service Manual I will be here explain and to answer any question you have. Thanks, Sea Breeze 12002355 Thermistor

the evaporator coil is frozen. i have had this problem for a while. i just figured it out. i believe the compressor is not shutting down. everone else is talking about a bbad fan but that might be a symptom of a frozen coil. i am further investigating.[email protected] (self proclaimed worlds best troubleshooter)

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
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:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

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NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel
needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel
underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils)
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain
If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? The defrost water
overflows into the ref. or freezer or on floor
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101