JVM1790SK - May 27, 2017
The first thing to do is be sure your outlet works and works "under load." The best way to test it under load is with a toaster or hair dryer.
You can also try powering the microwave from another outlet via long extension cord, but only for testing.
If the outlet is good, then the problem will be inside the microwave.
First unplug the oven. Then see
my video here which shows you how to remove the grille and controller assembly on most over the range models.
If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.
There should be a technical sheet (hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille) which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
There were two versions of this model. The second version has more thermostats ("TSTAT" in the technical sheet).
Both version have a 20A fuse on the filter board, a magnetron thermostat (MAG TSTAT), and an oven thermostat (OVEN TSTAT).
To check the oven thermostat, you may need to remove the oven from the wall, in which case you should refer to your installation instructions. It and your owner's manual can be found
online here.
If you have a version 2 model, it will also have a heater thermostat (HTR TSTAT), and a bottom thermostat (BOTTOM STAT).
When checking the thermostats, measure with a continuity checker or multimeter or ohmmeter. The fuse and all thermostats should read "closed" or near zero ohms.
(Ignore the "HOOD TCO" which will have thinner, more colorful wires. It will read open, and that is normal. If it fails, it shorts, and then the hood fan stays on all the time.)
You can order GE microwave parts
here.
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- William E. Miller, AS-EET
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http://www.microwavecontrol.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide
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