20 Most Recent
GE JES1384SF Microwave Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers
Microwave about 3 years old. Started making a bag
Quite
often this is due to grease or food particles stuck somewhere in the
cavity of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.
The
waveguide cover (also called a spatter shield) is usually about the
size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.
It can be fragile, and
the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!
The cover and the metal
behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.
If the metal of the oven wall is burned or chipped, the area will
first have to be sanded smooth and
cleaned and dried thoroughly.
Then you can apply some
high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart,
Lowe's or Builder's Square.
If the cavity metal of
the oven is cracked or split, you can use a small amount
of steel-based epoxy such as JB-WELD
to patch the crack or hole.
Once that dries
thoroughly, you can sand it very smooth, then apply paint.
If your
waveguide cover
is burned, it will need to be replaced.
It provides critical
protection for the magnetron.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
Timer working but not heating
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
My turntable stopped running
If you didn't buy the turntable motor then I assume you purchased the coupler ( white plastic/nylon piece that fits into the turntable motor collar and rotates the platen? Is that what you purchased?
Light Bulb Works but the Rest Won't
We repair these on a regular basis for customers nationwide with our guaranteed $39.95 service.
We have full details, plus *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site. You'll find a link to our site in our listing here on FixYa:
http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:
http://tinyurl.com/gv383
I've got a GE Advantium 120/Model ZCS1001KSS01, the display will get lines thru it, and comes in and out of view, and will always finish its cycle. however, when you go back to use, it is dead.
The problem with your Display of your GE Microwave/Speedcooker is not the Digitron WB27X10856 display board? The flickering and ultimately failure over of the display is due to the WB27X10861 GE microwave control board which is a rebranded (LG 6871W1A417/6871W1A417A board) which GE then sells as a markup. The princple purpose of this board is to convert (i.e. rectify) AC to DC at various voltage levels needed by the rest of the microwave to run their control circuits in the microwave. A portion of the GE microwave is always on so the AC/DC supplly is always on. Overtime the electrolytic capacitors in a section of the board fail or degrade to a point they the DC suppy starts to produce ripples in the DC power supply which results in circuit board failures. These ripples produce deep spikes of voltage of 120 Hz that the other circuits are sensitive too. I just exmined a failed WB27X10861 board and measued the capacitance of each of the seven electroylic capacitors. Of the 7 capacitors, 2 had failed over time. The others 5 have degraded 10 to 15 percent but still within their design spec. The two that failed, C07 - 1000uF 25 V had a measured value of 207uF and the other C08 - 220uF had a measured value of 13uF. There was no visible bloating on either SAMWHA SG capacitor. Nomally, these capacitors are rated at 2000 hour at 85 degree C. 2000 hr is only 83 days, but since the voltage is less and the temperature is probably 40 to 50 degrees inside the capacitor these capacitors may last 10 years. They harder they work the shorter the lifespan. There are two solutions, either purchase a new replacement control board or replace the failed C07 and C08 capacitors within the failed board with better ones. You can easily buy 10,000 hour , 105 degree C rated capacitors for probably 25 cents more than 2,000 hour capacitor. Most people don't have the resouces to repair a board so buying a new board is their only solution. Don't buy a used board on ebay because a used board is probably on the verge of failure.
Not finding what you are looking for?
