GE XL1800 1100 Watts Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You could try a new plug just in case, next the fuse inside or thermal cut out could be @ fault, could be the cable transformer end as it enters the micro.....

Excessive 60 cycle hum/vibration means a bad Magnetron. Time to replace the unit.

It looks like a component is short-circuited and then it acts to protect. Call a service.

ITS MAY BE HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE PROBLEM. DIODE OR CAPACITOR

The high pitch sound to me may be coming from the speaker on the main circuit board. Try to unplug for a few minutes, reset clock time and then try again. If same issue, may need new PC board. When you say Microwave continues to run are you meaning the Turntable is turning and the fan running?? Or is it just timing down. Almost never does it actually keep heating. On GE units I mostly find bad door switches will cause a back feed and make the tray turn and the cooling fan for the mag to run. To see if that is the problem You have to look at the door switches behind the front panel on the left side and see if any of them have any browned connections on the terminals where they push ontl the back of the switch. That will cause the fan and turntable toi run, but wouldnt cause a high pitch squeal. These companies use switches wtih small 3/16 terminals that dont give a good enough grab on the switch, they get loose and hot and make the switch go bad. I replace that switch with a switch with 1/4 inch terminals and runa short section of Hi temp wite to it and it wont go bad again. Just cheaply made!! Also I guess the squeal could come from the turntable motor area. So By fixing the switch problem it could fix your squeal. With nothing else running you may be able to hear motor and coupling noise you couldnt hear before.

Check the internal ceramic fuse on the circuit board. Sometimes one section will work while another won't. I'm not sure if this model has a rear mounted thermal fuse, but the models with the inline thermal fuse will cause a similar issue.

I had a hard time to find this fix. you unplug it for 1min and then plug it back in and press and hold the power and 0 keys for 30sec. That is it http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/microwave-repair/33654-stuck-demo-mode-no-heat.html#ixzz48TqseDoE

PCM/Smart board (comes with the keypad), If it is less that 30 days beyound the 12 month warranty call GE and ask for a "good will concession" ... 1800-GECARES

Try removing the power cord for about a minute, push all the touch pad 'buttons' and then plug it back in. If this doesn't work it sounds like you may have a bad door interlock switch or a bad PCM .. Good luck !

More information will be needed to solve this issue. Does the keypad work? What about the interior light or the turntable? Check the internal fuse, and the door interlock switches.

The circuit board is in a separate section so the motherboard can't come into contact with the exploded egg. Was any liquid cleaning solution sprayed inside to clean up the mess? There might be some crevices where cleaning solution spray could work its way into the circuit board section since it's very close by. Always use a damp cloth instead of saturating the oven with cleaner.

On the exhaust system (top of unit) there is a small metal 'damper' that is most likely stuck shut. If that is all clear then you have a problem in the duct work of the home.

it seems that the right wall inside of the microwave is absorbing most of the microwave energy. If the panels are replaceable then you might want to consider having them replaced but it probably wouldn't be worth it. Maybe buying a new microwave will save you a lot of expense and grief. Good luck

Elaine, it will be inside the outer housing of the microwave. Un-plug the power cord and then take out the screws holding the outer cover on, some may be a special "torx" screw which will take a special tool to remove them. The fuse will be right near where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Usually goes to a small circuit board and the black wire typically connects to one end of the clip that the fuse snaps into. Hope this helps.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your part number or the full model number from the tag on the oven here.

The Titanic looked fine! :) You have blown a fuse. Check inside the oven chamber and look for missing powder paint or signs of arcing, if so there is a paint to repair microwaves for this issue or else just dispose of the microwave. If the inside is good remove all the screws and remove the cover. Replace the fuse. If the magnetron was making louder noises prior then replace the magnetron. Since the fuse went the giant capacitor is likely bad. While the cabinet is open make sure to look for burned wires, check the continuity of thermal cutoffs, and check the main circuit-board for burned traces or components. The relays in most electronics are known for arcing (spot welding) and staying in the wrong position. Tap them hard with the back end of a screwdriver. During all of this use safe electrical practices by having the power cord unplugged. The capacitor could still have a high charge on it so be careful.

If the magnetron was making louder noises prior then replace the magnetron. While the cabinet is open make sure to look for burned wires, check the continuity of thermal cutoffs, and check the main circuit-board for burned traces or components. The relays in most electronics are known for arcing (spot welding) and staying in the wrong position. Tap them hard with the back end of a screwdriver. You may have to replace the capacitor as well. During all of this use safe electrical practices by having the power cord unplugged. The capacitor could still have a high charge on it so be careful.

If the magnetron was making louder noises prior then replace the magnetron. While the cabinet is open make sure to look for burned wires, check the continuity of thermal cutoffs, and check the main circuit-board for burned traces or components. The relays in most electronics are known for arcing (spot welding) and staying in the wrong position. Tap them hard with the back end of a screwdriver. You may also have to replace the capacitor. During all of this use safe electrical practices by having the power cord unplugged. The capacitor could still have a high charge on it so be careful.

If the magnetron was making louder noises prior then replace the magnetron. While the cabinet is open make sure to look for burned wires, check the continuity of thermal cutoffs, and check the main circuit-board for burned traces or components. The relays in most electronics are known for arcing (spot welding) and staying in the wrong position. Tap them hard with the back end of a screwdriver. You may have to replace the capacitor too. During all of this use safe electrical practices by having the power cord unplugged. The capacitor could still have a high charge on it so be careful.

Yes no problem just unplug the unit first