20 Most Recent Danby 4.7 cu. ft. / 133 liter Upright Freezer DUF419W Questions & Answers

you need to call a technician unless you know how to solder the copper line with the silver if not id suggest you call the technician because this way they also bring the new refrigerant as well and it would be included in the price that they give you if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation Thanks again
Rick

as a general rule, no. Laying it on it's side can cause the oil in the compressor to flow into other parts of the systems so when you turn it on, it may damage the compressor. The general rule of thumb is, if you should do that, you should not run the unit for at least 24 hours. This should, but not for sure, allow the oil to flow back to the compressor. I've never heard anything good from anyone who's ever done this.

Hi,
The motor not clicking in is probably electrical internally in the motor...even with the system being sealed it is not a good thing for the motor to be sitting and not running at all for years...not to mention that there is also a relay and t-stat invoved there that may not be contacting properly to send the proper voltage to the motor.
In short, I do not believe that it is a refrigeration system problem, but an electrical problem somewhere...
Start at the power terminals of the compressor and work backwards till you find voltage...that will give you the culprit.

heatman101

Probably there's a freon leak (refrigerant) that has to be fixed (remember this is a seal system and shouldn't leak)and then recharged.

One of these is a power light. It typically remains on while the freezer is in use. No light means either a blown bulb or no power. The other is associated with the thermostat. But it does NOT indicate that freezer temperature is appropriate. Flickering appears to indicate the bulbs are simply failing. The bulbs are neon, I think, and are not cheap. Some might try replacing such with LEDs. I have seen comment that the bulbs are not long lasting. www.manualslib.com has numerous danby freezer manuals but I do not know your model. Have a look.

Is there a lock? Otherwise, it could be frozen to the top if there was liquid water that refroze. Warm it up with a hairdryer around the lid rim.

If compressor not running at all, it’s either a power supply problem, or a thermostat / control board

Could be relay and overload on compressor are bad

In that model the Temperature Control often is the culprit. When the freezer gets very cold it shuts off. The because it is not running it gets warmer and will start to work again. I would perhaps focus on the Temperature Control.

both feet screw in and out so use spanners to loosen of the lock nut or pliers to move the rusted thread A spray of wd-40 may help

The drip pan on any freezer collects ice melts from the evaporator during the defrost cycle. Most of them are mounted on the compressor and use the compressor waste heat to evaporate the water. If there is rotten meat smell in the drip pan it means there is also rotten meat smell in the evaporator coils and fins. It's almost impossible to get "stuff" out of the evaporator fins unless you take the unit apart. This means you will probably have to remove and replace the refrigerant plus evaporator and the entire process could take two 8 hour days or more. Alternately, after you completely wash it out you can try placing a pan of hot water in it and run it empty. The steam will condense on the evaporator and freeze. Then defrost it . Hopefully this will wash some of the funk away. You might have to do this several times. If that doesn't work then cost wise the unit is junk. Suggest in future wrap your meats in freezer bags or other water/air tight containers in case power goes off. Monitoring your freezer is a must to catch issues before smelly spoilage can set in.

Considering you just purchased this unit, you should call the manufacture to get warranty service on it.

easiest way to do this is look at the label on the compressor. I usually lists RLA. FLA is usually 5 to 7 times the RLA. For example, if RLA is 3.0, the the FLA is 15-21 amps. FLA is actually LRA for about 2 seconds.

the switch my be a temperature monitor switch. the alarm is set to -10f to let you know that there is a temperature problem.

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