20 Most Recent Dometic 57915531 Air Conditioner - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Make sure that you are not running the unit on low fan speed. In the warmer months of the year, this will often cause the unit to freeze up due to the lack of air flow through the evaporator. If you are running on high and it is still freezing, then you possibly have a freon leak in the system. The brisk airs are notorious for the capillary tubes in the upper unit rubbing together and developing a small leak. The problem is usually where the two small tubes enter the evaporator housing. Remove the cover and pull the two small lines apart, damage should be apparent if there is any. If not, you may have developed a leak elsewhere and need to have someone check out the system.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

If it is a wall mounted thermostat, then you need to check the control box mounted on the inside of the unit. Remove the inner shroud to access. Check for power on the blue wire entering the control box from the thermostat, this is the high fan circuit. There should also be power on the orange(or tan) wire from the tstat. This is the fan circuit. Both these need to be hot with 12VDC for the fan to run on high. If you have power there, try removing the cover from the inside and access the squirrel cage (fan blade) inside the unit, turn the tstat to High fan and try starting the fan motor by hand. If it starts, then you have a bad fan capacitor. If not, check power to the fan on the top unit and all wiring leading to the fan. If you have power to the fan and it still does not run, you need a new fan motor.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

No, they are programmed differently.

Sorry

If the selector switch is broken, you need to replace that first. This will cause the fan not to come on if there is an open in it. After replacing the switch, if you still have to fan operation, it is possible that you have a bad fan capacitor, part# 1499-5461, or a bad fan motor, part# 14683099. Replace the capacitor first before spending the money on a motor. An easy way to check is to see if you can start the fan motor by hand while turning it on a the selector switch. If the motor starts this way, replace the capacitor.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

A Duo-Therm 13.5BTU Brisk Air unit will pull 14 - 16 amps on average in High/Cool mode. Depending on the ambient temperature. Since the unit is 120VAC, then we know that the unit is going to need at least 1920Watts to run. There are other things in the unit that will affect the generator as well. TV's, Microwave and Converter all pull amperage on the generator. It is safe to say that if you are using a 4000Watt Generator, then you will be fine. If it is just for the AC and nothing else, then a 2500Watt generator is more than sufficient.

Thanks,

Jeff

Steve,

The three amp fuse is installed in the board to protect from shorts or overloads created by disconnecting or reconnecting components when DC power is still connected to the system. If the fuse is blowing, then you more than likely have a short in the 12VDC system between the control unit and the thermostat.

1. Pull the cover off of thermostat and remove the +12 (or +7.5 depending on the model) wire. Access the other end of the wire in the AC compartment. Using an ohmmeter, touch the end of the wire at the AC with one lead and touch the control box with the other (or any ground source). If you get a reading other than OL or Infinity, then that wire is shorted out in the wall somewhere. If not, repeat the steps for the rest of wires except the ground of course. If all of these wires appear to be fine, you may need to take it in for some more extensive troubleshooting.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

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There are a few more things to try, in the control unit of the AC there is Cold Control/Freeze Switch. Take down the control unit (inside unit, remove inner shroud) and remove the cover, The freeze control is plugged into the blue plug on the board. Remove the plug and install a jumper wire in its place. Does the compressor come on? If so, you have a bad freeze control. If not, then we need to check and see if your AC power module is sending power to the Compressor. Check power across the relay in the control unit, Black to Blue. If the blue wire is hot, then you need to go upstairs to the top of the compressor and check the thermal overload. If the blue wire is not hot, the comfort control center may not be sending a signal to turn the compressor on. If it is not, do a reset of the CCC. For a five button system, turn the tstat off and hold down the Mode and Zone buttons simultaneously. While holding them down, turn the CCC on and hold the buttons until FF appears on the screen. Release the buttons and try the AC.
Four button reset -
Depress MODE switch to activate annunciator light.
Simultaneously depress the bottom two buttons
(temperature UP and DOWN) and hold.
While holding these buttons down, depress the
MODE button once and release.
Release the two buttons previously held down.
Depress the MODE button once again.
At this time the light should extinguish, and the mode
should register “OFF”. If not, repeat Steps 2 through
6.
Retest system ensuring that all functions are present
and operational.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

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bad capacitor or bad motor try the cap first as long as the motor turns freely if it does not then replace both standard practices good luck Tom

it sounds like the blower motor and the condensor motor are suffering from a low voltage condition, u will have to find out if this is the case by testing the voltage at the motors the next time this happens.

Contact Dometic due to part defect. Circuit board

There are 3 possible problems this could be
A blown relay
A bad thermostat
Or a bad blower motor

Since it starts when you spin it and then stays on I doubt it is the motor. Again as the machine stays on and blows out cold air I also doubt it is a relay. This only leaves the thermostat. So the thermostat is what you should replace.

You will need R-22 refrigerant. Yes you can install a sattle tap valve. The problem is that you mean the public cannot buy saddle taps or freon do to enviromenalist

Most nameplates disclose the max circuit ampacity or knowing the watt rating divided by the voltage gives you amps

a 10000 due to the startup surge. also need start kits on any ac started by a generator.

Is the compressor too hot to touch when it shuts down? This would indicate a low charge

I assume that you are a technician so you are aware of the electrical dangers of these tests. If you are not a tech, please call one.

It may be the contactor relay but first try this too.

At this point I would perform an over all amp reading between the unit and the breaker box somewhere. Make sure you take a reading at the start up, as this is when the system will pull the most amps. If the over all amps DO NOT exceed the breaker rating and the breaker still trips, I would suggest that the breaker is weak and should be replaced.

If during this test you find that the amps DO exceed the breaker ratings then I would try to look at the start run capacitor.

I was replacing a DUO-Therm 3105058 Rev A. very old Thermostat in a Coachman RV with 3106995.032 from Amazon. After looking all the information on the directions it was clear I would have to play a hit or miss on some of the wiring. Instead of using the same coding, such as RC, RH, G, Yellow and such. they used the function and I had to guess at some.Here is the wiring I found worked:There are 6 wires. One set of two wires (white On the W & red on the RH) and the set of 4 (yellow On the Y, green on the G, red on the RC and blue on the H). So to keep it simple the red on the RH went to the +7.5. The White on the W went to the FUR. HS/HP not used. the Yellow from the Y went on the cool. The green on the G went to the fan. The red on RC went to GND. and the Blue on H went to Hi fan.So red (RH) of the 2 wire goes to +7.5White (W) of the 2 wire goes to FUR.Yellow (Y) to coolGreen (G) to fanOrange or red from the RC lug goes to GNDBlue (H) goes to Hi Fan

check amp draw either bad compressor or fan motor

possible heating element bad

check compressor relay possible stuck on