20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The door switch may be bad or the timer could be broken too.

The F01 error code indicates a failed primary electronic machine control board. This can be caused by a glitch or power surge through the power lines. Try unplugging the dryer for 5 minutes and see if the code clears. If it doesn't, then you will have to replace the electronic machine control board,

Check the heating element

-There are couple things that cause a dryer not working: -Thermal fuse. -Heater element. -Timer switch. -Door switch. -start switch. -Or the motor. Check these components. Good Luck Mai

things to check door switch, belt switch , thermal fuse, power 220v and main control

3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer. The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer. The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet. In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses. Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat. A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.) A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Before assuming you have a component problem with your dryer, ask yourself this question, "When was the last time I inspected and cleaned my dryer ventilation?" If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, you may have a simple case of a dryer exhaust system that is clogged. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work properly and efficiently. If the dryer is clogged, the heating circuits actually will overheat. The result will be longer dry times, a dryer that is too hot, or eventually a dryer that fails. A simple way to determine if it IS an exhaust problem is to perform the following:

1. Pull the dryer away from the wall and remove the exhaust hose.
2. Start the dryer with a load. The air at the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F for most dryers).
3. If the air is warm, allow the clothes to dry to see if they dry efficiently like they should.
4. If they do not, or if the air flow is weak, inspect the dryer blower fan housing to make sure it is not clogged and that the fan is moving.
5. If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry just fine, reconnect the exhaust vent and check the air flow at the exhaust where it leaves your home. If the air flow is weak, I recommend cleaning the ventilation, and checking for any kinks that may be obstructing air flow.
6. If the air flow at this point is normal, and your dryer is still not operating correctly, then we may have a problem. A common problem is the wire coming off the auto dry sensor inside the dryer. The auto dry sensor bar is located inside the drum along the front. There is a connector wire that attaches to it behind the lower panel.

Inspect your dryer first and make a determination of what it is or isn't doing correctly. I would hate to recommend parts without you first doing some routine inspections. It could be that you may not need any replacemnt parts and may just be able to save yourself a service call. I hope you find this information helpful. If you need addtional assistance, please let me know.

PS It is recommended that you use the semi-rigid metal type dryer exhaust hose. It is crush resistant, heat resistant and hold up well against rodents.

There is no fuse Try turning the 30 amp breaker off and then on in case it tripped

If you have 240 VAC to the dryer, the control likely has a faulty relay for the heater. Provided all the thermal fuses (especially the one on the side of the element can) are good and the voltage supply is good, the control will likely need to be replaced and is available below. Control

Check the bellows gasket real carefully for a hole, and make sure the door gasket is good and no problems with how it fits to the front of the machine. Pull the machine out, and watch it from all angles with any covers off that can be removed without interfering with function. Run a quick rinse and see what leaks.

Yep, it's the start/run switch at the motor, can get stuck with lint after a long time. It's actually not too difficult to change, make sure you note the location of every wire. Clean everything real good with a vacuum cleaner, get all the lint dust out of the motor, etc. Cleaning may free the switch, and there should be a drawing showing how to put the belt back on, otherwise, make a drawing.

Open then front panel and see if you need to order a water pump mine has a A nail on water pump repair clince.com hope that work or go to youtube type washer don't spin

unplug it,remove the bottom panel and look at or grab the belt to se if it's snapped.