20 Most Recent Maytag Legacy Series Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

most likely the pump seal is worn

check the vent tube it may be plugged with lint. If it isn't plugged you may need to replace the heating element

I have never messed with one of these with 2 front panels but it looks to me like you remove the 2 screws at bottom like the old series and get the toe kick off first. Then remove or back off some screws at the base of the front panel and then compress the top springs to release the panel. Here are some old school pix If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I just had the same problem. The washer would stop about 2/3 through the spin cycle and not start again. Replaced the timer. That did NOT solve the problem.

Check the solenoids at the water inlet valve. They can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Test for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty solenoid and the water inlet valve assy will need to be replaced. I will attach a photo for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

I've got the same problem. The diagram is a bit deceiving because it appears to show the agitator/auger as one piece. However, the bolt only holds the agitator (lower portion) and then the auger slips in place over that. The fabric softener cup then snaps to the top of the auger.

Best I can tell is that the slotted 'ears' on top of the agitator are worn thus preventing a secure fit between the agitator and auger. I just finished putting some hard thumb pressure on each of the ears and bent them outward some. The auger fits much tighter now and I'm doing a test run of clothes. It is holding but I will probably have to replace what they describe as the agitator / auger assembly, costs $53.54. I don't see any other fix but would appreciate further input.

Thanks

I pulled the motor and pump put on a new belt and a new pump the pump was leaking on the belt

Sanfor,
If in fact the seals and bearing have gone bad the repairs can be expensive indeed.
Maytag does have a program that gives you warranty for 5 years on the transmission itself and such repairs can be counted as such.
I would check with Maytag to see what kind of reimbursment they can give you (www.maytag.com)

check idler pully

best way is to tilt it a bit (with 2x4 or something) when it starts leaking, find out whats leaking with a mirror and flash light some times hoses have tiny holes that leak,

HI, if the drain hose is OK, replace the pump. the housing is compromised.

USUALLY THE MAIN CAUSE IS THE CENTER RUBBER SEAL located at bottom of
WASHER , AND is not difficult to replace if
youre good with tools , AJ

Lint is in majority flushed out in drain cycle. make aire the tissue and match books aren't in any pockets. the lint is then deied and separated in the drier , Well so I was told . good luck

rachet device under agitator is stripped.

Under the agitator there is a rachet mechanism that works the agitator. If it is stripped, it will skip until the next good tooth.. when it fails entirely the agitater will stop going back and forth. Its nylon and age along with overloading hastens its dearg.. If you can get the parts you can replace it yourself without difficulty. There is a single bolt in the center of the agitator top . Remove and loft agiyator straight up.

do you have voltage comeing out of your wall socket? use an extension cord and see if this helps if not do you hear any humming?

Check for the tighten nut to agatator is tighten. If agatator is lose it floats up and down during the wash. There is a lock ring (rubber) on the shaft that holds the agatator on, check this, if off replace thid . If the agatator is still in good shape can still use it , if not pull of and replace it. This work is't hard to do.

hi, these are early signs of drive failure. the drive is made up of a clutch assembly and a transmission(gearbox). it also has a brake that is integrated into the drive as well. these components work together and if one or more start to malfunction, it will cause squeaking noises and slow reacting braking of the drum as well.

You will have to replace the drive and transmission soon.

Hi, Sounds like it could be timer. Does the timer advance to the off position? There could be a partial plug in the hose or pump also. You can add water again and then go to spin cycle. Lift the drain hose out of the drain pipe just enough that you can see the water flow. You should see water draining out with a bit of force and the stream should be the sizt of the drain hose.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can be of more assistance.

Thanks
Vic