20 Most Recent Maytag Performa PAV3200 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

It's stamped on the tag at the rear of the washer.

Item #
1055142 Price
$5.25 In Stock?
Yes Snubber ring, Washing Machine
Brake/bearing removal tool kit: 997909 For extreme unbalance problem this may be needed: 1164331

You have a bad Drain Pump.

to check for bad motor,open dryer door,hold in door switch and someone push in on start switch,at the sam time reach inside the dryer and turn drum clock wise,if it start's than you have a bad motor.

The clutch isn't disengaging at the end of the spin cycle. The cause is usually the controller not progressing either mechanicaly or electronicaly.

Hi,

The unit grinds and doesn't spin right ? Does it drain all the water out ?

The reason I ask about the spin is this. If hypothetically the pump had stones in it, or the bearings were worn, it would be grinding while washing (since it turns continuously, but only drains when the motor reverses) and could prevent the unit from draining sufficiently and hence, it will not spin.

**Unplug the unit from the wall**

Check the pump for obstructions, or worn bearing in the pump, you can check the pump fairly easy with the aid of a trouble light/flashlight on those, as the housing is usually transparent.

Remove the belt at the bottom. Lean the machine back against a wall or have someone steady it for you to do this. examine the pump pulley, it's the one in the rear right corner, when observing from the front. Turn it by hand and get a "feel" for if it's loose, grinding, or generally hard to turn. If you see the obstruction, pull off a hose from either the back access panel or remove the front panel, (the rear is easiest, the front gives more room) and remove the article/debris.

If that isn't the issue, let me know and we can follow up from there.

Good Luck

Everything that grinds is saying.........stop using me and find out whats wrong before you use me again.

Could be gearbox or something stuck inside the machine.

The belt probably broke.  The belt is on the bottom of the machine and if fairly easy to replace.  If it is not the belt it could also be the brake, but if this was the case you would probably be smelling burning rubber during the spin cycle.  The brake is just above the belt pulley. 

check input power for 240 volts, then check the neutral power at all terminations inside the unit for burned off conditions, then check for a bad thermal fuse,hi-limit switch,start switch, or control panel

You have sand and sediment in the sump base of tub. All you di is remove the rubber hose on the water level switch and blow out the tube with your mouth. You will feel it when the **** is out of there. Then reconnect that hose tightly to the switch and pump out any remaining water in the tub. here are some repair photos If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Sounds like it is the bearing on the water pump. Take off back plate and replace and remove 3 screws and two hoses (the one hose is a waste line so make sure you have a bucket to empty our waste water) after removing these remove belt on bottom of pump.

Sounds like the water pump is going out on it. The part runs about $80 and should only take about 45 minutes to install.

you will have to open up the panel to check where the smell comes from. It could be on the motor which may cause also a loud noise or from the electrical, loose connection or bad relay may cause a noise of a different kind.

If it's NOT a direct drive machine, then your problem is most likely with the Wig-Wag switch, located on top of the gear case! It ALWAYS goes bad and effects the Spin function

the most common problem with this can be the thermal fuse located on the microprocessor its white and has 2 wires to it

Its probably you stator plate and rotor. But you need special tools for this repair. There a spring that is under 200 pounds of pressure and if you take the screws off that hold the plate its going to fly into you face if your dont use the special tools to depress the spring. Is it more of a clanking kinda of noise? DOes it olnly happen with heavy loads? Try this out. Fill the washer with water only. and get it into a wash cycle with water only. If there is no noise then put in like a load of towels. A heavy load. Now if you hear the noise now then its for sure you stator plate and rotor..hope this helps, but like i said you need those special tools to do this repair or injury can result from the spring part.

The agitators are a pop-on fit. Make sure that the agitator is firmly seated on the shaft. Lift it up and if it moves easily adjust it to the splines on the shaft and press it back into place.

I got a new washer..problem solved