20 Most Recent Maytag Performa PAV2200 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

Now a bit of 'FixYa' added value!
Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)

If these have assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Check and make sure the belt is tight enough and the motor pulley not loose. Replace the pulley if necessary. If the belt and the pulley are installed tightly and/or the smoke is coming from the motor body or windings, replace the motor.

It drains through the holes in the plastic tub. You may hear a sloshing sound when you move the tub and this is normal. There is a solution sealed inside the tub on this unit to balance out the spin cycle.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven from the flow into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

What you would probably need is a part called a snubber which affects the balance if it is worn out.
Part number 21002026

www.youtube.com/watch?v=17MrjPFIbwo

Thank you

Your range is probably in the Sabbath mode. The error code shown on the display is"Sab", not "5ab".

Press and HOLD the clock pad for 3 seconds to disable the sabbath mode. The range will return to normal functions.

Keep us updated and remember to rate and comment this answer.

This agitator has a bolt that locks it to the transmission Pull the softener area off the machines agitator off and look inside to see if the bolt is there.I'll help you any time a problem arrises

Try turning the shaft in the agitate direction while pulling, At the same time shove the ring in. If you get it on and its too tight you can TRY a thinner washer but if the machine is noisy or doesnt spin properly there might be a problem with your transmission

the problem can be fix, it is just the pump that beings out water call ur technician

you could have a short in the safety switch for the lid, Jumper that switch and see if that helps, if so Just replace the switch

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today. It looks like since your water pressure is fine and the screens on the valve where the hoses hook up are clean you would have to replace the fill valve Part #: 22001196 Since you only gave a partial model number double check this part number but i believe this is the correct one.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.

A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.

A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.

The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.

If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.

Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.

A bad power cord also falls into this same category.

Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4312805-dryer_maintenance

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866744-dryer_not_working_dryer_not_drying

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4496386-dryer_cord_wiring_dryer_3_wire_or_4_wire

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

That machine was made by crosley it would have at the bottom stucture a snubber ring that becomes wore and reduces the tension on the 6 tub springs . That is why the machine will start to shake..The repair use putty knife there is two spring catches under the front just above front panal push knife in when you find clips top of washer should hinge up..The frount panal has two bolts down through on each side remove them.The front should lean forward and lift of the two retaining clips at the bottom. look for white power that will be signs that that snubber has wore ...If you make that assumption then we will go further on how to replace snubber ring///Note i always replace the 6 spring with the snubber ring .if not the old springs will let the tub move around and cause snubber to wear early.. If I helped you please vote if you need more help please ask ....good luck

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging. I want to thank you for reading and I hope this helps you. Best regards and thanks for reading

Most likely the tub bearing has gone bad on your washer.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(Try this!)
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my guidance notes for checking both the drain filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C