20 Most Recent Bosch 24 in. SHE44C05UC Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Remove water out of dish washer to acess the screen to clean it out in the bottom. Once it is clean you may have to remove the drain hose to clean it out.
You may be able to remove water with a shop vac or cup to get water out of washer to check it out.
Food will get in the bottom at screen or past it and lodge in right before going to pump to stop it up.

The Bosch units do have a little noisier drain pump than most other units, so if you don't hear a grinding sound it probably isn't something you would worry about, BUT if it is grinding, then it is a sign that either something got sucked into the pump or that the pump is starting to fail.

Just had the same problem, same model. Found the wiring below the front cover fried. So now I'm checking to see if anyone else had this happen.

Hello,

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control. Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described.

As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch servicer if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed.

**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**

If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hi there,

Unfortunately, it seems that the heating element has failed. The dishwasher uses steam to heat the tub to dry the dishes. I suspect your dishes are also being washed in cold water.

To check this, please run a regular full wash cycle. Allow the washer to fill with water and run for about 10 minutes, then open the door and feel the water temperature in the bottom of the washer. If the water is cold, it's more than likely the heating element has failed.

There are other possible faults which would cause the element not to heat, but these often prevent the dishwasher from completing the cycle. If the water is cold but the dishwasher still drains the water at the end - and completes the cycle - the heating element has probably failed.

Please try this simple test for water temperature and let me know if you need further assistance.

Regards,
BElectric

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I know it`s been a while since you posted, but I just saw it recently.

I know what the problem is, though you may not like it. I would still start by checking your water inlet temperature, the unit must be connected to a "hot" water supply line. Try running the hot water at your sink tap to insure the cold water is out of the lines just before you turn on the dishwasher.

That is just a suggestion out of courtesy however...

If it is what I suspect, the control, this won't make any difference but it's worth a try. If on the other hand the water is good and hot entering the machine, you likely have an issue with the control as I alluded to.

The reason your dishwasher is displaying a "1" is the control has detected a heating error. It isn't the countdown time. The error code is displayed by the number "1". Here`s the most likely reason why it has detected the error...

Even if your home water supply appears hot, it's not hot enough and must be heated by the dishwasher to insure a proper clean and dry.

The issue with your Bosch dishwasher likely lye`s within`the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). This is why it runs forever unless pressing the two buttons for "cancel".

To repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s at "1" ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water.

**Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hi,

Clear the holes in both spray arms with a tooth pick. Start a wash cycle and when the motor starts check the water level. It should be just below the heating element. Check the water temperature. It should be at least 120 degrees. Spin the spray arms to make sure they move freely. Most likely the chopper screen needs to be cleaned.If it is filling with water properly then it sounds like the chopper screen is clogged so that water isn't getting into the pump. You can remove the top of the pump housing and get to the screen and chopper blade to inspect it. Go to sears.com, click on parts and enter your model number and you can view a diagram of the pump parts to help in disassembling it. If the pump is not clogged then you have a problem with the impeller or motor. If this is the case you can replace the entire sump assembly just about as cheap as replacing individual parts of the pump.

Please accept the solution if it's helpful. Do get back to us for any further query.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

No adjustment. Try cleanig door gasket. If still leaks hinge probably got bent from leaning on door. Or door got bent. Needs to be taken apart to find cause for problem.

Hello,

Welcome to Fixya.


I can provide you with a complete service manual in a "pdf" attachment, but I`d requre a email address.

I know what the problem is, though you may not like it.

The reason your dishwasher is displaying a "1" is the control has detected a heating error as you said you`ve confirmed thru diagnostic`s.

Here`s the most likely reason why it has detected the error...

Even if your home water supply appears hot, it's not hot enough and must be heated by the dishwasher to insure a proper clean and dry.

The issue with your Bosch dishwasher likely lye`s within`the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). This is why it runs forever unless pressing the two buttons for "cancel".

To repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.


**Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hi and welcome to Fixya,

I would start by first shutting off the breaker.

Then removing the kick plate ( access panel at the bottom ) and checking the wiring at the junction box for the dishwasher 120vac supply line.

This is actually quite common to find a wire connector come loose due to improper fastening and once the unit is in use for a while the connections heat & cool, become loose from normal operating vibrations and burn up from all the added heat caused by "resistance".

The end result is no power to the controls. Check it out and post back what you find.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and please take a moment to rate the solution/suggestion provided here for you.

Good luck.

Macmarkus :)

Hello Lynne, welcome to fixya.

I know what the problem is, though you may not like it. I would still start by checking your water inlet temperature, the unit must be connected to a "hot" water supply line. Try running the hot water at your sink tap to insure the cold water is out of the lines just before you turn on the dishwasher.

That is just a suggestion out of courtesy however...

If it is what I suspect, the control, this won't make any difference but it's worth a try. If on the other hand the water is good and hot entering the machine, you likely have an issue with the control as I alluded to.

The reason your dishwasher is displaying a "1" is the control has detected a heating error. It isn't the countdown time. The error code is displayed by the number "1". Here`s the most likely reason why it has detected the error...

Even if your home water supply appears hot, it's not hot enough and must be heated by the dishwasher to insure a proper clean and dry.

The issue with your Bosch dishwasher likely lye`s within`the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). This is why it runs forever unless pressing the two buttons for "cancel".

To repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s at "1" ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water.

**Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

We just had a potentially dangerous problem with the same model. Only we found the wiring beneath the front door were fried. How do yours look?

reset unit by hitting the drain and cancel button.

drAIN AND CANCEL BUTTON WILL RESET UNIT;)

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If the cycle doesn't complete, check these:
Water-heating cycle
Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next depends, as follows:

On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time.

On others, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycle problem" is fixed too.

Timer
Timers don't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in one place--doing one function continuously--the timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.



Thanks
Rylee

you will find this link useful. also read commentts and replies following it.
http://www.squidoo.com/Bosch_Dishwasher_Drainage_Problem_Fixes

hi there,
dishwasher leaking might be due to either of these causes, check these:

Main tub seal
Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom
of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you.
But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the
entire pump and motor assembly.

The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from
leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher,
remove the:

* Lower rack
*Spray arm
* Spray arm support
* Wash/drain impellers

Then try the seal out of its housing and replace it.

Door gasket or seal
Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly.
You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.

Water-inlet valve
The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the
rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten
or repair/replace these as necessary.

The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues
to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the
dishwasher, and replace the valve.

Hoses
Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the
leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose.

Hello Hunting2000 the noise could be several things. If you heard what is water hitting against the inner door, try aranging the dishes so that the water is hitting the dishes and not the door. I assume however this isn't the noise you are talking about. Sometimes over time the wash arms themselves will start to make noise. This is from wear. Yes less than a year sounds like a short time. This could have been there from the start. I would call Bosch Customer Support and see if they will pay for a 2nd opion. This well could be the wash arms causing this. Espically the top one not sealing proper and allowing water to hit the front. Hope this helps.

difficult not seeing the valve firsthand but if you could connect a tester to the solonoid and confirm that there is power on the terminals, then you know there is an issue with the valve. typically, if you have a leak, it to will raise the float and shut off the valve.