20 Most Recent Continental Freezer Wide Freezer low temp ( 15 F) reach in 57" wide Questions & Answers

Check to condenser coil and make sure it is clean and the fan near it is running when the compressor is on. Check for ice build up in the freezer. If the evaporator coil is iced up the box will run warm. It may be a defrost problem, a dirty condenser, or a refrigerant issue.

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

http://www.continentalrefrigerator.com/operations.html
Start with this web site. Has lots of manuals.
Hope this helps.

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.
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All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Yes

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

Hey. I dont suppose you figured out where the wires went all all? I've done the same thing ????

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..

Is it on Economy Mode? That only chills the bottom area. Check the condenser fins are cleaned of dust. That needs doing every 6 months. Or it needs refrigerant gas. ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Star Computers. Greetings from Toronto! It is made by Midea and sold to Walmart as a batch, "make us 10,000 at $100 each. We will sell for $280 until they are gone". All the retailers are out of stock including Amazon and Wilson's Home Store. Choose another make and model, bottom of this page. Home Depot, Leon's or The Brick are a good bet for Freezers. https://www.dontwasteyourmoney.com/products/arctic-king-arc070s0arbb-7-cubic-feet-chest-deep-freezer/

There is normally a drain plug on the lower rear or sides. You probably have leaking door gasket. https://www.google.com/search?q=norfrost+aura+chest+freezer+drain+hole+location ..

There appears to have been a serious electrical problem in the freezer, possibly involving a short circuit or a broken part.it's best to contact a professional appliance repair technician

If your Traulsen 31300 freezer is cooling down to 28°F but not going below that temperature, and the compressor runs continuously except during the defrost cycle, there are a few tests you can perform to help diagnose the issue before considering replacing the expansion valve. Here are some steps to follow: 1. Check Airflow: Ensure that the airflow inside the freezer is not obstructed by any items or ice buildup. Verify that the evaporator coil is clean and not blocked. Poor airflow can lead to inadequate cooling. 2. Temperature Control Setting: Confirm that the temperature control setting on the freezer is correctly set to the desired temperature. Make sure it is not accidentally set too high or too low. 3. Condenser Coil Cleaning: Clean the condenser coils located either at the back or underneath the unit. Dust and debris accumulation on the coils can reduce cooling efficiency. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or debris. 4. Condenser Fan Operation: Check if the condenser fan is running properly. The condenser fan helps dissipate heat from the system. Ensure it is spinning freely and not obstructed. If it's not working, it may need to be replaced. 5. Check for Refrigerant Leaks: Perform a thorough inspection of the refrigerant lines and connections for any signs of leaks, such as oil spots, bubbles, or hissing sounds. If a refrigerant leak is suspected, it could be affecting the cooling performance, and repairing the leak and recharging the system may be necessary. 6. Pressure and Temperature Readings: To determine if the expansion valve is the culprit, you may need to take pressure and temperature readings at different points in the refrigeration system using specialized equipment. These readings can help identify any irregularities or inefficiencies in the system. 7. Consult with a Professional: If you're unsure about performing these tests or interpreting the results, it is recommended to seek assistance from a professional refrigeration technician. They will have the expertise and necessary tools to accurately diagnose the issue and provide appropriate solutions. By conducting these tests and inspections, you can gather more information to make an informed decision about replacing the expansion valve or pursuing other potential causes for the inadequate cooling.