20 Most Recent Maytag MAH6500 Neptune Front Loading Washer w/Built in Water Heater - Page 5 Questions & Answers

replace the valve

it overheated... turn it off, wait 10 minutes and take out some clothes

Sounds like your bearings have gone in the back of the drum and damaged your water seal. the clay type substance is possibly water mixed with grease.

rear bearing problem buy new one when you cant stand noise

parts are about 200 and 3-5 hrs lbr maytag charges 500-600 to repair. good luck

sound like the drain line is plugged or kinked. Inspect drain hose

look under the soap dispensor at the front edge you should see a green plastic wire that unlocks the door

F50 - Fill Cycle / error on level switch I beleive

there are several reasons why your machine won't spin. review this list and discover the specific reason you are seeing
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
  
  
• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  
• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
  
  
• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
  
  
• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
  
  
• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
  
  
• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

one way to "assure this is the issue" is to remv ethe 3 screws holding the back panel on. tip the back control panel down and have a look at eh circuit board.. approx 2/3 to the left and somewhat in the middle of the control board you see a small light blue box mounted to the circuit board, just above that "box" is a small resistor that tends to "blow up" and its quite evident just fromlookin at it.. if this is the case , you def need the board and wax motor.

Hi Kathy. Let's try to go through this step by step. Is there water pressure in the pipes leading to the machine? You might be able to check this if there is another appliance on the same pipework. If, say, a dishwasher next to the washing machine works OK then the problem lies in the washing machine.
No there is no water there either - then maybe a valve in the pipework has been clogged up with grit from the water supply. This can happen if the water supply company has being carrying out maintenance nearby. Closing and opening the valves in the line can often clear this kind of blockage.
Yes there is water pressure - then check for a kink in the hose leading to the machine.
OK there? Disconnect the machine from the power socket, turn off the water supply to the machine and disconnect the supply hose(s) at the machine. Check the little gauze filter where the pipe(s) go into the machine and clear them of any build-up of grit. If there is a blockage visible it would be a good idea to turn the water back on a little and run the hose into a bucket to get rid of grit in the flexible hoses.
OK there too? Maybe the electrically operated inlet valve itself is jammed shut. When you turn on the power to the machine and start a wash cycle you should hear a click as the valve opens. If you don't, the inlet valve could be clogged up or broken, or an electrical connection may have come off through vibration. If this is the case you may need to get an engineer to investigate the matter.
I hope this helps - if not please give further details if you can and I'll try to think of something else :-)

Hi,

One suggestion is to Check out the motor control board near the floor on the right side. These have a high failure rate on the Neptunes. Maytag redesigned both the motor and motor control board to be more reliable. While inspecting this board, you are looking for a blown 10 amp fuse and /or burnt components. If you have either... then you will need the the new 12002039 motor conversion kit which includes the motor, motor control board and the wire harness.

See http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page667.htm.

This kit takes about an hour to install.
Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor.


Hope this helps,

Thanks.

This worked for me for the E3 error code: Turn the machine off and then on. Enter the Service Mode by pressing the Chime and Exrta Rinse keys for 3 sec. Display the Diagnostic Codes by pressing the Rinse and Spin key. Clear the codes by pressing the Delay and Chime keys for 3 sec. Turn the machine off, unplug and plug in the power cord. This dumps the memory. Evidently, if it gets full, it causes problems with the programming and messes up the cycles.

I will try to explain open the door remove the screws that hold the door on lift up on the door it should come off now remove the other two screws on the other side of the door two white clips should come off now grab the top of the front panel and pull it out now you will see insides remove 2 screws that hold the clip that hold the lid down make sure you undo the screws in the dispencer before lifting the lid goood luck

I have a Maytag neptune mah8700aww
With mine the large grey rubber seal that seals at door slipped off! When this happens if you do not put back on correctly it will leak or even poor out the front center bottom of the door! My husband fixed it. But it still leaked really bad! I just took a couple of min. to refit the seal and it does not leak at all now! maybe your seal is not placed around the edge correctly! as it is easy to place it wrong! good luck!! keep my email address if I was helpfull!! We can always share problems and solutions for our neptunes in the future ! good luck
Anne Marie

A common problem with the Neptune's and noise during the spin cycle happens when the bearings have gone out on the tub. Same problem I had. Replaced the bearings myself after ordering the parts and haven't had the noise since. It's back to working perfectly. Would only recommend you replace them if you're fairly mechanicaly inclined...it's a process but doable. Otherwise, call a service tech but be warned, they wanted to charge me $500...or I could buy a new tube with the bearing already installed for $800. Either way, isn't very cost effective depending on the age of the machine. If you know someone that's handy, there's tons of information on the web. I bought my parts from a guy on eBay and he included a service manual for my Neptune for free.

In the state of New Jersey there is an appliance store called abbot appliance parts. Call with make, model #, and serial # and they will help you. The phone # is (732) 244-2040 and the web site is http://www.manta.com/coms2/dnbcompany_dqpq2f I hope this helps. Don,t forget to rate my answer. Thanks.

This is joyce

I have advice for you check the siphon cap to see if its twisted reposition cap.

thanks
joyce

This is joyce

first lets start simple unplug the machine and leave unpluged for 1 min. replug back, see if this solves the problem.

thanks,



joyce

YOU CAN EITHER CONTROL THE LEVELS ON YOUR WASHER BY LOAD SIZE small=less water in the machine, or you can turn your water valves on clockwise

3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out. a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag (now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23 months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high markups).
If you want pictures write me at [email protected]
also in my model I found the troubleshooting guide in the bottom front kick plate. It is a plastic piece you will have to insert a screwdriver into and "pop" off. This will show you how to enter the "secret" trouble shooting codes into the front control panel. And a definition of exactly what 3E means.