20 Most Recent Maytag SAV515DE Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

save your money this is one major lemon, bearing goes bad in all of these pos

My Maytag washer model #:sav515deww is leaking underneath during the spin cycle. I took off the 2 front panels. I have been told taht it is a bearing and a seal that are out. Replacement parts cost approx $90.00. Unit is 5 years old. Is it hard to fix? Thanks

Probably just the belt. You can unplug it, and then take the back cover off and turn the large pulley by hand. If it turns smoothly it's just the belt.

there could be 2 things that i know of
first one is that someone bended the door to much and the joint's are eather lose or out of place
the second thing is that the door sealing rubber is out of place, you need to putt it back to place

Nothing to it. No tools needed. Just tip the washer back and place the belt on the pulleys. The motor is spring loaded place the belt on the pump and motor first then ease the belt around the main pulley. Have a MANUAL If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This machine has two removable front panels. At the bottom of the unit are two (2) 10mm bolts. Removing these bolts will give you access to the working parts since this is an inspection plate, The upper panel : There are two (2) 10mm bolts located at the bottom corners. Remove these bolts, pull the bottom of the panel toward you to release the top latches. This will give you full access to see where the water is coming from. I suspect a leaking pump but cannot rule out a bad tub seal.

Try this. Run the machine set for full load, short wash. DO NOT put clothes or detergeants in the tub. Water only. Let the machine agitate for 1-2 minutes. Gently advance the timer manually untill it locks into spin. Let the machine continue to spin until it stops on its' own and begins to refill. At this point lift the lid and see if there is any access water in the tub.

Most of the time this condition is caused by a blackage in the drain line. Make sure the drain hose is not kinked in any way.

Also, there are times when I've had to removes socks and other objects from the tub to pump hose. It only take a 10% block to cause the machine to retain water.

If it leaks during drain or spin cycle, it means that your exit hose has come loose or has a break. This can be replaced easily.............

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+MVW7232HW0+top+load%2C+error+codes+and+condensation+on+control+panel ..

Troubleshooting chart-

https://machinecompanion.com/maytag-neptune-washer-not-draining/

The label should be at the back where the power goes in. The label is supposed to be not able to be removed (strong adhesive or metal and riveted. There may also be a service manual and wiring diagram in the top console. Pictures and mentions here, but no model details. You could also try emailing Maytag. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+ensignia+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles You can upload pictures, but we know what the machine is because of your excellent description. After more searching it may be MDE4806AYW although it says 12 cycles? https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+%22ensignia%22+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles+manual ..

I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>> So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced. From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail. Helpful? Good luck on your troubleshooting!

Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.

Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.

Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.

Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.

Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.

Could be as the spin starts it overloads the fuse ..... not sure without more information though.

Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked. I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day. Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet! ..

If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.