20 Most Recent Maytag Atlantis MAV6451 Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

try putting on a new belt is the drain hose kinked or clogged

either motor or pump.
Clean filter first and if that does not help check the transmission
HERE you can find drawing and parts

There is a small white micro switch mounted near the lid switch. This is a called a check switch. Replace it. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check and make sure the seal at the bottom of the washer is not wore out. Alot of times you will get grease from the bearins and drum assembly if this wears out.

sounds like you have a blown fuse. I dont have a schematic so I dont kno where you have to look to find it

I had the same problem.  Try this:  The top of the washing machine has a rear cover that protects the rotary switch, should be 6 screws holding the panel on.  Directly behind the switch that allows you to set the spin cycle is of course the the switch.  The very top of the switch has a clip on/snap on wiring harness.  Make sure the machine is unplug while you are performing any of this.  Make sure the wiring harness is completely snapped in to the switch.  Over time your machine causes the harness to get loose.  Specifically when you overload the machine and is unbalanced during the Spin Cycle. If you are not comfortable with this process see professional help.
I hope this helps you.
Andy

sounds like the brakes squeal to me is that the end of the cycle if it is i would worry about it brakes do that not worth the effort of dealing with

how to replace the Maytag belt at this location
http://www.repair-help.com/kb/index.php?article=187

Diagrams and belt orders here http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

Well this means your motor is fried.
if it is more than 8 years old it is not worth putting good money into it. time to replace.

How old is the washer ?


Here is an interesting report I just read!!!!!!!!!!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old washer

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your washer,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your washer is under warranty or less than four years old ,
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that washers under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your washer is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive washer
eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of washers you replace are likely to end up in a landfill.


Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!

Please do not forget to give a rating before you sign off!

You have an intermittant lid switch.

IF water is not going in the drum It sounds like the water valve coil has finally failled , It has been blowing fuses ,because the ccoil on the water valve was getting weak . change this water valve and you sohould be ok , but before doing so chaeck to see if you have the proper voltage going to this valve when It is calling to open ,if the power is there and the water is turned on the valve should be letting water in the machine . you can also take a ohm meater and check the valve for proper resistance . . If the machine is up in years I would change this valve . from the chack I mentioned earlier . hope this helps you

I had the same problem with mine a couple of years ago and it ended up being the transmission was shot. Apparently this is a common problem with this washer. Google it and see.

Check if the lid switch is working. If not see the solution proposed on this blog.

JC, sounds like the lid switch, check this first and post back..Catriver

hello are you washing new items new items tend to create more lint within the first few washes check all pockets to see if there is anything left in them there maybe to much wash action for the size and type of load try selecting a less aggressive wash cycle

hi thanks for the question when in spin cycle does the motor run. if not the lid switch is the problem if the motor does run. it should spin thanks the appliance doc

moste likely it is a 10A fuse which is blown
Please check following link and see the wiring diagram.
HERE fo wiring diagram
HERE for part number of fuse (nr4) and able to order it

your saying that pulling the timer knob out, which normally starts dryer, does nothing. however if you pull out and apply pressure upwards on knob and touch nothing else, the dryer will start??? if the thats the case sounds like a short in the timer mechanism , youll need to replace the timer assy

I had the same problem and I fixed it fairly easily in about 45 minutes:

The root-cause is the incredibly stupid design of the plastic ring that snaps over the plastic wash tub. It is filled with many nooks and crannies that rarely contact the wash water, thus getting scummed up and moldy. See a picture of the gross mess here: http://www.falselaborblog.com/2008/08/moldy-maytag.html

The fix involves opening the top (easy) and removing the ring (fairly easy) and can be done yourself if you are the least bit handy.

Unplug the unit.

***If you are mold-sensitive, wear gloves and breathing apparatus or have someone do this for you.***

Tape the lid shut so it doesn't flop open when you raise the lid.

Use a putty knife to push into the front seam about 1 1/2 inch from each corner. This unlocks the top and it will open just like the hood on a car. Carefully secure this in the open position and don't let it fall on your head or your hands.

You will see plastic fasteners holding the top ring around the outer plastic wash tub. These will unsnap (you may need a flat-head screwdriver for some of them).

Carefully lift this out and try not to puke when you look at the underside (see photo http://www.falselaborblog.com/2008/08/moldy-maytag.html). Take it to a laundry tub or bathtub and thoroughly clean it by scrubbing with hot water, detergent and bleach.

Before replacing the ring, use a thin brush to clean between the upper part of the wash tub and drum---the scum and mold will be in here also.

Replace the ring in the reverse of the above steps.

Prevention: There is none. You will have to do this every 4 to 6 months to prevent mold from infesting all of your clothing, etc.

I'm experimenting with limiting wash load size to "large" and never using "super", reserving the "super" setting for running periodic (hot water + Clorox) to see if it reaches the idiotic upper ring and keeps it clean. I am not hopeful that this will eliminate the need for these overhauls.

P.S.: The person that designed this washer should have all of his/her underwear and bed linens washed in an uncleaned Maytag Atlantis for life.