20 Most Recent Maytag Atlantis MAV9750A Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Drill small plug holes to let the washer set on the concrete

Yes there is a small motor just like in most wall clocks the gears strip or the gear bushing slips and refuses to advance the dial.
you have to replace the whole timer unless you know MacGyver microsurgery

This model has a known issue with a poorly designed drain pump that will need to be replaced. Here is the pump to order.

Hi

First make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump assembly located inside the bottom of the unit, after this test the lid switch assembly, you jump it to test it. If the lid switch is also fine then the control board should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

I suspect the thrust bearing kit is bad. This comes with great instructions and is easily replaced. I would recommend changing this before replacing the machine. You are not out much if it does not work, but I am confident you will get it going by replacing this! This is a VERY common problem with these washers and the new kit has been redesigned.

Kelly

Your discharge hose is leaking. Check the hose itself, of course (for hoses), but the problem is most likely a loose connection of the discharge hose to the discharge outlet.To inspect these items, you'll need to remove the back cover of the unit(typically 11/32-in nutdriver), and follow the discharge hose to the discharge outlet. You may find that the hose clamp needs to be replaced, or that theend of the hose is deteriorated, and needs to be cut off an inch shorter, and the hose clamp re-applied.

There can be several causes, the drum off balance would cause the shavings during spin cycle , balance could be one of the the balancing mechanism failed and not running could be the balance sensor shutting down the spin cycle. You should start by checking the balance shocks .

Hi,

It will come out low, in the back.

Best regards, --W/D--

Hi gmallard, it doesn't have a lint collector. This machine is a piece of junk. We're going out today to buy a new one after years of brushing down our clothes with lint brushes. I'll put the Maytag in the shed to wash my dogs pillows etc. (about all it's good for)

Your lid switch is bad. There is a kit for this washer to fix that, part number 12001908.

george first thing i would do is have the receptical replaced old recepticals have a tendicy to get hot and fail also go to the electrical panel and turn the breaker fully of then on older breakers tend to get stuck when they get old sometimes they dont trip but they dont supply the correct amperage either good luck

To replace the snubber and brake assembly on your Maytag washer, just follow these steps:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where a brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

However, I had a suggestion from someone I had helped in the past that provided this brilliant idea to save money instead of purchasing the brake release tool:

"I removed the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replaced them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts were removed, I backed out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the break and the break stator housing, I again use the 2" long machine screws to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, I replaced the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts." Tip courtesy of rrdumas53.

If you have questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope you find these instructions helpful.