Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Methinks you could do with a manual- for now and probably later!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
(Noe- no promises but in the meantime try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning. (If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor especially if it is not spinning. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
The issue is with the belt that is bad and should be
replaced. It is either broken, worn out or loose. Hope this helps...please post
back for further assistance.
The problem
is either with the belt that is worn out or broken and needs replacement. If
the smoke is coming from the bottom part of the washer then it is the motor
that is bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other
questions.
This is joyce
He is right the Jets are probl stoped up with mold,
you need to take drawer out look to top of machine where water comes into drawer to dispense to your detergetnt, and see if their is mold, if so take squirt bottel full of bleach and squirt it up on the mold and let sit a while and then take tooth brush and scrub off as good as possible, run one cup bleach in machine with out any clothes . on hot cycle. do this 2 times see if this helps .
let me know. it can only help cant hurt.
willl make machine smell better, and never shut door to front loader completly shut, it needs air to dry or else it will mold.
thanks
joyce
you can check the shocks to see if one broke but most likely the crosspiece in the rear of the tub is broken.using to much detergent can damage it and overloading the washer doesn't help.the extra detergent eats at the metal and the part discintegrates and then there's no support in the rear of the tub and the tub bangs around.the part is like two to two hundred and fifty dollars and that's not including labor,most likely it's time for a new washer.
YouTube - Kenmore front load bearing 18 months and kaput! you can check this video out and see if this is what's happening to you,the crosspiece and spider gear are basicly the same part just a different name so i think they talk about the spider gear in the video.sorry about the info and good luck,watch the video that comes with your new washer,it will tell you how much detergent to use and make sure it's the H.E. detergent
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
You should be able to have the brackets changed and the door mechanism adjusted. The washer is lacking a good earth return for you to be getting small electric shocks. Both should be easy to be fixed, the first by an engineer but the second will possibly need an electrician UNLESS the engineer finds that the bad earth is inside the machine and fixes it;-0)
Good luck,
John C
Please advise me on any recalls and technical information involving error code 3E during a wash load, which appears related to be a faulty control panel. My machine is always shutting down each time it reaches the rinse cycle. Numerous consumers have been complaining about this same model at consumeraffairs.com. Replacement of the control panel is expensive at an average cost of 298 dollars and appears to be the corrective action for other consumers with error code 3E. Over current is not being detected at the motor. I'm disappointed with the quality of this washer considering I purchased it in 2005 for over 1,000 dollars. This problem has forced me to use a local laundry mat to wash my clothes. This error code is not listed in the User manual.
Here is a video on replacing the typical lifter CLICK HERE
However - it appears in the parts breakdown HERE that this machine's lifters are held in place with a screw on the opposite side of the drum!
(#20 & #15)
This is not an easy DIY project - as the top must be lifter in order to access the opposite side of the drum and replace the lifter (aka drum baffle) CLICK HERE
Look for the service manual behind the kick panel of the unit. There should be a reference in it on accessing the drum and changing the baffle.
Error od means that the door has not been opened after two
complete wash cycles.....the issue can also be with the door switch going bad and
should be replaced. This error also occurs when the door switch was not seen
open since the last two final spins. If you want you can either replace the
door switch or the door switch-lock assembly to solve this issue. Hope this
helps...please post back for further assistance.
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Definitely there's a leak and it is likely coming from the drain pump which seems not draining properly as water remains in the tub at the end of the cycle. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel and check the drain pump for leaks including the hoses particularly the tub-to-pump hose.
Other possible source of the leak is the dispenser hose and/or the door gasket. Disconnect power then remove the screws from washer back.
Slide the top cover towards the rear to clear the screw head from flange on the bottom side of the top cover.
Pull
the dispenser drawer out then remove the screws attaching the
console as shown. Roll the console down and lift it away from washer.
Open the door then loosen the door gasket fastener and remove it. Pull
the door gasket from the lip formed into the front opening.
Remove the screws attaching the top of the front panel to the cabinet.
Lean the front panel forward then disconnect the wire harness to the door lock and switch assembly.
Lift the front panel off the bottom brackets and move it out of the way.
You can now fully inspect the machine for leaks.
Let
us know if you need further advice. Please accept
the solution should you find it helpful and informative. Accepting the
solution will not stop you from communicating with the expert. You can
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regarding the issue stated herein.
