20 Most Recent Maytag MAH8700A Front Load Washer - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Hi.

That means that the drain hose is blocked.

check first the drain hose at the back, see if it is free, and ensure it is not kinked.

If that does not fix the problem you will need to access the drain pump, undo the drain pump hose, and remove blockage in there.

The drain pump is located at the bottom side, toward the bottom of the machine. The pump is accessed opening the service panel at the back of the machine.

Once pump is located disconnect the drain hose from pump and remove blockage.
Keep a container ready to collect water when you undo the pump.

Appliance must be disconnected from power before starting.

Pump is part number 15 on the diagram below, please click on the picture to enlarge:



If there is no blockage, then it can be a defective pump, a wiring problem, or a defective pressure switch. Usually unclogging the hose will fix the problem.


Regards.

The code L supposedly points to the door lock, see if the door lock loop is not bent or broken

ND means no drain. You can remove the back panel to access the drain pump. Remove the hoses fron the drain pump and remove the clog. Watch out water will drain out when removing the hoses. hope this helps....

Hi,

It would seem that the door lock has failed.
Turn off the mains
You need to take off the top
Push the drum towards the back of the machine and look down toward the door lock.
You may just be able to see the latch of the door sticking through the lock.
You will need to "jiggle" the latch and or the lock to get the lock to release.
It can be fiddly because there isnt a lot of room
Once its released you will have to replace the lock. Hopefully you wont have broken the latch.
Let me know, if need further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

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Hi,

This is a Common problem in Maytag Front Loaders. Check Timer and replace it of faulty. Unless you need to replace Control Board.

it might cost you around $200.

Hope i helped you.

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assuming it is a front loader. Check if transport bolts are not still attatched. If not, open back cover and look for shocks for breakage or being siszed. Do you have a noise from the drum while spinning and having no load. If so, the bearings need to be replaced.

Yes, the drain pump is accessed from the rear. The link below will allow you to download the service manual for a similar machine. Page 35 refers to pump servicing. Good Luck

MAH9700 Service Manual

During the spin cycle if your cloths are too heavy on one side you will get this problem, reposition the cloths and it should cure the problem, at least thats what I do when my machine gets to shaking.

You need to ballence your load's. Run heavy itims such as towels and jeans together and lighter itims together also.

When the door finally unlocks run bleach and hot water through a load and then use only 2 Tablespoons of HE detergent. No matter what. You are either using too much soap or your not using HE detergent.

Hi,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
  
  
• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  
• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
  
  
• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
  
  
• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
  
  
• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
  
  
• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
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“E3” code – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Possible causes of ‘E3’ codes: 1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause. 2. Hall Sensor fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.

3. A poor connection – Check wire harness connector to motor. Unplug connector and pull on each wire. If a wire connector comes loose from the plug, bend locking tab up

NOTE: If a locking tab is not properly seated in the plug connector, the terminals will not fully engage as the connector is plugged into the Motor Terminal Block. Inspect the terminals on the motor side of the connector. Straighten any bent terminals if they exist. Recheck the harness side of the terminal block if any bent terminals are found. Bent terminals can indicate a problem with the locking tab inside the plug

Reconnect harness plug to Motor Terminal Block. Run washer through a quick service cycle (wash and spin) to check motor operation.
see if that helps..... else u might have to replace the board....

the manufacturers number for ur model is 34001496

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have a nice day

you most likely have a problem with your timer. This is typically a job for a technician who will have the special tools required.

that said, the old fashioned method is to toss the fabric softener into the tub during the rinse cycle.

does it sound like it wants to drain?
if the pump does run. you would have to remove the pump and clean it out. its possible that the impellars on the pump could be broken, meaning you would need a new pump. but usually its change, or small objects jammed in the pump impellar.

Slow down the water flow from the tap( Turn the tap on by about 1 or 2 turns). I have the same problem. the dispenser system cann't handle the volume supplied by the house system.

Torn door gasket.

follow the discharge hose into the washer body --- the trap will be at the housing the hose connects to --- not a big job. be sure to unplug the machine and hand bail the standing water out of the basket. keep a sponge and rags with a pail for the water in the trap and hose. no special tools, but it will be metric