Top 10 Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Remove the door hinges and plastic covers on the unused hinge screw holes on the opposite side of the door opening (door is reversable, so there are places to mount hinges left and right). Front panel will now snap out at top and lift off lower spring clips. One screw on each side will now release top panel and it will hinge up. Prop up with broom handle or something. Now you can get at everthing. Rubber gasket is held onto drum with a cable loop and very strong spring. It rolls off the lip easily to disassemble but is VERY difficult to get back on without special tools or at least two people. We used strong vice grips and much struggling and sweat, and #@*&%!&@ and finally got it on without damage to the new gasket. Door side of rubber gasket is easy in comparison with rubber tabs inserted into slots and working the gasket into a groove. Hose clamp at bottom of rubber gasket to connect drain hose.

Need to see a picture of how to take off the front loader

My Maytag Neptune MAH5500B or MAH5500BWW wouldn't spin either. It would go all the way through the wash cycle, agitation and all, as mentioned before, the spin cycle would start at the 9 minute mark, and get down to the 7 minutes then drop directly to 0 with no spin at all.

After hours of investigation it turned out the balance load switch was corroded. This switch is accessible through the front panel of the washer. The door must be removed and the front panel comes off, this switch is directly under the wash drum where there is a little electrical plug and switch which rests on top of stabilizer styrofoam. The connection was being made but there was green corrosion, and evidently the switch box was corroded within. When bypassed, the washer spun perfectly.

Hope this helps someone else out there - I was horrified to think that this washer would end up more landfill as it wouldn't be worthwhile to pay hundreds for a new motor control board as had been suggested was the problem.

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





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The comment posted 14 may 2009 it what helped me. DO NOT PRY OPEN the door. Find the release cord inside the soap dispenser,,,you may have to remove the 4 screws and lift it from the washer like i did. I had to lean into the door and pull the cord to release the lock. It was not a system error. The washer was over loaded and although the door was closed and locked...the load pushed the door enough to indicate that it was open and would not wash. After opening the door, rearranging the load and removing some, the door closed and latched locked and was able to continue with the wash. DO NOT PRY OPEN,,,use the cord release first,,,this worked for me.

its probebly the main bearing. disconect the power and remove the back. then slide the belt off the big pulley. if you see alot of brown splatter you know its the bearing.if not with the belt removed go to the front and open the door spin the drum fast, if it makes the same noise its the rear bearing.

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try unplugging the motor then put onto spin it will pump out ok and run othewise spin if all else is fine ,next reconnect the motor if it trips again then motor ' fault; repair /replace.

Hi


Error code PF means power failure. This happens when there is a power surge or the washer is unplugged manually. To reset this error you'll need to turn off the washer and unplug it for 10 minutes. Restart the washer and check, If the error still appears then pressing the Spin Speed key will begin the Board Output Test. This test turns ‘ON’ a specified output after a key press. Pressing the Spin Speed key again cancels the test. Please post back for further assistance if required.

Daniel

what happen if i changed both valves and still get nf code

Unhook the water hoses at the wall and check to make sure the screens are free of debris. The pump is easy to access via the back panel--just two screws. There are blogs available that tell you how to check and replace the pump if necessary. Read all of them before you start. It is often the culprit. Good luck.