20 Most Recent Maytag MDG9206 Dryer Questions & Answers

I would replace the door switch since that was the start of your problem. I seriuos dobt two items went bad at one time

Sounds like a clogged vent. If you let it run for a few minutes after it shuts off, it will come back on. Your overtemp. thermostat doesn't allow it to work, because the hot air is not being sucked in. But to answer your question, not the coils for sure in my opinion. When coils fail, it won't turn on after 10 min of running or more. Not right away.
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Hello, Your problem is going to be with light sensor. This is mounted on the side of the burner tube. To make sure this is the problem,pull off the wires and with a ohms meter test the terminals on the flame sensor. They should read infinite...if you get no reading replace the sensor. If the flame sensor reads infinite then your problem is with the ig-niter. Even though it glows it has to draw 3.5 amps to open the gas valve. If it's glowing orange it's bad it should be glowing yellow. If you have any other questions of concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike

most common causes of a noisy dryer are bad drum support rollers, a bad idler pulley or a bad blower wheel

Sounds like a Frigidaire. Is that right? If so then it will be one of 2 things...the most likely thing is the bearing in the back behind the drum or the glides that the drum rides on in the front.

Does the drum turn smoothly, or does it bounce around? If it bounces, it could be the bearings in the drum wheels going out. The wheels would need to be replaced ($20 on up).

the valve body is the problem there is a one way valve inside it if thois fails the gas will not flow to your burner. this is a prevention feature it's design is to keep back pressure to insure a flame doesn't travel back through to the source and cause an explosion.the valve body will have an intergrated regulater so replace the whole valve assembly and it should take care of the problem

basscat, you first remove the door by removing the screws from the hinges. The door will lift up a litte and pull off. Next remove the spacers on the other side. Now the front panel will pull out from the top. There will be two 1/4 inch screws with latches on each side of the frame, remove these and the top will lift up. Now by holding the door switch and starting the dryer, you will be able to see what is banging. Once you determine that, you can remove the bulk-head, should be 4 screws, be sure to unplug the door switch. Unfasten the belt, remember the configuration and remove the drum. You are now able to get at the insides. Catriver..post back.

THE BUZZER WON'T SHUT OFF ON MY MAYTAG ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running. 1 answer · Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ... ..

bad start up capacitor for motor

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc Category. F01 is a very straight forward error and it means that your dryer has detected a short in the main relay power control board mounted to the left side wall under the top panel of the dryer. Oct 19, 2018

Our Maytag 5000 series dryer is showing an F01 error code.

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair

F01 - Error Code - Dryer

Maytag https://producthelp.maytag.com > ... > Starts with F Dec 14, 2019 - Possible Solutions. Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute. Power unit up by turning on the circuit . ..

most likely has hot surface ignitor, does not have free standing pilot.

what is the model number? free standing pilots have been gone for several years. Google your model number and include parts. This will give you sites that sell parts. You most likely have and hot surface ignitor.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=the+electrical+capacity+of+Maytag+MDG9700BWW%3F Then check related searches MOTOR: 1/4HP,120 volt,60 Hz,single-phase,thermally protected against overload,auto-reset. EXHAUST:Use a minimum of 4"(10.2 cm) diameter rigid aluminum or galvanized steel duct. Never use plastic,nonmetal or combustible duct. HEAT SOURCE/ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS: Electric model- 5,300 watt nichrome helix coil; 240 volt,AC,60 Hz; 30 amp fuse. Gas model-Single port burner with automatic electric ignition; 22,000 BTU/hr. 15 amp fuse. Self-adjusting valve automatically compensates for variation in gas pressure. WEIGHTS (Crated/Uncrated):

The F70 indicates a communication error code between the main control on the top left and the user interface on the front. Unplug the machine and remove the top. Check the connection on the board in the white plastic housing on the top left. Next check the connections on the board on the front.

Contact maytag repair dept! Hope this helps should be a contact number on the back!

Question edited for clarity. The wiring is here https://www.partselect.com/Models/PDET910AYW/Sections/WIRING-INFORMATION/?ModelID=177232&ModelNum=PDET910AYW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=59105&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=6 https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+performa+pdet910ayw+wiring+diagram .. The video, may be of help

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.