20 Most Recent Maytag MDE6000 Dryer Questions & Answers

Probably due to a bad blower wheel. The wheels on these are made of plastic. Over time the wobble out and don't blow enough air. Home movie of repair: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi emmanuelbrut...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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To see parts and a breakdown of your dryer go to the following webpage.
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=mde6000ayw&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1

Hi

The squeaking sound usually comes when the belt is either broken or loose and should be replaced. Please check this video if you want to do it youself:

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi nicksue182...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers are in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if you have to.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer by removing two screws located on either side of the top of the dryer housing and unplug the door switch.
This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil, or a light lubricant like Vaseline.
Reassemble the dryer.
Plug back into your electrical receptical.
This should solve your noise problem.
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Hi godinae...
If you hear you motor running then it sounds like you have a broken drum belt...you will need to replace it or have it replaced.
If you do not hear the motor running then it could be the motor or control panel if you have one.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,

If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about DryerMaintenance

heatman101

Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
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the heating coil needs fixing you can fix it yourself but try a repair man first allot of them come too your home and fix them so choose your repair guy wisely...

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

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Sounds like the motor has gone bad...


There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi,
The buzzing means that the motor is getting power but is not turning...
You will need to replace the motor...

Here is a tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

heatman101

It sounds to me like the motor is not turning, but the heating element is coming on. with no air flowing over the element, it is getting too hot. Can you operate the start switch with the top tilted up so you can see if the motor is turning but the drum is not, and just where the buzzing is coming from. Also, I would try the dryer on manual setting and on air dry to see if any setting works. Good luck

Good day. Ugly problem.
My first choice would have been the motor, but.......
Here is the process, it might help you.
The power to the motor goes first to and thru the door switch. It then returns to the timer.
When the timer is turned to any running position, power leaves the timer where it is split into 2 leads.

One of the power leads goes directly to the centrifugal switch Which is the switch on the motor with all the wires. If you spin the drum, you also spin the motor, and if spun fast enough will close the contacts on the cetrifugal switch, thus sending power to the motor, allowing it to run. I guess you have done that.

The second lead out of the timer goes to the push to start switch, it then leaves and goes to the centrifugal switch but on the power side, so it is directly connected to the main winding in the motor.
That is why when you press the press to start switch, the motor runs, and if held in it will continue to run.
In fact, at this point, the motor had 2 sources of power, either of which can run the motor.
Thus releasing the push to start switch doesn't matter, since it runs off the other source.

Possibilities.
The centrifugal switch is not wired right. Please recheck. (or the motor was bad out of the box. Happens).
The push to start switch is bad, and needs replaced.
Or, the wiring going to or leaving the push to start switch has broken or making a bad connection.
Lastley, I said the power comes out of the timer and splits into 2 circuits. Not always true, in some models the timer sends 2 seperate wires out carrying the power, with the possibility the timer could be bad.

Hope this helps.
and thank for using FixYa

i would check for further blockage. also check the blower fan to make sure it is blowing properly. sometimes the blower fan can wear on the motor shaft and slip, thus reducing the air flow considerably. sometimes i have found the blockage just at the point of the blower fan.
good luck; jay