20 Most Recent Maytag 15 cu. ft. / 425 liter Upright Freezer MQU1556A - Page 5 Questions & Answers

i got a straw and blew it through

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=MBF2255KEW&siteCd=MT_EN_US
go to this Maytag web site. It has a list of the manuals for your unit.
Hope this helps.

This will be caused by your fan inside the freezer. (The fan turns off when you open the door). Either the fan motor is bad or there is ice built up and the blades are hitting it. Good luck

you may have dislodged a sensor or perhaps you may have blocked your water line somehow... im not sure about this specific model, but just try having a look at what you did and see if there are sensors around there.. and make sure u havent dropped anything in there wich may have clogged the lines... lets hope its not your solenoid that has gone, sounds unlikely though you never know

BASE WARRANTY 12 months 12 months 01/01/2003 Leak Not Found 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Compressor Process Stub 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Other Sealed System Repair 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Refrigerant Charge 120 months 0 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Heat Loop 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Drier 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Sound Muffler - Leaks, Restrictions, Rep 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Liquid Control Valve - Leaks, Restrictio 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Service Valves 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Accumulator / Heat Exchanger 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Capillary 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Tubing / Valves - Leaks 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Condenser / Precooler (High Side) 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Evaporator (Low Side) 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Strainer Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Tubing / Cap Tube Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Heat Pump Valve Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Accumulator / Heat Exchanger Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Condenser / Precooler Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Evaporator Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Compressor Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Liquid Control Valve 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Sound Muffler 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Food Loss 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Light Bulb / Indicator Light 0 months 0 months 01/01/2003

You have a defrost problem. Either the defrost timer is not working to put it into an auto defrost, or you have a bad defrost heater or DTS (defrost thermostat switch).

A leak from the freezer means the icemaker is overfilling OR the water valve is broken.

Hard to diagnose without looking the appliance, so, check:

Can you see if the water is coming out from the icemaker fill tube? If so, is the icemaker bar in the OFF Position?

If both questions are answered as yes, the the water valve needs to be replaced. Perhaps it was already broken or foreign objects went into it during installation.

The part number for this model is 61005997 and costs about $25.00 USD. Check at the local appliance parts store (or check in google for a local appliance repair and parts). As I don't have your location, I can't do it for you.

For more information and support about your appliance you can visit the maytag website support at
http://www.maytag.com/support/service_parts.jsp


Good luck !

ur compressor is trying to start but the safety is turning it off may have a bad compressor but try this first might get it working again -(safety click sound) disconnects power when compressor gets to hot or is drawing to many amps--stuck--comp gets hot unplug unit and clean with a vacuum carefully under where comp and fan are this is the condenser area after cleaning or 1 hr plug in and check for start and that condenser fan is working may be reason for overheating-if still not working compressor needs service

ok hopefully i or the whatev er tech told you to ensure that the drain tube is free of obstruction
try removing the back panel and then remove the drain tube it self
make sure it is not restricted in any way
next if you have the metal drip pan above the tube
make sure the hole in the middle of the mtal pan is twisted open with a screwdriver
put a flat head in the hole and twist....
sometime you will get a water tension cover here similar to pudding skin
believe it or not that skin will block the hole and buld up ice
sinc eyou defrost seems to be working just fine im sure this should help
on elast thing there might be a duck bill on your drain tube

if therte is remove it,,,, its a rubber drip regulater on the pan end of rthe drain

either the contactor on compressor is defective or the comp is low on freon/refrigerant

model #? some are inside the unit, some are down below in the grill area (below doors) hope this helps

If it has a fan in it, it's self defrosting. The moving air burns away the frost and 8 out of every 24 hours, the defrost timer will turn a heating element in the cooling coils, to melt away any ice buildup.
If it isn't a self defrost model, you can safely defrost it woth a pan of hot water. I also use a spray bottle woth hot water to help the process. DON'T use anything electrical to make the heat. Water can drip into or onto it and you could get electrocuted.

Unplug the unit, discharge the old capacitor, remove it and install the new one. Don't cross the wires.

You have to find a licensed refrigeration tech. with a recovery machine .

This is not a self defrosting freezer . Remove the plug and hose ONLY when you unplug to defrost . You should defrost when the coils get about 1/4 " of frost (ice) on them . Otherwise , the frost will act like the plastic insulation on electrical wire , not letting the coldness freeze the food solidly .

The drain is clogged behind the wall in the freezer you can do one of three things take the back wall inside the freezer off and thaw the drain in the bottom and clear it out,Pay someone else to do this,or you can mover your food for a day unplug the unit open the freezer door and leave it off for 24 hours allowing the ice to clear from the drain,seems to happen about every five or six years with Maytags..

Possibly a bad valve but more likely not enough water coming to the unit,follow the water line from the back of the unit to where it hooks to the pipes there is usually a little saddle valve there,try closing it all the way and then open it back up check the water through the door and see if the pressure doesn't improve. 
 You can also remove the Ice maker clear out the fill tube and sit a cup under the end of it for a day or two if you get water in the cup and Ice in the tube you probably have a solenoid valve that isn't closing completely.

If the fan in the freezer is working , but the compressor is not , then the overload/relay is bad ( pt # 4356738 ) . If you hear nothing , then the defrost timer is bad ( pt # 4357124 ) . This part looks like its located close to the compressor or in one of the corners of fridge on back with about 1/2 " hole to access manual turning slot . Turn the slot and see if fridge starts .

You have a clear and present fire hazard that should be looked at ASAP. Do not leave this appliance unattended and you should unplug it any time you are away from it until professional repair arrives.

Good Luck.