20 Most Recent Maytag 24 in. MDB7600A Jetclean® II Built-in Dishwasher - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Make sure you get water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you get water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case replace the water valve.

batty, you can put the dishwasher in a automatic test mode or manual test mode. For automatic press the heavy wash key 5 times followed by the start key. 88 should show in the display if you have the digital display. It's going to check the wash motor, fill valve, drain motor, soap dispenser, vent and heater automatically. If any of these systems fail, you will get a code. The test will finish by itself. You can get the information to test the touch panel by getting the tech sheet from behind the bottom toe panel. Catriver..post back.

reach inside your d/w and jiggle the mushroom shaped float switch located on floor of d/w. should move freely up and down if its stuck up(or something lodged under it your unit wont fill with water

clean out the food trap in the bottom inside of the dishwasher.  Also your water may not be hot enough...either select hot wash or increase your hot water heater temp. 

Sound like you are recycling the same filthy water over and over again. Your dishes will likely become progressively more and more filthy.

One likely problem is that debris has clogged the small drain ports.

Most Maytag D/Ws rely on a garburator to chop debris small enough to fit through these small ports. Unfortunately a chuck of glass or fruit pit often makes it through to clog the ports. This may cause very slow and incomplete drainage or no drainage whatsoever.

To examine these drain ports, you'll need to remove the lower rack and completely disassemble the central assembly from the top down. If you are mechanically inclined its not hard. If you are worried about proper re-assembly, then video tape the assembly as a memory aid and stack the parts and screws in careful succession.

Once you reach the steel garburator blade you only have one more plastic plate to remove. Examine both ports on the plate to ensure that there is no jam or debris. Throughout the disassembly, look for any broken glass or debris that could be jamming or clogging.

When you reassemble the unit, consider reassembling without the garburator blade. Instead, perform routine disassembly and cleaning every 3 - 6 months.

Check for a deformed shaft on the water level float. Remove the kick plate and look for where the shaft of the float touches a micro switch. Often the shaft is bent sideways and only engaging the micro switch indirectly. Straighten by hand for a temporary fix or reinforce the shaft with aluminum tape and sewing needle. Keep the retrofit light weight to avoid problems with water overflow.

Its also possible you may have debris clogging the check valve that keeps water in the tub during certain cycles. To find the checl valve you'll need to remove the lower rack and completely disassemble the central assembly from the top down. If you are mechanicaly inclined its not hard. If you are worried about proper re-assembly, then video tape the disassembly as a memory aid and stack the parts and screws in careful succession.

Once you reach the steel garburator blade you only have one more plastic plate to remove. Examine both ports on the plate to ensure that there is no jam or debris. Throughout the disassembly, look for any broken glass or debris that could be jamming or clogging.

If neither of the above problems is found then the other possibility is a deflective or melted down circuit board. Check your owner's manual for longer warrantees on the control panel. A long time ago they use to have 3 - 5 year warranty. More recently the warrantees have been only for one year. Check your owner’s manual because if you ask the call centre they will always say one year even if the warrantee is longer. If the part is covered then disassemble the door to get at the control panel. Look for signs of melting/overheating. If the unit is out of warrantee then replace the dishwasher. The control panels cost as much as the dishwasher. Replace your Maytag with a quality brand like Miele. Avoid, Maytag, Jennair, Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool, Kenmore, White Westinghouse. They are all made by the same umbrella company with the same crappy parts, poor reliability, poor cleaning results and short term warrantees.

Use to be you could get 10 – 20 years of service from a North American brand. These days 3 – six months of clean dishes as much as many customers can expect before dishes become progressively more and more disgusting. Poor engineering is responsible because the designs are prone to jams, clogs, water level malfunctions and circuit board failures.

I'm not sure if it is suppose to fill above the heating element. The heating element may just be there to dry the dishes instead of heating the water. Try using a pitcher to fill the unit manually to above the heating element. If water drips out from below the kick plate then you know the water is not suppose to go that high.

Let’s say the unit is indeed under filling.

Check for a deformed shaft on the water level float. Remove the kick plate and look for where the shaft of the float touches a micro switch. Often the shaft is bent sideways and only engaging the micro switch indirectly. Straighten by hand for a temporary fix or reinforce the shaft with aluminum tape and sewing needle. Keep the retrofit light weight to avoid problems with water overflow.

Likely the float valve is deformed and no longer seated on its micro switch. Remove the bottom kick plate and look for a flimsy white spike seated on a micro switch but bent out of its proper position. The float looks like an upside down cup located near the front left corner of the inside of the dishwasher. The shaft of the float is a skinny 1/8 inch flexible piece of plastic. It deforms routinely under the light weight of the cup and the heat accumulating below the dishwasher. You can reseat the shaft on the micro switch for a temporary fix. For a permanent fix try re-enforcing the shaft with aluminum tape and a long sewing needle. Keep the retrofit very light weight to avoid over weighting the micro switch. A jammed water level sensor float can cause either no water (your situation) or water overflowing onto the floor. Usually the overflow water flows around the shaft of the float and pours our from underneath the kick plate

Sounds like a piece of broken glass or hard fruit pit stuck in the garburator. Remove the botom rack and disassemble the eniter assembly located below the bottom rack. Keep track of the order of the parts until you reach the stainless steel garburator blade. If you are not mechanicaly inclined, take video of the dissasembley to help you put things back together. You will probably find a foreign object by the time you reach the blade. Continue disassembling the assembly below the garburator to ensure that the drainage ports are not obstructed. Consider re-assembling without the garburator blade to avoid recurring problems. Substitute Garburator blade with routine disassembley and cleaning every 3-6 months. Sadly thats the best way to overcome the failure prone Garburator mechanism. When its time to buy a new D/W, buy one with a filter instead of a garburator. I recommend Miele and recomend against all Whirlpool brands (Maytag, Jennair, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Whirlpool, WhiteWestinghouse, etc.)

When Garburators Jam, you risk overheating that can melt the overpriced circuit board or overheat the motor. Either problem means discarding the dishwasher becasue the repair cost would be too high. The Garburator is a disgusting idea anyway. Instad of allowing food particles to sit at the bttom, the sme particels are minced and sprayed over the dishes that you are trying to clean.

Hi thanks for the question. to repair . bottom kick plate must be removed ,to get to the door springs .4 screws . remove them. springs on each side . replace them thanks the appliance doc.

Hi 9897,

I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.

Your problem is: The red light for the three minute delay is staying on and you can't get a cycle to start

First try to reset the d/w. Turn off the power at the circuit breakers for ten minutes. This useually solves the problem. If not, you're likely looking at a bad control board.

Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber

hi there,

go to www.whirlpooparts.ca and type in the model # under Repair Parts. it will show you the exploded view of the racks.

hi there,

go to www.whirlpoolparts.ca to get the exploded view for your model #. it will be the located under Repair Parts.

hi there,

please go to www.reliableparts.ca or .com depending on if you are in Canada or the US. you can purchase the parts from them.

hi there,

please provide the model # and any error messages on the display please.

thanks,
c

hi there,

check the keypad. it has a ribbon cable that plugs into the control board. it may be loose.

If there is no water coming in the machine check first the water supply has not a tap and this is closing.
If water is supplied regularly, then the problem is either with the inlet valve or the float switch.
See the following indications from repairclinic:

" Water-inlet valve
Float switch
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.

Float switch The float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it."