20 Most Recent Maytag 24 in. MDB5600A Jetclean II Built-in Dishwasher - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi,
the first things to look for, are the simplist faults.
1:) Check that the Outlet Hose-Pipe Isn,t Blocked-Kinked Or Bent.
2:) Check that the Pump, is not clogged/Blocked or not-functioning.

Hope this helps you start, your fault-finding successfully.

Mike @ Compurepair.

In the center of the arm is a screw on cap. It looks like it's part of the arm, but the round center screws off.

hi Replacing the Door Gasket

If water leaks through the dishwasher door, the gasket is probably faulty. Open the door and examine the gasket. It should be soft and resilient. If it's worn, cracked, or hard, it should be replaced. 
Once the gasket is in place, check it for fit against the door frame. It should fit tightly with no cracks or bulges between the gasket and the frame. If necessary, tighten or loosen the retaining screws, or refit the gasket in the clips or the door channel. Then run the machine through a washing sequence and check for leaks. 

If you spot a leak, and the gasket seems to be properly in place, try adjusting the door latch. The trick is to position the gasket against the frame of the door without flattening the gasket or squeezing it too flat when the door is latched properly. Adjust the latch or the gasket until it fits snugly against the door frame.

I believe if you hold the lock button for more than 3 seconds it will unlock. This is a feature to prevent toddlers from turning the dishwasher on or changing settings.

hi try this In most dishwashers, the water pump is located under the lower sprayer arm. This component pumps the water through the dishwasher. The pump has two impellers, top and bottom. These, as well as other components, can become clogged with food or detergent. Here's how to disassemble the pump:
Step 1: Remove the cap that holds the sprayer arm on.
Step 2: Remove the sprayer arm, the screen, the pump housing, a bolt, the upper impeller, the food disposer blade, a spacer plate, the impeller hood, a flat plate, an O-ring, and the lower impeller. Lay the parts out in order as you disassemble them so that you'll be able to reassemble them properly.
Step 3: Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild detergent solution. If any parts are worn, replace them with new ones made for the dishwasher.
Step 4: Replace any seals, such as the O-ring or other washers, with new ones.
Step 5: Reassemble the pump, keeping the parts in order.
To reach the water pump, remove the sprayer arm and screen and then the pump housing. Remove the bolt, and the pump components can be disassembled.
On some dishwashers, the lower impeller serves as a drain pump. This type of system usually has a reversible motor; machines with nonreversible motors have drain valves, as detailed previously. If your machine possesses this impeller pump system, and the water will not drain from the dishwasher, clean the lower pump impeller. This may solve the problem. Otherwise, call a professional service person. 

I had this problem and almost tossed this thing out the window. The water stopped pumping into the washer but the cycles kept on going... HERES HOW YOU FIX IT!! In the front bottom right you see the mushroom shaped float..... on the underside of the dishwasher you see that is pushing down on a switch. Its a simple little switch but the plastic pin connected to the float is easy to knock off the switch witch always leaves it in the up position !!! this is telling the washing machine that it is full of water. Find a way to keep the plastic pin on top of the metal switch and this will fix your problem. I used tape with a small piece of paper to keep from sticking to the pine or switch!!

Motors for tall tub whorlpools are over two hundred dollars. If its less than a year then its under warranty. You did not indicate model. If you can get back to me I'll look more in to seeing if it is feasable to repair or replace.

Remove from hole. Place on back. You can gain easy access to pump.

If the arm has a crack or is broke pressure will not turn it properly. Also check the rubber boot that seal the wash arm on the rear supply tube. If the rear supply tube holes are not sealing from inside with the rubber flap seal that will effect it also.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_9.asp

i need your serial num its important 17

It seems that your motor on the dishwasher is going out, like mine has just done. First, it seemed that my dishes were not getting cleaned also. My explanation is that you will soon hear a humming noise as if the motor is stuck.My Dishwasher sounds like something is grinding on glass or as if a bunch of mice are making noise. Eventually, the motor will not run any more. What will happen is that the dishwasher will fill up, then make a loud humming noise, while the heating element is making the water near the heating element sizzle. Now what you have is a possible fire hazard which compounds the problem with the dishwasher. I have also heard of other parts going bad on this model. I used to sell Maytag appliances, but Maytag is not like they used to be.I heard that all the appliances are now being made by 2 or 3 different companies, as if Kenmore and Maytag teamed up, and now are trying to create a poor product which breaks down, so right after the warranty, you have to buy another product from them. I believe Ford used to intentionally make a car part break down so as to give the mechanic work in the future. I believe the same idea with Maytag and the repair people is being followed. Either become an appliance repairman or get rid of it, take the loss, learn a lesson and live like my grandmother used to, without having a dishwasher. That is the best advice I can give you.

It seems that your motor on the dishwasher is going out, like mine has just done. My explanation is that it sounds like something is grinding on glass or as if a bunch of mice are making noise. Eventually, the motor will not run any more. What will happen is that the dishwasher will fill up, then make a loud humming noise, while the heating element is making the water near the heating element sizzle. Now what you have is a possible fire hazard which compounds the problem with the dishwasher. Get rid of it, take the loss and live like my grandmother used to, without having a dishwasher. That is the best advice I can give you.

soundslike either the latch itself is malfinctioning or hteswitches on the mounts are going bad, either way a new latch assy 99003347(part number). comes with new latch and switches, goes for abot $40 and easily changed by removing innerdoor panel and swapping out...DISCONNECT POWER FIRST!!!

make sure the water for the D/W is open

most of the noises you are talking about happen often when something is down in the sumpyou need to take the pump apart and you will find something small in there causing the noise! i see if very often and common for this unit.

There is a small round item in dishwasher on front bottom, if it is pulled up all the way the dishwasher will not allow water in.

I saw on another forum that these may leak if the assembler forgot to use teflon tape or silicone sealant where the pump assembly attaches. The repair is apparently not very difficult.

if you installed a new garbadge disposal at the same time have you popped the factory drain plug on the disposal where the dishwasher drain tube connects to the disposal. The plug is inside the disposal dishwasher connection tube . You cant see it . Just drive a screw driver through it with a hammer.Itt will pop out and then the dishwasher will drain.Just a thought.I forgot to do this to mine.

sounds like the control lock feature has been activated. look closley at the buttons one with the" lock" light hold in for 3 to 5 secs and it should dissapear