20 Most Recent Maytag MGS5770 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 2 Questions & Answers

HI
I see you have two different problems, one for the display you would have to change your clock, and because you did not give me a complete model number I can't get you the part number you need (four different colors possible on this model). Second, when an oven ignitor becomes weak it can extend cooking times and cause the same problems you have, also if you oven sensor is defective or has oven cleaner n it can cause temperatures to be erratic. I will and can help you but need a complete model number to get you more information. Located left or right side of storage drawer when its pulled out along the frame rails.
Good luck.. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Did you check the fuse panel on the stove (not the one in your house fuse box)?

1 tablespoon = 14.18 gram

taken from:

http://www.traditionaloven.com/conversions_of_measures/butter_converter.html

Hi,

Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

When you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, and then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

Let us know if you want something else please accept the solution.

The F1 code is

Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad)* Good Luck

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote to give details about why your cooktop will not spark to light the burners..

Cooktop Range Stove spark ignition does not work

heatman101

iam having the same problem i thought it was the ignitor so i changed it but it wasnt it no gas was coming out so it might be the safety valve im about to order one ill let you know when mines is fixed part number 74006427 Dual Safety Valve its about $85.00

I have the same problem ive replaced the safety valve and the heating element on the bottom. go to bellparts.com and type your model number in and look at the wiring diagram i think it has to do with the red wire going to the terminal block or it can be the contactor on the terminal block it self good luck let me know if you get yours fixed

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Press BAKE pad.
Enter 550 on the digit-pad.
Immediately press and hold BAKE
pad for 3 seconds.
Oven can be adjusted from -35 to +35
degrees in 5-degree increments by
pressing AUTOSET pad. To avoid
over adjusting the oven, move
temperature 5 degrees each time.
Wait 4 seconds for the data entry
timer to expire to accept the change.
Temperature adjustment will be
retained even through a power failure.

Your model has about 5 reasons for that code. Click Here=> MGS5770ADW Service Manual and then go to page 25 in header control bar or at bottom right side of page is section 1-11 It is a very large manual so if you do not have the current Adobe Reader go to adobe.com th search for Adobe Reader 9 I realize I just saw your post being2 days old. But thought would come in handy for the service manual. Now if you want me to go through this I can do that also. Please rate my solution after I have helped you resolve the problem and communicate with me. I am offering my help to you free. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with that problem...

The ignitor for your burner has failed...
Yeah it sounds crazy, but read this..
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

heatman101

We provide free diagnostic information when you tell us what brand and model number you are having issues with.
We are available from 7 AM – 7 PM CST. We also provide part removal/installation instructions for our customers when parts are purchased through us.
It is our goal to get you back up and running again ASAP, so please contact us when you need us to help you.
We look forward to hearing you and hope that you have a terrific day. Thank you, Ella
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service

I assume it is an electrical ignition system. Check the outlet where it is plugged in and see if there is power, if not you found the problem. There is a remote possibility the plug is on a switch or a CGFI. If that is OK check the fuse in the stove, if that is OK probably best to call a service person.
Good luck,
Gil

Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced. The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame. The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly. If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat. The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it. Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!!

Hi,

A very common occurrence surprisingly...to me anyway.

Have you changed the orifice in the oven when the conversion was done, both on the bake and broil burner supply tube ?

Need to start there even if it seems obvious, I see it a lot.

let me know,

Good luck,

macmarkus :)

the proper name for the thermostat is the oven sensor
un plug the unit
take off tghe back
open the door
upper left corner you will see a small tube
with two small phillips srews
remove those, you should be able to pull the sensor out
go to the back again and disconnect the wires
remove the probe
the part number your looking for is
AP4009456
appliancepartspros.com
costs 23.00