Maytag MSD2758GEW - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are lots of videos about refrigerator defrosting problems here. at least one of them addresses your problem. refrigerator defroster YouTube

First thing, check your perishables in you freezer compartment. if they are not frozen, the machine is may be unable to cool itself properly. Next, check your condenser coils, the radiator like grid that Maytags usually bottom mount. if it is extremely dirty or covered with hair, clean using a shop vac and compressed air (in a can sold to clean computers or with a compressor). If it is too dirty, the freezer compartment will not remain cold enough. There should also be a tray in the bottom of the (underneath the) fridge with a tube running into to it. is the tube in the tray? Is the tray full of water? Try the cleaning first and see if the problem persists. If it does you're probably going to have to bite the bullet and call for a repair technician. My experience was I left the dust and pet hair on the coils too long and burned out a part. I was lucky and had purchased extended warranty but since that incident I am diligent with checking the coils monthly and giving them a thorough cleaning with compressed air once a year even if they don't look clogged or too dusty. Hope that helps

More then likely they are just loose.

What you could check is that the fan at the back of the unit, where the compressor is located, is working, as this could also cause a heat build up. The partition between the two sides does generally tend to get hot due to the door circuit, to prevent ice buildup around the door. But people tend to notice when something is different. You are also right to check for dust underneath the cabinet as the condenser tends to be layered. If you have already cleaned it all out then you have probably done as much as you can. If you are still concerned contact a fridge guy. Hope this is of some help.

I was answering another post and this post appeared after my last post. My sincerest apologies for not seeing it long ago. The symptom your describing is caused by the inlet water valve bypassing water when it supposed to be off. This can be identified by reaching back behind the icemaker and squeezing the rubber fill tube. If it is frozen solid with ice the inlet water valve is bypassing. The inlet water valve assembly is in the back of the unit behind the fiberboard panel in the compressor / condensor coil area. There are 2 electrical connectors and 3 plastic tubes connected to the water valve. When changing the water valve do a one for one tube swap so as not to have the ice maker filling when you select water in door.

The inlet water valve is item 4 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46544&diagram_id=28489316#d28489316

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Use this manual to help you sort out the problem: (8.43 mb)
http://applianceassistant.com/pdf/inDoorIceSystem.pdf

Motor

The motor is now located on the freezer door

in a foamed-in-place enclosure under the "dispenser

bubble" area of the inner door panel.

The motor is mounted to a plastic mounting

bracket, which, in turn, is mounted to the enclosure

with four mounting screws.

The motor operates on 115 volts DC (115 volts

AC is delivered to the motor, where it is converted

within the motor assembly to DC). This

gives the motor a higher RPM than the earlier

dispenser motors, and results in a faster ice

delivery rate in both the cubed and crushed

modes.

Crushed ice is delivered by turning the motor

in a clockwise direction, and cubed ice is delivered

when the motor turns in a counterclockwise
direction.

See pages 36 - 40 (starts on printed page 5-12) for checking the motor and the switch pack.
This will deterime what has failed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

This fridge is garbage. Fixed ours 14 times in 6 years. WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAYTAG ANYTHING AGAIN!!!! CLIMATE ZONE TECHNOLOGY DRAWERS NEVER DID WORK CORRECTLY....EVER.

That sound is the sound of death....... The compressor is trying to start but can't and the overload is tripping. May only need a new start capacitor or a 3 in 1 start capacitor which replaces the overload start relay and capacitor. If you have a amp meter you can check the amp draw to see if it is drawing Locked Rotor Amps. Look at the name plate on the compressor and it will give you LRA.and see if it is close to it. Then check it again after you replace the start components and see what it is drawing if it has not started and still drawing high amps then the compressor is locked up and will have to be replaced.

This is known as the CZT or Climate Zone Technology fan and if you direct wire it and it does not run, replace.
This is the cold zone fan which supplies cold air to the meat and crisper drawers.

Good day,
You can go from an adaptive (electronic) to a conventional timer, but not the other way.
I've done many.
The reason why, is initial cost and long term dependability. My experience is, electronics have no business in a device where dependability is it's most important virtue. As well, you would unlikely ever hope to recover the initial cost, even if it was possible.

You can ask for additional opinions, but I strongly recommend you look in other areas outside of 24/7 appliances to find savings.
If you scroll around this site, I think you'll find that electronics are at best a net zero gain, if in fact a negative for the consumer.

Sounds like start components or condenser fan is stopping while it should be running. We need to look at the start components and do a windings test. Sea Breeze

Our side by side did the same, started because the cooling coils on the bottom (although cleaned regularly), still overworked due to build up of dust and especially pet hair. The heating coil in the freezer compartment which prevents ice buildup in modern (frost-free) units kicks on full time and the compressor can't compensate, thus your perishables start to thaw. Luckily we were still under warranty. hope this helps you at least start diagnosing the problem.

to start: make sure refrig is turned on and running.
1.do you hear the fan blowing inside the frzr compartment?
2.pull refrig out and listen for compressor running. is compressor running/humming away or are you hearing a humming sound followed by a clicking sound?if you hearing a clicking sound than mostly
is your relay on the compressor that went out. look for a smal device on the side of compressor w/two or three wires. part# 12002794 $32.00

also make sure there's no frost build on frzr rear wall.that's another problem

Most are inside the fresh food compartment. Some have defrost timers and others have the Adaptive Defrost Boards. Your model number will look like MSD2758GEW for example. Sea Breeze

Put vaseline on door seals

you need to change the water filter, usually around $35.00.

Ok there are many models that fall under the category you have listed above your post. Some are electronic controls at the dispenser and some are manual. We need the exact model that you have listed on the refrigerator at the locations in photo below or you can send an email to me requesting the repair manual without charge. You can visit our site for free help on your model by putting your model number in the search model or part feature. My email is [email protected]

click on site below

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

I believe it could be a number of possibilities because I'm not sure if yours has the electronic control at the dispenser or manual. It could also be an interlock switch. So let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

call a repair man, it is either the defrost timer, defrost heater or the heater cut off that has gone. even if you take the insides apart you will not be able to see anything.

Here's some good information

your referring to pushing the light switch manually to have the lights come on??if thats tha case sounds like a bad light switch( there happend to be 2 different switches, depending on the serial number of your unit. you maigh also might waan just check that the bulbs are fully tightened into their sockets(common issue)