20 Most Recent Maytag MSD2758GEW Questions & Answers


First thing, check your perishables in you freezer compartment. if they are not frozen, the machine is may be unable to cool itself properly.
Next, check your condenser coils, the radiator like grid that Maytags usually bottom mount. if it is extremely dirty or covered with hair, clean using a shop vac and compressed air (in a can sold to clean computers or with a compressor). If it is too dirty, the freezer compartment will not remain cold enough.
There should also be a tray in the bottom of the (underneath the) fridge with a tube running into to it. is the tube in the tray? Is the tray full of water?
Try the cleaning first and see if the problem persists. If it does you're probably going to have to bite the bullet and call for a repair technician.
My experience was I left the dust and pet hair on the coils too long and burned out a part. I was lucky and had purchased extended warranty but since that incident I am diligent with checking the coils monthly and giving them a thorough cleaning with compressed air once a year even if they don't look clogged or too dusty.

Hope that helps

Maytag... | Answered on Nov 26, 2013


More then likely they are just loose.

Maytag... | Answered on Mar 13, 2013


MWKT, did the service tech replace the adaptive defrost board? By your post it sounds like a defrost problem. Check out the pic, this is the adaptive defrost board. I find that the heater and bi-metal usually don't fail on these models and the board is the culprit. Catriver..post back

Maytag... | Answered on Sep 03, 2012


What you could check is that the fan at the back of the unit, where the compressor is located, is working, as this could also cause a heat build up. The partition between the two sides does generally tend to get hot due to the door circuit, to prevent ice buildup around the door. But people tend to notice when something is different. You are also right to check for dust underneath the cabinet as the condenser tends to be layered. If you have already cleaned it all out then you have probably done as much as you can. If you are still concerned contact a fridge guy. Hope this is of some help.

Maytag... | Answered on Nov 14, 2011


I was answering another post and this post appeared after my last post. My sincerest apologies for not seeing it long ago. The symptom your describing is caused by the inlet water valve bypassing water when it supposed to be off. This can be identified by reaching back behind the icemaker and squeezing the rubber fill tube. If it is frozen solid with ice the inlet water valve is bypassing. The inlet water valve assembly is in the back of the unit behind the fiberboard panel in the compressor / condensor coil area. There are 2 electrical connectors and 3 plastic tubes connected to the water valve. When changing the water valve do a one for one tube swap so as not to have the ice maker filling when you select water in door.

The inlet water valve is item 4 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46544&diagram_id=28489316#d28489316

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Maytag... | Answered on Jul 22, 2011


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Use this manual to help you sort out the problem: (8.43 mb)
http://applianceassistant.com/pdf/inDoorIceSystem.pdf

Motor

The motor is now located on the freezer door

in a foamed-in-place enclosure under the "dispenser

bubble" area of the inner door panel.

The motor is mounted to a plastic mounting

bracket, which, in turn, is mounted to the enclosure

with four mounting screws.

The motor operates on 115 volts DC (115 volts

AC is delivered to the motor, where it is converted

within the motor assembly to DC). This

gives the motor a higher RPM than the earlier

dispenser motors, and results in a faster ice

delivery rate in both the cubed and crushed

modes.

Crushed ice is delivered by turning the motor

in a clockwise direction, and cubed ice is delivered

when the motor turns in a counterclockwise
direction.

See pages 36 - 40 (starts on printed page 5-12) for checking the motor and the switch pack.
This will deterime what has failed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Maytag... | Answered on Jul 22, 2011


to start: make sure refrig is turned on and running.
1.do you hear the fan blowing inside the frzr compartment?
2.pull refrig out and listen for compressor running. is compressor running/humming away or are you hearing a humming sound followed by a clicking sound?if you hearing a clicking sound than mostly
is your relay on the compressor that went out. look for a smal device on the side of compressor w/two or three wires. part# 12002794 $32.00

also make sure there's no frost build on frzr rear wall.that's another problem

Maytag... | Answered on Apr 18, 2011


This fridge is garbage. Fixed ours 14 times in 6 years. WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAYTAG ANYTHING AGAIN!!!! CLIMATE ZONE TECHNOLOGY DRAWERS NEVER DID WORK CORRECTLY....EVER.

Maytag... | Answered on Feb 08, 2011


That sound is the sound of death....... The compressor is trying to start but can't and the overload is tripping. May only need a new start capacitor or a 3 in 1 start capacitor which replaces the overload start relay and capacitor. If you have a amp meter you can check the amp draw to see if it is drawing Locked Rotor Amps. Look at the name plate on the compressor and it will give you LRA.and see if it is close to it. Then check it again after you replace the start components and see what it is drawing if it has not started and still drawing high amps then the compressor is locked up and will have to be replaced.

Maytag... | Answered on Feb 08, 2011


This is known as the CZT or Climate Zone Technology fan and if you direct wire it and it does not run, replace.
This is the cold zone fan which supplies cold air to the meat and crisper drawers.

Maytag... | Answered on Feb 07, 2011


Good day,
You can go from an adaptive (electronic) to a conventional timer, but not the other way.
I've done many.
The reason why, is initial cost and long term dependability. My experience is, electronics have no business in a device where dependability is it's most important virtue. As well, you would unlikely ever hope to recover the initial cost, even if it was possible.

You can ask for additional opinions, but I strongly recommend you look in other areas outside of 24/7 appliances to find savings.
If you scroll around this site, I think you'll find that electronics are at best a net zero gain, if in fact a negative for the consumer.

Maytag... | Answered on Sep 22, 2010


Ok here you go, step by step.

-UNPLUG fridge

-Remove top most shelf in fridge.

-Remove entire control housing cover. Locate two half moon shaped openings in rear of plastic cover, insert finger tips into openings pull down and forward to disengage and remove plastic cover.

-Remove two quarter inch screws at front of setting adjustment lense. One on right side one on left side. The "temperature display" will now be loose and able to be removed. *Pay attention to orientaion of screws as there are two holes in the ends of the plastic temperature display*

-remove the two quarter inch screws that secure your current defrost control in place. they will be slightly to the right of center of the control housing and slightly to the rear of center. *note that if this control has been replaced already, these screws may not be there as some technicians (myself included) do not re-install these screws as the newer style has an enclosure.

-Remove quarter inch screw at rear of control housing that screws in horizontally straight through the rear of the control housing and into the back of the fridge wall (slightly right of center bottom rear)

-Remove two phillips head screws from left and right side of control housing located just above each light bulb housing. These screws go through a "keyhole" slot but are next to impossible to get out that way so just remove them.

-now your housing will be somewhat free to move around.
-Slide the housing to the right about an inch and allow the front to drop. It is best if you do not try to pull the entire housing out as all fo the control wiring routes through a track in the rear of the housing and can be difficult to re-install so just let the housing tip forward to give you access to the defrost board located in the right rear of the housing.

-Unplug the defrost control board and plug in the new one. Try to be sure the pins are oriented correctly as it is possible to offset the connector when installing the new part (leaving a pin hanging open on one end and the connector hanging off the other end)

-Double check your wiring in the rear to make sure it is still in the small track at the rear of the control housing and push the housing back up to the ceiling of the fridge.

-Start by partially installing the two phillips head screws first on re-assembly, this will make it easier for you to re-alighn everything.

-Double check to make sure each of your controls still move freely and that no wiring is interfering with them

-Install rear quarter inch screw

-tighten up the two phillips head screws

-re-install the temp display and the two screws that swecure it into position.

-Place cover up and forward of the housing and slide it back to lock it in position.

-Pat self on back for job well done and money saved by being smart and using FIXYA!! ;-)

Thanks,
Bob
Let me know if you have any other questions on this!!

Maytag... | Answered on Aug 09, 2010


hello,It is possible that your adaptive defrost assembly found inside the fresh food section and behind the control panel is defective. If not we need to check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat


61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly
b35d010.jpg

wish you good luck,
take care.

Maytag... | Answered on May 12, 2010


Sounds like start components or condenser fan is stopping while it should be running. We need to look at the start components and do a windings test. Sea Breeze

Maytag... | Answered on Feb 21, 2010

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