The buzzing is typically gonna be the compressor trying to start and failing. Am I right in saying the fridge is at least 12 or more years old?
Maytag used to use a compressor made by Tecumseh and they had a problem with starting. They would buzz and sometimes start back up. Sometimes in a few tries or a few days or never. It would continue to re try every couple minutes and last 5-10 seconds.
I would verify if it is a Tecumseh or an Embraco compressor then make your decision.
A service tech should be able to figure this out pretty easily! Normally what I would do is if I go in and it is running then I would turn it off and back on right away. the fridge will go through its restart sequence and typically make its noises then. Hopefully you are not being charged every time they come out
Compressors are the most expensive repair! and on these I always replace the discharge tube since they tend to rot out from sitting in the drain pan.
Let us know what you find!
The water supply line is possibly being restricted by lime tuild-up
Turn water off, then start your inspection at the saddle valve attached to your cold water line, then go up to the water valve attached to the unit, Remove the water line and inspect for lime build-up or for foreign material. You may have to replace both valves. Link should help you
I was wondering if maybe the ice box was in sabbath mode? Sabbath Mode (SAb) When the Sabbath Mode is on, all control lights, interior lights, and the night light will be disabled until the feature is turned off. Press the Door Alarm pad for three seconds to restore the lights. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Hello there,
Lets start with the first question. To replace the freezers light please follow the steps below.
Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
NOTE: You may need to remove the upper freezer shelf or basket to access the light assembly.
The light bulb cover opens from the back. Firmly press forward on the notches in the back of the cover and pull down the cover.
Remove the cover and replace the burned-out bulb with an appliance bulb no greater than 40 watts.
Insert the front tabs of the cover into the liner and snap the back portion of the cover over the light assembly.
Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.
For the sliding drawers in the bottom freezer. Please followthe steps below:
Tilt the front of the shelf up and lift the back of the shelf. This will remove the shelf latches out of the shelf holder slots.
Pull the shelf straight out to remove it from the refrigerator.
Reinsert the shelf by sliding the upper shelf latches into the shelf holder slots. The front of the shelf should be tilted up when inserting the latches.
Lower the front of the shelf slowly so the bottom latch slides easily into the support slots.
or through these steps.
Pull forward on the shelf until it stops.
Press up on the release latches on the bottom of the outside edges of the shelf and slide the shelf out of the refrigerator.
Reinsert the shelf by lining it up with shelf tracks and sliding it fully into the refrigerator. You will hear the tabs click when the shelf is first inserted in the tracks.
Hope this was helpful to you.
Goodluck
Elect_Comp
When the freezer section gets cold and reaches its required cooling temperature, after that the frost on freezer section starts defrosting and the cooling fan in the freezer section blows this cool air from freezer to fridge. But if the defrost cycle does not start then over ice will get collected on freezer ventilations and that will block the air passing section from freezer to fridge, so the freezer gets cool but fridge section does not cool. ---------------
Its defrost problem. Try manual defrost by unplugging the refrigerator from main power outlet for 24 hours then reconnect it and check, if the same problem is noticed again,. If yes then its defrost board problem. The defrost board located in the back of fridge section. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com or from online sears part site. ------------- Thank you.
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube and or diverting the water allowing it to freeze wherever it drips to. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips. You can melt the ice in the fill tube with a hairdryer.
