(I'm providing a late, modern response for people like me who land here in 2022+)
I had the same problem. Gradually it got worse until only Bake ' Cancel work. Sometimes the problem is due to bad ribbon cable connections; sadly, with this oven, the issue is the membrane buttons having failed. It's frustrating, because this has happened with every version of this model that I have seen. Add to this that the membrane buttons are behind a sealed panel that you can't access without breaking it, and you'll quickly learn that you need to buy the replacement part. 5765M483-60 is the matching control unit, but make sure with the vendor that it is the right size for your unit first; it's expensive. It's also now out of stock and is a 2-3 month special order at most vendors. The replacement is tedious, but simple and approachable for a first time DIY'er. At this point, I'd rather buy a new replacement oven instead, but finding 27" models is difficult as most are 30" now, which won't fit my cabinetry - thus I bit the bullet and bought the replacement control unit. Oven came with the house on purchase; former owner told me she had already done the same repair once before; so that means this problem will keep recurring.
open hinge locks with door open then partially close the door and grip both sides of the door and lift it up and out. Be careful as the door is fairly heavy. There are screws on the bottom ,sides and near the top that you remove and the door will separate so you can get at the glass. Reverse to put it back together. Be careful inside the door as the edges of some metal is sharp. Good luck
Wow deffinately sounds like the control brd it sounds like a pretty good examination by somebody that is used to electric.It would be a very complicated troubleshoot over a message brd.The temp problem could be calibration issues or a bad thermistor not reading to the oven correctly.but intermittent kicking on off could be more.Maybe some programming issues usually shut the power off and back on to reset but if your turning off the breaker that would rule that out.Maybe turn of power and chek plugs and wire for loose connections.that would be a good start.
Hi, from your posted question concerning your Maytag oven control pad button not working, you should start getting prepared to change the control pad panel to fix the problem...
Hello there: Here is all of the possible error codes for the door and what they mean and what to look at
DOOR
Bake or Broil · Defective latch switch · Shorted wire from ERC 10-pin
connector, pin 10 to ground · Door latched
Replace latch
switch if defective.Replace wire from 10-pin connector if
defective
DOOR
Self-Clean · Defective latch switch · Open wire from ERC 10-pin
connector, pin 10 to ground · Door not latched
Replace latch
switch if defective.Replace wire from 10-pin connector if
defective
LOCK
Not in Self-Clean · Oven temperature sensor
resistance too high
Check oven
temperature sensor resistance, wire harness and connections,
replace defective component
It is in Sabbath mode, used for Jewish holidays. Anyway, hold the cancel button for 3-5 seconds and it should revert back to normal operating mode. It will still bake in Sabbath mode but will not display anything due to the laws regarding observation of the Sabbath
If the fan is working, but there is no heat from rear element, then the element needs replacing.
Remove inner rear cover of oven, you will see the element there, remove, and replace.
Please leave a rating for my suggested solution.
Thanks.
f your 2008 Maytag double oven's lower door is locked, here are some steps you can try to unlock it:
Press Cancel/Off Key: Start by pressing the Cancel/Off key. Wait for 20-30 seconds, then try to open the door. Sometimes this simple latch reset can do the trick.
Power Cycle: Turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box for one minute. After that, turn the power back on. Allow the oven to cool for approximately 30-90 minutes, and then move the latch arm to the left to unlock the door.
Self-Clean Cycle Interruption: If the door locked during a self-clean cycle, select the "Self Clean" option, and then choose "Cancel". Wait a couple of minutes, and then try to start the cycle again. If the self-clean cycle was started by mistake, press the Cancel/Off key. The oven will need to cool to around 200°F (95°C) before the door can open.
Remember to ensure that the oven is cool and the power is turned off before attempting any of these steps. Hopefully, one of these methods will help you unlock the oven door! Your manual might prove helpful. Oven is Locked - What to Do - Product Help ' Maytag
There are two types and they both work to a theme. Modern Oven hinges are inset into the door itself, so you just split the door apart, take the old ones out and the new ones in. The other type have the hinges inside the oven itself between the outside of the oven cavity and the outer panel. With those you pull out or remove the wall oven and look at the back and underneath for the screws. Remove the side panels, remove and replace the hinges.
Door Mounted Hinge
Side Mounted hinge
your Maytag range has only a single heating element located at the top of the oven, it is likely a "broil" element, which is used primarily for cooking food close to the top of the oven. The lower heating element, which is typically used for baking and roasting, may be hidden beneath the oven floor or located at the bottom of the oven.
If your oven is not getting very hot, it is possible that the broil element is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. However, if the oven is not heating evenly or is not getting hot enough to cook food properly, it may be a more complex issue related to the temperature sensor, the control board, or other components.
To diagnose and repair the issue, it is recommended to have the range serviced by a qualified technician, who can properly identify the model and locate the faulty component. The model number of your range can typically be found on a label inside the oven door, on the back of the range, or on a storage drawer beneath the oven.