20 Most Recent Maytag MMV5165 Stainless Steel 1000 Watts Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

The arcing that caused the fire also caused the microwave generator be over loaded and sent stray voltage into the chassis. Microwaves MUST have the proper coating in the oven or aching will occur all the time. IF the coating is damaged and it can be damaged in areas that you cannot see, you will be money and heartache ahead if you replace the whole thing now.

there is fuse inside the microwave.you may have to take the cove off to get to it.caution must be used as there is a high voltage cap.that may need to be discharged for safety!!!!! replace with ONLY the same type of fuse!!!

I would first be sure the inside is clean of grease and food debris. That's always critical.Next I'd suggest removing and checking / cleaning the stirrer cover, stirrer, and the area under the cover and around the stirrer.That's covered on page 33 of the service manual here.That too should be clean.If it still smokes, you may have a failing high voltage transformer.You can order Maytag parts here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hi, yes you should be concerned with the fact that the fan in the microwave is not working because it's function is to cool of the microwave whenever it is heating up and without it working, the microwave will gradually begin to malfunction. As a non-tech, it is not advisable to swap it your self because of it's complicity. I advise you call in a tech, and changing the fan worth it.

Take care

HI. Your symptoms are a strong indication of Magnetron failure. This is the principal heating device, that is used to produce microwaves that , essentially, excite the water molecules in the food, thus, producing the heating effect. When this device fails, generally, the unit will run, but not heat. This device is very fragile, and can injure you if you are not qualified to handle this type of component. There is a High Voltage Capacitor, that is used to help provide the necessary current for optimal Magnetron operation. This capacitor must be discharged correctly. If not, you could risk serious injury, during the repair, if it is accidental touched.

The Magnetron is linked to a cut-off fuse. If the magnetron becomes unstable, this fuse will shut the device down. It is standard procedure to have this fuse test for continuity. If the fuse has blown, this will be the culprit. Replace the fuse. Now, if the fuse continues to show continuity, this will confirm that the Magnetron has failed. I would advise to inspect the Capacitor, and HV diode for visible burn marks, or swollen top(Cap).

Access can be ac hived to these parts by removing the outside cabinet screws. Once the screws are removed, the cover can be removed, as well. Once the cover is removed, the internal components will be exposed for testing, and visual inspections.

WARNING: IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED SERVICE TECH, THIS WILL NOT BE A NOVICE DO IT YOURSELF JOB. MICROWAVES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. I RECOMMEND TO CALL FOR SERVICE, IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH HANDLING THE CAPACITOR, OR MAGNETRON.

Your controller board has failed.
Either a loose solder joint, or failed component on the circuit board.

GO HERE and enter the FULL part number of your microwave, and your controller can be found in the diagrams.

They are normally under $50 and something you can change on your own without disassembling the microwave too much... anything further, and I would recommend professional repair. There are potentially lethal voltages inside a microwave that must be safely discharged before repairs are attempted !!

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It could be the failure of either the hood fan thermostat or a problem on the control board.

If it turns out to be the control board, we repair those for $39.95 nationwide.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

 

Open the mic and take off the hole pannel,you will see plastic like clips that you just need to press out.
Be cearfull not to bend the new pannel,they brake like nothing...

Good luck.

Chances are you have a stuck relay on the control board.

We regularly repair these for customers nationwide with our guaranteed $39.95 service.

It's also possible that your model may have a hood fan thermostat, and it may be stuck closed.

We would need your model number to see if it has one.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

I would invite you to contact me directly for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

I would consult the owner's manual or installation manual on this. It will show you how to do either way.

If you don't have yours, you can download it here:
http://www.maytag.com/support/manuals_literature.jsp

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

On my Microwave it saying e5 on it and it not reheating it self

Take it in for service. It is nothing that is straightforward, https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

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Have you checked inside the microwave? Usually they have the manual hidden in there.

Replace the faulty door switch.

one of micro switch could be bad or the main board issue is there