20 Most Recent Baby Lock Eclipse Serger - Page 4 Questions & Answers

if a part is worn or damaged or broken it's not going to move it need to be checked at a sewing machine repair shop

it's possible that a part in the serger is broken or damaged it need to be serviced by a sewing machine repair shop

Can you manually turn the flywheel (towards you) - does the needle and loopers move then through the normal sequence?If the answer is no, then its most likely something in the drive gear path, possibly a nylon gear inside it that has failed. This can be replaced but probably means a major dismantle of the internals. You may want to take it to a baby lock dealer and see if they confirm that this is the fault.I had this gear replaced in my Bernette 334D and it cost $250, part was only $25 of that charge.

I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll. On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

this manual is available from the Singer website, here is the linkhttp://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manualstype in your model number prefixed with a "W' so put in "W970" and click search, wait for the page to build. You'll get a box marked "Free download", click this and again wait for the pdf file to load, it will be large so will take a while depending on your internet speed. Once its viewable click on the clipboard icon to save the file to your PC, for printing and reference.

Tension dials factory setting is all at 5, stitch lenth on about 2 or 2.5 and differential on zero.

I also have a babylock eclipse BLE1DX serger & here's how my book says to do it

to replace the upper cutting blade
1.open the front panel
2.remove the screw holding the upper blade
remove the upper blade
3.position the new blade in the blade slot, replace the screw.as you tighten the screw, hold the blade up in it's highest position
4.close blade cover. close front cover

hope this helps you
good luck

A jammed machine is caused by thread being caught in the hook. Remove the upper thread and the bobbin case, turn the hand wheel towards you (counterclockwise) by hand and remove any thread in the bobbin case area. Always turn the hand wheel towards you. Turning the hand wheel away from you (clockwise) can cause the machines timing to become unaligned and jam your machine. Also, always make sure the presser foot is in the down position before you start sewing. Sewing with the presser foot in the up position will jam your machine in the bobbin case.
You can also follow these following steps:
First: take out the needle and be sure it isn't bent. Even the tiniest bend will cause problems. use a fresh needle and see if that helps. If not your machine might need a deep thorough cleaning, more than a simple brush out. Instructions should be in the machines manual. Remove the needle plate, open up the bobbin area and clean out everything, focusing on the the feed dog area. It's probably jammed up with lint or has a bit of a broken pin or some type of debris in it. Also check the entire bobbin/feed dog/shuttle race area and clean out accumulated lint, any loose threads and look for tiny bits of metal. Look at the post that the bobbin is on and be sure that there's no thread wrapped around it. It happens. Be sure the bobbin case is free of lint and dirt. Check the shuttle race hook for burrs, rough spots and cracks. Be sure the hook has a point, if it hits the needle the point of the hook can break off. Are the feed dogs screwed tightly in place? wiggle them. Do they move? They shouldn't, they should be tightly in place. With no thread in the needle, the bobbin and bobbin case in place and the machine opened up turn the hand-wheel and watch what happens. Is the needle hitting something inside? Is the hook hitting the needle? Are the dogs running freely, or are they hesitating or not moving? Try with the needle and bobbin threaded and the machine open. Is the hook in the bobbin area catching the thread? Or is it missing? These problems could be timing issues and that needs to be professionally repaired. If your machine hasn't had a tune up in a while then a trip to the technician would be a good idea. Like cars, they need occasional tune up, oil changes and regular maintenance. Mine get a check up twice a year and it's a worthy investment. The average home sewer should have theirs checked every 12-18 months depending on how much you use your machine.
Finaly clean machine again. Disassemble machine and clean shuttle.
?
Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

Plz try this link

http://www.sewingmanuals.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/babylock.htm

Your problem is probably the stitch length adjustment cam (located on the left side of the machine) To fix this problem you will need to remove the small plastic cap (with red arrow) covering the screw securing the cam. It is usually also necessary to remove the connecting rod/sleeve that the cam rides in. Once both of these parts have been removed, you will need to carefully separate them and resurface the inside of the sleeve. This can be done with a very fine (500grit or higher) emery paper. Once the cam fits inside the sleeve without binding, reassemble using sewing machine oil or lithium grease and adjust feed dog timing.

These machines have to have the threader tubes engaged. Do you have them set for threading? If it still doesn't thread you have to use the wire threader that was provided with the machine when you bought it. It might be in the storage compartment under the lower looper spool pin.

Here is an online user's guide for the Eclipse-sx (6.60 Mb)

http://www.babylock.com/ftp/whitepapers/EclipseSX_BLE1SX-2_InstRefGuide.pdf

There are more manuals on the babylock site... if this is not your model. Look under products and then sergers. The DX is also listed. Click on the DX and when the page loads click on FAQ's and Manuals. You will see the users guide. Rt click and then "save" as to your computer. Or open the manual and then save it.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

left one, rolled hem is usually a narrow seam so you remove the left needle, change the needle plate or flick a switch that changes the position of the thread finger under the foot and tighten up the looper tensions. You want the top looper thread to go around to underneath and the bottom looper thread to disappear against the needle stitching. You also need to close up the stitching density, by decreasing the stitch length.