20 Most Recent Janome 1600P-DB Mechanical Sewing Machine - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Is the problem with the thread being wound too loose on the bobbin or is the bobbin thread too loose on your sewing? If it is the later, refer to your book on tightening the thread by turning the screw [very little at a time] on your bobbin case.

You will need to take your machine to a dealer and have it adjusted. Machines should be cleaned and serviced at least once a year. Needles should be replaced when dull. Skipping stitches can also be from using the wrong kind of needle. When quilting on cotton, use sharp needles, when sewing on knits use a ball needle. You can use a universal needle but they aren't perfect and will cause skipping on some fabrics.

Possible solution...when you reassemble, the spring needs to lie flat in the channel under the center black slide. When you put the cover back on,the pin or post that sticks up on the black slide has to be in the curved cam slot on the inside of the cover. If it isn't the slide won't move in and out of the slot to engage the main drive.

acing you has loops on it then it is the bobbin tension which is incorrect or the bobbin has been threaded wrongly. A good way to test tension is using contrasting colours top and bottom. Rethread your machine and tighten up the bobbin tension screw if needed.

Janome now has a darning foot ie it looks like an embroidery foot with a spring designed for the 1600 models. It is metal with a ring where the needle goes down through it. I removed the plastic lens inside the ring and this seems to have resolved the problem.

I usually pull my threads to the top so I can see where they are and not getting tangled underneath.
There are several good groups on Yahoo groups which offer support for starting out on quilting

Please check the top tension as well and rethread. I had this problem and after doing the above, everything worked perfectly. Thanks.

It sounds as though the thread is jumping out of the tension assembly. The next time this happens, do not raise the presser foot before you do the following.Cut the thread above the needle and pull on it.If it is working properly there will be tension on it.If it is not working properly, the thread will pull through very easily.If the thread is coming out of the tension , either it isn't threaded correctly or you may need to wrap the thread around the bobbin winder guide to keep it from coming out.If you wrap it around the bobbin winder guide reduce the tension to around 2 , 3 or even less.
Hope this helps.
sewman7

My husband and I worked for months trying to solve this problem and FINALLY we did it. I even had a YLI varigated thread in the top and Coats and Clark varigated in the bobbin. The machine Janome 1600P DB makes a beautiful stitch. This is a long posting and if you have questions I'll be happy to help if I can. [email protected]
1) I give credit to piecemealquilts.wordpress.com for their recommendations.
Most of which I list below.
2) First of all make sure that the frame is level in all directions, side-to-side, top to bottom. That includes the table that it is setting on.
3) Bobbin tension: This is much looser than you normally have it set on. The bobbin should fall steadily to the floor. Read your machine manual to learn how to loosen the tension. Be sure to go in small increments. Don't be afraid. It also helps to use a different color thread in the bobbin than the top to see the problem. Is the bobbin properly inserted into the bobbin case. Is the bobbin case properly inserted into the machine?
4)Use the correct needle for your machine.
5) Use at least a 14 and a 16 or 18 is even better. Size 20 for specialty threads if you can get a size that large.
6) Make sure that the needle is inserted properly. My machine doesn't have a flat side so proper insertion is challenging. If you can find a straight pin small enough to fit in the eye do so as this helps to determine if the needle is in at the correct angle. The eye of my needle is left to right so I use a sturdy piece of thread, some spray starch on the thread helps it to stay straight. This makes it much easier to determine if the needle is in properly.
7) The pressure foot dial is set on 0
8) The stitch length is set on the longest stitch length. I know that you actually determine the stitch length and some people tell you to have it set on 0, but I found this to work.
9)Threading: Make sure you have the machine threaded correctly. Inoticed that when my thread was breaking that the thread in the take uplever was either out of the thread guides or had crossed each other. Also, sometimes the thread had wrapped itself around the first smallthread guide and/or the outside hole on the pretension thread guide hadwrapped around the bottom of the thread guide. When your thread breaks pull a good 12" out and then cut it off assometimes it has frayed higher up. This will help to reduce continuedbreakage and your frustration. This sounds dumb but still make sure the thread is sitting on the spool properly, that the thread spills off the spool as shown in your machine manual. I found it helpful to place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread. This was just a scrap of felt with a hole cut into it. Check the retractable thread guide which is right over your spool that it is correctly positioned and not twisted around. The thread should easily pull off the spool. I found that my machine worked better if I onlythreaded the two guide holes closest to the machine on the pretension guide.
10)Thread tension: I found that my needle tension had to be much looser than what I was used to anywhere from 1 -3.
11)The quilt: Not too tight and not too loose,too tight and needles and thread break, too loose and it's difficult to move the carriage. Can you poke a finger from the bottom and grip it from the top? I found this a little too loose, but used it as a guide. The side clamps are to keep it straight and not tight.
12)The take up rail should just barely clear the bed of the machine. I found it more accurate to check this with the machine in the middle of the quilt as opposed to one of the ends. Can you fit your fingers between the quilt and the machine bed? Yes, but barely is the answer.
13) I was able to quilt in both directions, but make sure your carriage moves freely in all directions.
14) Make sure the feed dogs are down and ready for free motion.
15) Make sure the presser foot is down and ready for sewing.
16) Check both the bobbin area and the top thread tension area for stray threads. It happens.
17) My last help was to add thread lubricant, but make sure your machine allows it. I just found out that you shouldn't use this on the spool if you have plastic tension discs. Mine are metal, but still I use this sparingly. I run a couple of lines on the spool, let it sit for a few minutes then sew. I don't repeat this for at least an hour of constant sewing.
18) Strangely this also helped, every so often I pulled straight out on both the knobs of the pretension disc and the tension disc. Don't pull the knobs off. This just released the tension of the thread. I didn't adjust it, I just pulled straight out. I didn't rethread it, just released it.

19) Finally, I did discover that I had a burr on my tension disc.How to figure this out, well it works better with two people, but one can do it. Lift up the presser foot, needle is in the highest position, then manually , slowly pull the thread through the needle, listen to the tension disc. You shouldn't hear anything. Watch the tension disc, does the check spring move down? Does it stay down then bounce back up? It shouldn't. Feel the thread as it is being pulled does it have tension on it? If the answer to these questions is yes, take it to the shop and let them fix it. It literally takes 5 mins.

I hope this helps

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THREAD BREAKING. HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING. FINALLY I GOT SOME UPHOLSTERY THREAD AND IT SEAMS TO WORK MUCH BETTER. NOW i AM HAVING TROUBLE FINDING THE NEEDLES FOR THIS MACHINE. NOT HAPPY WITH MACHINE AT ALL

make sure that you are using the correct needles Janome HL

the solution is above I damaged the darning hook and plate by not using the correct needles

Turn the bobbin around in the case so that the bobbin turns in the same direction as the thread is flowing. If you pull the thread in the case and the bobbin turns opposite the flow of the thread then you might have a problem.

Make sure the shuttle is in place, you will have to look at the manual for this. Replace the case and bobbin. Make sure you have a good needle in place.

27 - Complete Tension Unit
28 - Setscrew TP 3 X 6
29 - Hexagonal socket screw 4 X 6

There is no exploded view for this component, so if you cannot confidently restore the unit, suggest seeing a technician, and the next time you take something apart, use a camera for reference, and lay components out carefully as they come apart.even write notes for yourself.

Hope this is helpful, it is the best image available in the Janome Manuals.

The 1600-DB requires a special Walking or Even Feed Foot due to the high sewing speed, so ensure that you have the correct foot, as the "normal" top loading machine foot will not fit.

I hope these images will assist in showing how the fitting should look.


This is the Normal - WRONG - foot to compare:






This is the CORRECT Foot:






From the Janome Accessories Guide:


"The even feed foot walks over fabric to assist with smooth feeding. Fabric can be sewn without puckering as the fabric is gripped and fed by both the upper and lower feed dogs. This foot has been specially designed for durability and to work at the high speeds of the 1600 series.


Part Number - 767-403-016"


If you need a larger image or you want any more help with this, just drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at

www.bargainbox.com.au

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

check to see if the machine is setting securely on the quilt frame .also check to see if the frame is setting level on the floor

Moving parts require lubrication it is true, however, if there is an underlying problem that you think "a bit of oil" will resolve, this may not be the case.

There is quite a deal of electronic circuitry which will be adversely affected by indiscriminate oiling, and dismantling or adjusting this machine really ought to be conducted with reference to a Service Manual, particularly the automatic cutter.

Your 1600p is a semi-professional workhorse and I would recommend that it be regularly serviced by a qualified technician to check and maintain optimum performance (how regularly will depend on usage).

You have made a serious investment when you bought this machine and it really deserves & ought to be maintained as you would any expensive item, by a qualified person......you wouldn't send your Rolls Royce to just anyone to check the steering would you !?

A regular home cleaning regime should include bobbin case/hook race (under needleplate) and of the thread tension plates along with any obvious buildup of lint at and around the needle arm and region, near the lamp.

Bargainbox

1. Power Off: Turn off your machine completely. Make sure it's not just in standby mode but completely powered down.
2. Unplug: Disconnect the power cord from the outlet. Wait for about 10-15 seconds to ensure all power is drained from the machine.
3. Plug Back In: Reconnect the power cord to the outlet.
4. Power On: Turn on your Janome 300e and see if the screen is responsive now.

If the issue persists even after performing a reset, there might be a more significant problem with the machine's software or hardware. In such cases, it's advisable to contact Janome customer support or a certified technician for further assistance. They may provide additional troubleshooting steps or recommend servicing the machine.