20 Most Recent LG (LRBC22522ST) Stainless Steel Questions & Answers

try glass cleaner..... the transparent stuff, not the milky sort.

You have a defrost system failure and needs to be checked.

You can manually defrost for a temp fix. Turn it off, take everything out of the freezer, use a hairdryer to warm the back wall, 20-30 min, put everything back, turn it back on and you should be good for a couple of days.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator RepairRefrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator CompressorRefrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Coldheatman101

Is the condenser fan turning? Is the evaporater fan turning? Check the evaporater at the freezer compartment it should have fine frost all the way if no frost or partly frosted may be low on freon.Be sure there is no air leaks around door or something. Hope this helps.

You have a bad start capicator. Remove the circut board cover and you will see the cap. It is a little bigger than a C sized battery and it is white. Replace it with a new one and you will be fine

Look at the top and bottom of the door. There should be two holes near the edge. If there is then you just remove the hinges by the screws and place them on the other side of the fridge and flip the door over. At that point your shelves should be able to be flipped also. But if the manual does not say anything then your doors may not be able to be switched

Frost in the rear of freezer possibly caused by door staying open.  Door staying open possibly caused by frost buildup on ref door track.  Start by making sure the teeth on the freezer track are clear of ice and frost.  This should allow you to shut the freezer door.  Next check the freezer seal.  If it is not completely sealed it it will build up frost. It is also possible that the frost in the rear of the freezer is from a failure in the defrost cycle as the evap coils are at the back of the freezer. If this is the case your refrigerator is probably getting warmer.  

Immediately turn off power to heater. One of two things has happened. Either: A. The electrical contacts in one of the thermostats has welded together, necessitating replacement of the thermostat(s). (in this case I would recommend replacing both upper and lower thermos) or B. The lower element has burnt through, and because there is 120 volts to the lower element at all times (it normally only heats when the thermos complete the circuit to give it a path to the other "hot", putting a full 240 volts on it) a section of the element will continue to heat up to the point where the break allows the current to complete it's path to neutral ground via the water in the tank. It can continue to heat until the high limit safety thermo trips out. (the red reset button on the upper thermostat)
If either condition exists, the high limit safety thermo should trip out power to the heater before boiling water, and thus steam, is produced. Even if the safety thermo should fail to cut power, the pressure / temperature relief valve should open, releasing excessive pressure. If that should also fail to open, due to corrosion or such, the water heater will create steam and can actually result in explosion, and possible injury or death!
Several years ago I came across one that was boiling and when I turned on a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure it filled the entire basement with steam. (I still shutter to think if I didn't catch that fast enough I or someone else could have been killed)

The most likely cause of your extra hot water is actually the lower element. After you turn off power to the heater, turn off the water supply to the heater, open a hot water faucet to allow air to enter the tank and drain the tank. Remove the lower element. A bad element is usually visually apparent. If it looks good, you would have to test it with an ohm meter. (should be about 20 ohms if it is good) Install new element, turn on water and fill until water flows steadily from the hot water faucet you left open. Now you can turn the faucet off and turn power back on to heater.

HI.

• Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater
• Check that the refrigerator is level
• Check the drain pan
• Check the condensor fan
• Check the evaporator fan
• Inspect the compressor mounts

plz do rate this post so i can help others.

Good Luck.

Yes, that is one problem.  The refrigerant needs to remove the excess heat through the condenser coils.  If the air flow is blocked, it will do those symptoms you described.

Sounds like a thermistat problem. Check its connections and replace the thermistat.

5,6,7 is a fault code saying the defrost circuit is not working. The unit only goes into defrost about once a day so that explains why it works for a while then comes back.

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

?? ??? ????? ? ???? ?? ????? ??? ?? ??? ? ???? ???? ????? ????? ?? ??? ???? ???? ????? ?? ???? ????? ???? ?? ???. ????? ?? ?? ?? ???? ???? ????? ??? ?? ?? ?? ??? ????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ??? ??? ????? ?? ???.

You just pull it out 12" so the door will open fully.

Happened to me, too. I hadn’t placed the top hinge covers back on after removing the doors to move the fridge. The sensors that tell the fridge the doors are closed are in the hinge covers.