20 Most Recent LG 24 in. LDF 7811 Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher - Page 7 Questions & Answers

go to any used appliance shop and see if they have any for sale or if they can order one for you

I had the same issue with my LDF7811 about 2 years into its life. I replaced the heating element and that took care of it. Not a terribly difficult job, but it will require removal of the dishwasher and dismantling it from the underneath.

Hello anasgsds,
Here is a link so that you can get the service manual http://136.166.4.200/contents/Dishwasher/LDF7811xx/LDF7811xx_Service_Manual.pdf
however if your dishwasher water inlet valve isn;t closing all the way to stop water from filling the wash compartment then that may be your problem. You may have some foreign matter in there and it can't stop water from trickling in even thou the valve is commanded to shut off by the control system. You or someone you know that is handy may be able to shut off your incoming water supply, and gain access to the inlet valve .. remove it and either clean it or replace it from the documentation I've provided.. That would be where I would concentrate my efforts initially. ( assuming that your statement is accurate about not being able to stop water from coming in) In all cases, make sure you remove or disconnect power before performing any service to it.. Let me know if you need further assistance..
Regards,
Rick

Not real sure about the 2H display , I'm inclined to believe it is showing the estimated time for the cycle. As far as the noise, I believe you are on the right track with the water theory, but without hearing it myself I'm not real sure. If it is in the very beginning of the cycle most dishwashers start the cycle with a drain or initial pump out cycle. This is designed to remove any leftover water etc from any previous cycle. Depending on how much water is left over it can make different sounds at the beginning of the cycle. If you have had the unit installed for a while, depending on water conditions(hardness,sediment silt etc.) it is possible that the screen on the inlet valve is clogged or your house water pressure to the valve may not be high enough to completely open the valve. It can be a little tricky to check these yourself, but you would have to turn off the water to the dishwasher check the screen in the valve and then check to see if you have enough water pressure and volume . If you have times when your water pressure might be lower(like when I am filling our koi pond at my house) the water pressure in the rest of my house is lower. At those times it might make some wierd noises while it is filling or might not fill to the proper level. I think I would check on those things before digging into disconnecting water lines and checking screens and stuff. Good Luck and reply back if you have more info that might help us narrow it down for you!

Be sure you use a good powder not liquid deturgent. This should help.

Keep clicking on the "Tags" above, you are sure to come up with something useful........

Can you please tell us the exact model of your dishwasher? What you can try initially is unplug the power cable of your unit for about 10 minutes, then plug it back in. See if that clears the error. Will give you follow up about the E1 error.

Hello Booklice,
Normally a standard base cabinet is 24 inches deep with a 25 inch countertop ( meaning the top extends over the front of the cabinet by 1 inch) That is a typical installtion however there is no right or wrong way to set the dishwasher into cavity between two cabinets. In most installations though the front door of the dishwasher when closed is close to flush with the vertical stiles of the cabinet and does not extend beyond the overhang of the counter. The manufactures method for securing it to the surrounding cabinets will dictate the extent that it can project out. Hope that helps...

Regards

Are you sure it's 1E and not LE error code??  The symptoms you mentioned indicates that it is an LE error code and the motor has an issue.  You will need to call a qualified LG technician to diagnose and resolve the problem.

Hi, had the same problem on a LG LD 12aw5. (No water entering). Check the inlet solonoid. There should be 220V over the solonoid. I replaced the solonoid, at first, just to have the same problem. The problem was a bit more serious, the Triac driving the solonoid burnt out, and the solder on the mainboard keeping the transformer were shot to. I replaced the Triac, soldered the Transformer - and wolla - working. If water enters - but you sill get the IE error it could be the float(checks the water level). This device tells the machine when there is enough water. If this is stuck, the machine will think no water is entering. [email protected] - replace "_dot_" with "." to email me.

Thermistor problems are really very rare.  One thing to look for is a possible broken wire in the door assembly.  Remove the front door panel.  Locate the wire harness.  About 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the door, look for a broken wire.  If no broken wire, look for a kinked wire that may be on the way to being broken.  Once all the broken wires are repaired, the unit should work fine.  If there is no broken wire, then have the thermistor replaced.

THE DRY CYCLE HAS A PORT ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR WITH A BLOWER MOTOR. THE PORT SHOULD OPEN AND THE FAN MOTOR COME ON DURING THE DRY CYCLE TO EVACUATE THE STEAM FROM THE INTERIOR. THE PORT IS OPENED WITH A WAX MOTOR. IF IT FAILS, THE PORT WILL REMAIN CLOSED AND DRYING WILL NOT TAKE PLACE.
TO VERIFY OPERATION, WHEN THE DRY CYCLE STARTS,
WAIT ABOUT 2 MINUTES, THEN OPEN THE DOOR AND LOOK IN THE ROUND VENT ON THE INTERIOR OF THE DOOR. IT SHOULD BE OPENED. IT WILL SLOWLY CLOSE AS THE DOOR REMAINS OPEN. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE THIS ACTION.

ACCORDING TO SERVICE MANUAL, THE "L.E." ERROR CODE SUGGESTS A LOCKED ROTOR ON THE WASH MOTOR. CHECK THE WASH IMPELLER FOR A FOREIGN OBJECT. IF IT SPINS FREELY, CHECK THE WIRING TO THE WASH MOTOR FOR LOOSE CONNECTION.
THE L.G.HAS HAD A HISTORY OF MOTOR PROBLEMS.

YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO CANCEL THE PROGRAM AND DRAIN OUT THE WATER.

Does it a brand new dishwasher ?

LE means motor failure.. but the motor has been replaced

Check whether you have 115/220V on pump's tags. In case you can't read 115/220V on pump's tags, your problem could be the water level switch. The switch level is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. I am not familiar with this specific machine, but if you will open the rear panel you will find it easily. Clear tube first from any obstruction, In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable !!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it doesn't react, you should replace it. Good luck !

welcome to the wonderful world of LG. try calling for service a service company should be able to order them and mail them to you.

you have to pull the dishwasher out from the opening to access the pump.sounds like a possible seal in the pump,leaking supply line, or where the water drain is at the pump.the problem with lg is you only can get parts from lg.com...i would pull out the dishwasher and while it's out,try to run it to isolate the leak.good luck

This is normal and the amount of water can depend on how soon after the cycle has finished as to how much condensation is on the walls.

It has run out of salt or the sensor is blocked.