Nikon D200 Body Only Digital Camera - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What do you mean when you say pin, What are you trying to Do ?

I don't think it has image stabilization. If you use a tripod, stabilization is not important. If not, you can increase your shutter speed to compensate. Vivitar makes fair quality lenses, but you have a Nikon. I presume that you bought your Nikon because you want top quality images. If it is a matter of money, I would wait until I could afford a Nikon lens. As an alternative, consider used Nikon lenses. I generally carry a 10-24 mm DX, 28-105mm and 70-300 mm and a 60mm macro when I travel and it works well.

Is you camera plugged into you computer. If so, you cannot format the card from the camera, unless it is unplugged. This just happened to me (I was about to look for a bent pin). Unplugging solved the problem.

on the D200 there is no auto sensor clean.

replace bulb. if u r using external flash plz use ineternal flash also some time to keep it safe

"p" is program mode. "a" is for auto.

If you're shooting: ISO 100, f1.4 @ 1/1000 second, it is the same as:
ISO 200, f1.4 @ 1/2000 second, or
ISO 400, f1.4 @ 1/4000 second, etc.. Because each time you double the ISO value, you need 1/2 the light for a proper exposure. The ISO is the camera sensor (or film) "sensitivity to light". The higher the ISO, the more sensitive it is. That's why in the examples above, the shutter is opened 1/2 as long (or it is twice as fast - whichever you like to look at it). But it doesn't stop there..

That same ISO 100, f1.4 @ 1/1000 second picture is also the same as:
ISO 100, f2.0 @ 1/2000 second, or
ISO 100, f2.8 @ 1/1000 second, or
ISO 100, f4.0 @ 1/500 second, etc.. This is because each FULL f-stop (1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11, 16, 22 and 32) each allow TWICE as much light than the previous (higher f-stop number). f1.4 allows 2x more light than 2.0, which allows 2x more than 2.8 which allows 2x more than 4.0, and so on. So, if you get twice the light from one aperture than the previous full f-stop, and the ISO is the same, then the length of time the shutter is open must be reduced by 1/2. Hence, 1/500 is half as long as 1/1000, which is half as long as /12000, etc.

It can be represented like the exposure triangle below:

All this shows is that all three variables control the exposure. If your main objective is to change the Depth of Field (DoF), adjust Aperture and one or more of the others to get a properly exposed picture. Likewise, if you want to suggest or stop motion, you'd adjust shutter speed first - faster to stop the motion or slower to suggest motion by creating blur. ISO introduces grain to the image. The lower the the ISO value, the finer the grain is (may not even be perceptible). The smoothest color gradients come from the lowest ISO values - but they need to most light. A tripod may be needed unless shooting in direct sunlight or other brightly lit subject. ISO is a lifesaver for poorly lit subjects, night time photography, or other indoor shooting without a tripod or speedlight. The ability to shoot good looking pictures at ISO 3200 means that you need only 1/32 of the light needed when shooting at ISO 100. That means that under the right circumstances, you could hand hold the camera at ISO 3200 when the same picture taken at ISO 100 would take 32x longer. Of course, grain comes into the mix here. It may be too grainy for your likes. Experiment to how high you can set your ISO with acceptable results.

Below is a chart of the full shutter speeds, stops and ISO values. Many cameras break these down further into 1/3 steps for even more minute control. Basically, if you change the value of either shutter speed, f-stop or ISO values 1, 2, 3, 6, 9 - or however many steps - you need to adjust one or both of the others an equivalent amount to compensate to get a properly exposed picture.



Lastly, make sure you haven't set exposure compensation to a negative value. Press and hold the the "+/-" button (has a green dot) on the top panel next to the shutter release button. Spin the rear thumb dial so that it is niether plus or minus. Minus makes the picture dark (underexposed) and Plus makes it brighter (overexposed).

I hope this was helpful and good luck! Please rate my reply - thanks!

Take a look at my tips at
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9715792-flashing_photos_nikon_camera

It sounds like you have manually adjusted the aperture on the lens, letting less light in and hence a dark image in the viewfinder.

looking at the camera "face-on" at the front, to the right of were the lens mounts (at about 5 'o'clock) there is a small lever with the letters "M", "S" & "C" these stand for "manual", "single" and "continuous" with reference to the auto focus. Set generally to "S" for normal and "C" for sports or movement photography and "M" for "manual".

hope this helps.

You're apparently using a lens with an aperture ring. Turn it to its smallest aperture (largest f/number). You control the aperture from the camera body, the same way as on a lens without an aperture ring.

If the lens doesn't have an aperture ring, clean the electrical contacts on the back of the lens and in the lens mount.

Hi.

In USA use the repair form here.

In any other country contact Nikon support to locate the nearest service centre. To find the contact in your country see: Nikon - Worldwide Network.

You can also get a quote on repair and ship your camera using this form:Repair.

Regards.

Ginko

The flash on the camera is being used to throw light for the lens to focus, unless the flash has a setting / the camera has a setting to fix this.... I would assume this as a normal behaviour.

Just to be sure that i'm thinking the same lines as you - your flashes that happen while focusing will be short bursts and when you take the final image you still have a significantly higher powered flash.

The focus ring inside the camera is a free-spinning lens that is controlled by electromagnets, with feedback from the microprocessor and sensor. When some dust, lint, sand, or dirt works it's way into the lens assembly, the ring can hang up, which is probably what's happening in your case. You can try to blow out the lens assembly with compressed air ($4 at Walmart) to see if you can free it up. If this doesn't work, you will have to have it serviced. You can try to gently bump the camera to free it up, also.
Take it into a local repair shop for an estimate, or contact Nikon Support on the web.
Good luck, and hope this helps.

If sent directly to Nikon, you should expect somewhere around $300 for a replacement shutter and will likely take 1-3 weeks.

Heres a link to a site that has then for around 18$ plus shipping. http://www.sdcamerasolution.com/index.php?p=product&id=84&parent=21
Hope this helps.
-Rp-

No. I think its unusual

Sorry to hear about your camera. Hope you already fixed it. If not, could you please precise what lens are you using? What are the precise description of the last "black out"? Please try to be as precise as possible(Circumstances/Was it inside or outside/Light condition/moisture/Any peripheral devices connected etc.)

Patti, replacing switches requires the outer case to be dismantled and a job for a service person. I don't know where you are in this world but the D200 is still a good camera and well worth the dollars to repair it. If it were one of mine I would send it back to Nikon or a Nikon authorized repair center.
Probably not the answer you wanted but working on these cameras isn't like changing a light bulb.

Dear Sir e_jamandre, probably the connector memory card has one or more bent pins or cracked solder.
The worst thing would be that the memory compression circuit is damaged.
Greetings