Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

unfamiliar with watt restrictors.
heat strips have 2 safety devices, a thermal overload, they get to hot they shut off, cause not enough air flow increase fan speed this device is auto reset. a fusible link a fail safe to thermal over load, no reset and sometimes replaceable. if this does not help would like to ask you a few questions. one of the buildings i take care of has 200 + reem/ ruuds all electric heat. if a part is defective replace, please do not by pass. safety frist.

it sounds like unit could be kicking out the low pressure switch or if it is a electric furnace it could be the sequincers

If sold in the USA in the last five years the answer is yes.

The blower speed can be changed somewhat the same way , but it will have to be rewired using one of the extra capped wires for a lower speed. That is if the other wires were not clipped and just capped

Ruud UBHC-SERIES is a HEAT PUMP AIR HANDLERAND FAN COIL UNIT Compressor and condenser not includedSpec sheet go herehttp://yaunco.com/pdfs/rheem/ubhc_specs.pdf

It sounds like you have a unit called a heat pump. When a heat pump unit is in cooling mode the outside unit blows hot air and the inside unit blows cold air. If the outside unit is blowing cold then the indoor unit is most likely blowing room temperature or warm air. It sounds like the thermostat could be controlling incorrectly or you could have a failed reversing valve which is the device that switches the unit from heating to cooling mode.

If you push the contactor and it runs why replace all that stuff??? You have to figure out where your 24 volts stops on its way to the condenser contactor. wire red green and yellow together at tstat, this should bring on indoor fan and condenser. if idf runs but cu does not you have an issue either going outside or a pressure switch is tripped. if nothing runs you have no 24, either a blown fuse, tripped float or bad transformer. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Send direct power to the blower by bypassing relay . See if motor runs If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Whew... Most likely... Your part number (look it up) RUUD 47-25349-?? (LIKE: 02, 03, 07... etc). (typically: $10 -$20 range... easy job) On eBay: A bit slow getting this answer out on the table... Sorry anonymous. BUT for the "over-temp" condition... Forget the wall THERMOSTAT. There's usually a switch to option the "DEPTH" of your heating cycle (Look up Owners GUIDE for your SPECIFIC MODEL). The "cool down"... (if there is one) would more likely be you heaters OWN (fan) THERMOSTAT... It SHOULD not be getting that much RESIDUAL heat (possible plenum failure... but hopefully just the switch). Here you have to ask yourself... Is IT TIME to get your heater PROFESSIONALLY inspected... Pacific Gas & Electric used to do that for FREE... (but in this new, improved UTILITY climate we enjoy today... I doubt they''ll do more than TAKE OUT a few blocks in SAN BRUNO for FREE anymore... (you might want to check... (Same DEDIATED workers w/ really poor Management)). (My opinion: FAT CAT, CRONY, bought & well-paid EVIL/corrupt Government "oversight" (CPUC)). There SHOULD also be a HIGH TEMP fuel shut off "SAFETY" thermostats.. All these should only be handled with skill & knowledge... as GAS APPLIANCES can be quite dangerous in the WRONG HANDS...!! I am just saying...!! I'm here daily... Comment me back if unclear. Happy hunting. Carnac the Magnificent Y

Hello bikejocky, MOST LIKELY you have a "hot surface" element with a tiny crack in it... About 25 years ago... I put one of my poor abused fingers on the element to see if it was at all warm... In so doing I touched the spot where the crack was... and it did INDEED have a full 120 volt, 60 cycle AC current waiting for my FINGER to complete the circuit... (not a recommended procedure) My 25 year old RHEEM... finally kicked it. I keep spares... and bought 2 more when I used the last Since these parts are pretty cheap... I get spares 62 22868 93 Rheem 62 22868 93 Hot Surface Ignitor Take a look... There are two basic configurations The WISEST APPROACH is to use a "meter" to verify the "line current" is present (not finger) and check the "SURFACE" for continuity. Once you copy the number DIRECTLY from YOUR OWN part... look it up... internet... eBay and AMAZON (like Robert Shaw #41-408). http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROBERTSHAW-41-408-Hot-surface-ignitor-NORTON-271N-/121727955205?hash=item1c578d3105:m:mJR3I8e9mTI60A-dtmvdVrw >> It is the plug & mount that is important...!! (consider that spare you always wanted (If you get it... you will probably never need it)). ~~ The cycling limit & fan (never touched a RUUD... (so... I presume)) is to clear accumulated GAS FUMES to avoid any explosive situations. I do know RHEEM... (ERGO... I have every confidence) ((RHEEM & RUUD, in my opinion, are design twins)). Carnac the Magnificent

Very impressive!! This button you are referring to is a contactor. When your tstat calls for cooling it sends 24 volts out to the contactor therefore pulling the contactor in completing the circuit for the fan and compressor. Usually this doesn't work when a safety switch is preventing the 24 from getting to the contactor. Either it's not getting a signal from the tstat or one of your safeties are tripping (high or low pressure) or the float switch on your drain line at the air handler is wired in to only stop the condenser from working rather than the tstat. A multimeter would be extremely helpful for you to determine where the voltage is stopping. Check your drain first, I don't suggest your patented rock idea, it's not running because of a safety. Good Luck , let me know!! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

The evaporation cooler tray can get build up of dust and debris and plug the drain..

Not a furnace guy but I do know that your drain should be insulated. Gotta figure out if it's water from the drain leaking or actual condensation dripping from the outside. If sweat, it needs insulated. Good Luck. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Check breaker for outside unit Also check to see if you ahve afloat switch on the inside air handler. Located under or in front of unit. It may be full of water and tripped. Blow out drain if tripped.

going off on safety. could be drawing to many amps or compressor overheating

thermostat, relay or heating element issue

change motor.

yes

not really you have to remove coil to replace pan. if there is room you can abandon that pan and put another under it.