20 Most Recent Polaroid FLM-3232 Television - Page 3 Questions & Answers


How to restore sound on your Poaroid flm3232 LCD TV

With perfect video but no audio, I first tried Restoring Global unlock but it did not work. Then I plugged in headphones to side of Polaroid flm3232 and got sound! Then I took my 2 stereo external speakers from my computer and plugged them into the side of the tv and got perfect sound..better than from the original internal speakers of the Polaroid....Easy instant fix AND didn't have to spend a lot of money by taking it to a repair shop. Good luck anyone who has the same probllem.

on Oct 29, 2011 | Polaroid FLM-3232 Television

After factory reset all the settings of the tv will goto factory default. To get the video again you have to auto tune the TV. For the go to the menu and select setup then select Auto program. Wait till the auto tuning end.

Polaroid... | Answered on Sep 23, 2011

HZK Series

Silicon Epitaxial Planar Zener Diodes for

Stabilized Power Supply

open the following link and it help you it has all the detail about the mentioned diode

Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 26, 2011

Your TVs T'Con board [video display board whic controls the pixels of the screen] is damaged. There will be tow flat strp wires goes from this board to the display panel. Flip off these tow flat cables out from its sockets and reinsert them back again as it was. If the fault is due to any loose connection to the socet the fault will be cleard out. If it does not help you, replace this board with same type and number.
This board can be located at the bottom center part of the screen, normally covered with a metal shield to prevent it from external electrical interference. The picture of the board is given here. OK.


Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 11, 2011

Problem will be in the T-Con Board.
Encompass Parts Distribution 1-800-638-3328
Look for parts on Shopjimmy.com
EBay is another place for parts.

Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 06, 2011

The resistor values can be calculated by means of the color-coded bands that are printed on them. This color code chart will be of great help
http://media.photobucket.com/image/resistor color code chart/Live4soccer7/360fullres/resistor_color_code_chart.jpg
If you have any trouble calculating it, please get me the pictures of the resistors so that I can calculate it for you.

Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 03, 2011

You may have dry capacitors in the signal board. If you do pull the signal board out (has all the rca and rf connections) look for the smallest electrolytic capacitors. These small babies may test good in circuit, when in fact they are not. They will be easy to find as they are the shortest and are located next to the larger capacitor,or capacitors. This work is very time consuming and not a one day project. Take your time. Once again an ESR meter may not find these bad caps. You will have to remove those you suspect and replace with fresh caps. The other thing is to inspect the power supply board, as the inverters are located here. I have had no problems in this area yet. Thanks for asking and show all hands of support!

Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 03, 2011

I have a good but with green tint on a polaroid tv model number 64SX505Y-DC02

Polaroid... | Answered on Aug 03, 2011

I had the same thing happen to me a time or two and after extensive troubleshooting I found a simple solution which will hopefully work for you as well- at least in the short run:
Unplug the TV for 30 seconds or so. Then plug it in and try again.
Unfortunately you're probably going to eventually run into the same problem that I'm having now- the TV won't turn on or even light the indicator. I'm guessing it's a short somewhere that caused both issues which slowly escalated. I'm going to be working on that soon to see if I can just replace a fuse.

Polaroid... | Answered on Jul 09, 2011

In case of FLM-3232 this can be both the main board and the power board.

I'd say the odds are in your favor that it is the power board - this is the more common scenario.

If you test the board and find that it produces proper primary voltage, though, then the problem is in the main board.

This is also curable sometimes, but unfortunately at least presently we do not offer a repair service for it.

For more details see here:



Hope this helps!

Polaroid... | Answered on Jun 24, 2011

The most likely reason for this is puffed up filter capacitors in the power supply.

All modern TV sets (including yours) have what is called a "standby" power supply inside; it is active all the time (even when the set is off) and this is an area where to save money they use cheaper parts.

The caps are rated for a given value and for VOLTAGE; most standby power supplies are about 12 volts although it varies from set to set; put in 12 volt rated caps and the heat from constant use dries them out in a year or two.

The reason this is done is if you make 10,000 sets the difference in cost from 12 volt rated (or less) caps versus 16 or 25 volt rated caps in production is a nice amount of money---they do not care it will fail as long as it lasts at least a year.

This is common also in desktop computer towers: I will attach in a few minutes a photo of typical looking cap----note the top is silver with creases and should be ABSOLUTELY FLAT.

A visual look at the caps on the power board (follow power cord to it) will show if this is the problem; I have had sets where several were puffed up and gradually it got harder and harder to turn set on and or get it to stay on.

Caps that are in this condition will tend to try to work when they get hot, hence after the set is on for a while it stays on.

Buying another power board if this is the problem only buys you some time, it will in the future do the same thing----the solution if this is the problem is to replace the caps with high quality ones rated at a HIGHER voltage-----all the caps will have the value in Uf (micro farad) and the voltage rating (vdc-voltage direct current) marked on them and have a + and - marked for positive and negative side.

The caps are all with 2 leads, with the board out a fairly easy repair--you can see which are bad and the values are printed on them.


Polaroid... | Answered on Jun 15, 2011

check the setting

Polaroid... | Answered on Apr 17, 2011


Polaroid... | Answered on Mar 21, 2011


If your device does not respond to the remote after trying all codes listed for your brand, or if your brand is not listed, try

searching for your code:

1. Press a device key once.

2. Press and hold SET until the red LED blinks twice; then release.

3. Enter 9-9-1, then the device group number (0= Cable, 1= TV, 2= VCR, 3= Audio). The LED blinks twice.

4. Aim the remote at the device and press Power. The remote sends IR codes from its library to the selected device,

starting with the most popular code first. If the device responds, go to step 7.

5. If the device does not respond, press CH+. The remote will try the next code. Continue until the device responds.

Note: Press CH- to try the previous code.

6. To search for other device codes, repeat steps 1 to 5.
7. Press SET to save and exit.

If you have set up the remote using the procedure in "Searching for Your Code", you may need to find out which four-digit

code is operating your equipment.

For example, to find out which code is assigned to your TV:
1. Press TV once.

2. Press and hold SET until the red LED blinks twice; then release.

3. Enter 9-9-0. The LED blinks twice.

4. To view the code for the first digit, press 1. Count the LED blinks (for example, three blinks = 3), and write down

the number in the appropriate code listing in step 8 under "Programming a Device".

NOTE: If a code digit is 0, the LED does not blink.

5. Repeat step 4 for the four remaining digits, using 2 for the second digit, 3 for the third digit, 4 for the fourth digit,

and 5 for the fifth digit.
6. To check for other device codes, repeat steps 1-5, substituting the device key for TV

Polaroid... | Answered on Mar 19, 2011

Hello, you probably already have gotten this resolved, but I do have some answers to your post. Any cable that you have running from TV1 to the TV2 will nor give you a true HD picture. You could get a CAT5 cable with HDMI ends, but the longer the cable, the less true HD you have. The best resolution to this is to get an additional receiver, or to just stick with the SD picture. If you have any more questions, feel free to e-mail me at becki.barned@dishnetwork.com, or you can find us on Twitter!

Becki Barned
DISH Network Customer Service

Polaroid... | Answered on Feb 04, 2011

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