20 Most Recent Whirlpool 24 in. GU3200XTP Built-in Dishwasher - Page 5 Questions & Answers

My dishwasher will not start: Most common d/w power is 120 volts, check for 120 volts with a volt meter at the main power harness where it enters into the dishwasher, you will have to remove the lower access panels to get to the power box. Dishwashers also have at least one and most newer dishwashers have two door switches that must be checked. You will find then behind the console at the door latch area. Each manufacture has different designs.

Something simple to check is the drain hose. I am an installer and have seen this many times and people will buy a new dishwasher after putting in a new garbage disposal. If you did, did you remove the knock out plug from the disposal? Next, remove the drain hose end from under the sink and try sucking the water out with a wet/dry vac. All the water from the dishwasher should easily be sucked out from any dishwasher except a GE brand. If not, your drain hose is clogged.

Water is being forced out under the bottom door seal. Is the lower spray arm melted on the bottom? Or is there something directing the water flow toward the bottom of the tub instead of up toward the dishes?

The starting capacitor may be bad but more likely the motor is stuck with a bone fragement or it is a bad motor.

check the small drain pump

replace float switch

Hello,
For resetting your whirlpool quiet partner III dishwasher, follow the steps below.

1.press the keys HEATED DRY - NORMAL - HEATED DRY - then NORMAL again in sequence within 5 seconds.
2. All the lights should come on and it will begin a diagnostic cycle.
3. Either let it run, or press cancel and the board will be reset.

Please rate the solution.
Good luck!


~regards,
Jegan

Try jigling the ribbon cable that is connected to the control panel. These ribbon cables sometimes fail. Also check the fuse on the control board to see if it is blown.

Could be either the keypad is faulty or the control board is bad.

Make sure the sani cycle is not selected, or pots and pans, also with the dry cycle most will take about 2 hours, if your dishes are not that dirty use the short cycle. Be sure your water is at least 130 F. Run hot water at faucet before starting the machine.

Check to see if the water is getting hot during this time, if not then the heater is probably not working, could be bad heater, bad door switch or bad heater relay on the control board.

Check to see that the water is turned on to dishwasher. If so then your fill valve is likely not working. To confirm check to see if you are getting 120v ac to the fill valve with a multimeter with the dishwasher trying to fill. If voltage is present then the fill valve is bad.

Make sure you have power to the dishwasher, check circuit breaker. If circuit breaker is ok, then remove toe panel at bottom front of machine, on the right hand side is where the power cable goes into a little metal box. Turn off circuit breaker to kill power to the dishwasher, remove electrical box cover and check to make sure that the wire nuts are tight. Reapply power and test. If still no go then remove tech service sheet from toe panel insulation, get yourself a multi-meter and start test individual components until you find the one that is bad. Hope this helps.

Bits of black plastic are probably the impeller, sounds like something got caught in there and destroyed the impeller. If you are handy then you can buy an impeller kit and fix it, if you are not handy then I would recommend buying a motor and pump assembly and just replace the whole thing as one unit. Impeller kits are less than $40, while the motor and pump kit is more like $130. Hope this helps.

Sounds like a bad heating element, or bad door switch, or bad heater relay. You need to buy a multi-meter if you don't have one to troubleshoot which component is bad. And yes you can fix this. Also make sure you have hot water going to the dishwasher.

I believe its pressing heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal keys withing 6 seconds. There should be a tech sheet attached to the toe panel at the bottom front of the machine.

Sounds like the hose assembly that attaches to the rear of the upper rack has come undone. just pull out the upper rack and reconnect it.

please rate my answer as a fixya! thanks.

The illusive technical repair sheet that isn't there...

Turn the thing a little further and pull UP. It'll come out. You've got to put some muscle into it!

The manual for the GU1000/1200/1500 is here (it's almost the same and as close as I can get you to a 3200)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/52521bdbd0ef763c85256cbc00520548/$FILE/8178022.pdf

Jeremy

Your drain pump might be bad/disconnected. Check the underside of your machine for disconnected wires.

It could very well be the wash pump motor starting to fail. It could also be something as simple as food and debris clogging the intake to the pump. The main wash pump is used to circulate water during the wash cycle. If the intake to this pump is clogged with debris, it can exhibit louder than usual noise during operation and lower water pressure. This particular model also has a chopper assembly just prior to the pump intake. This chopper can dice up some food particles, but cannot process things like popcorn kernels, tough pieces of meat, celery, etc. Basically, anything hard, fibrous, or tough. If you go to searspartsdirect.com, theres an illustration of the pump assembly under the "Pump and Motor Parts" heading. The chopper is item(s) number 6 & 8. If anything gets caught in the chopper it will not provide enough water flow for the main wash pump. Double check the pump sump reservoir and make sure it is all clean. If it still exhibits the same symptoms, the motor may be damaged. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.