20 Most Recent Whirlpool GHW9400 Duet Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. You do need to check the motor drive. Make sure the belt is not slipping or worn. That could be the case. It may be wearing out as you have suggested. You just need to get to it and determine the cause.

Hi,
Here is a tip about how to clean your washer

Howto have a Clean Washer

heatman101

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

Most likely the water inlet valves on your washing machine have failed. You may have noticed larger amounts of water in the clothes drum when the washing machine hasn't been used for a few days, this is because the valves may still be open allowing water to drip into the clothes drum.

Here is a link to the part that you need to buy: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/WHIRLPOOL-Washer-water-inlet-valve--universal-item-number-AP3098982.aspx.

And a link to a video showing you how to replace the part: http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/video/appliance_repair/water-inlet-valve.php
Hope this helps!

Hi

This is quite simple you take your door seal off the front portion of your panel take two screws off holding the door switch , i beleive the tool you need is a torx20. Once you have it unplug quick connect wires and reverse procedure for installation.

TY
Luigi

with nothing it it put one of the flippers at the 12 o'clock area and push up and down. if it clunks and it prob. will the rear bearing is going bad, the more it moves the more bad it is. if it is the case its time for a new washer. the repair of the unit will be more then its worth.

Hi, I've had that same problem. The problem is the CCU circuit board inside at the top, back of the machine. There are cold solder joints on the circuit board where the relays and spade connectors are supposed to be soldered to the underside of the board (poor quality control at Whirlpool) You'll need to remove the circuit board and have the spots touched-up. The inputs to the circuitboard housing are keyed but it's still best to tag which wire goes where. You will break a few tabs on the housing when you take it apart (poor plastic choice by Whirlpool) It's best to remove the entire assembly then take the board out when your at the table cursing Whirlpool. If your up for the task great! if not, just print out this response and have a service person do it or take out the whole assembly and let a good appliance repair shop do it, it's up to you. This repair will also take care of an FdL code. Once the board is out the repair takes about 15 minutes. After completing mine the machine hasn't missed a beat in two years. Good Luck

This code means the machine is taking too long to drain. It can be caused by a clog or a broken drain pump. You will need to remove the bottom front panel and access the drain pump. Open the clean-out to check for any obstructions. If there are none, the pump will need to be replaced. You can purchase one at, http://www.reliableparts.com/ using your model number.

There are a few different reasons you're getting this condition. Insted of me writing a rambling explanation, try taking off the lower valance on the machine (the large panel below the door) it's held on by three screws at the bottom. Inside the machine on the right side should be the technicians trouble shooting guide. Take it out and look through it, it should give you some info on your problem. Good luck.

its a washing machine built be a man so its none to smart you have confused it to much by asking it twice to do the same job,,,,,,try turning it off then give it time to forget the last job you give it to do, turn it back on and tell it to rince and spin,, that may help it get its drain back in the box?

Hi

This is a tachometer error. This can be resolved by following this procedure--
1. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers and cables are removed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
6. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.

Disconnect all the connectors and reconnect them one at a time, it will resolve your issue. Hope this helps... If it does please do not forget to accept the solution or post back for assistance.

Daniel

Hi, DL means Door Lock Failure while F is either (F80, 82,
84, 85).....
DL flashes if the following conditions occur:

• Door lid is not closed completely due to interference.
• Wash media buildup is preventing the lock bolt from extending.
• Machine/motor control detects open door lid switch when attempting to lock.
• Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lid is in a locked state.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question()**%

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question&^%$#

It appears your drive belt/coupling has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.*(&(*

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.*&^%

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!!

The FH code in the owners manual talks of a water supply.The F/H code means the unit isn't detecting water fill at the flowmeter. The flow-meter sits just in front of inlet valve and is attached via a hose, and off to the left of the CCU. If your washer is filling ok, check the wiring from the flow meter to the control board; I've seen this harness jiggle loose and cause problems. check figure for flow-meter location.
No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.

Or

If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.



Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

• If there is no water in the unit:
  1.Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
  2.Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
  3.Verify inlet valve operation
• If there is water in the unit:
  1.Verify Drain pump operation
  2.Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
• Verify there is not a siphon problem
• Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check all hoses for possible leaks
• Verify pressure switch operation
  
• Verify flow meter operation
• Verify CCU operation.

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.