If you are absolutely sure that the vent is perfectly clear, then the device that shuts off unit due to overheating is going off prematurely. Go to attached site for part involved and get a new one. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts
Make sure both hot wires in your 220 voltage are live. If yes, replace heater core. Clean surfaces of all thermistors. Check fan housing for thermistors also. Make sure fan is solid and secure to axel.
On a Whirlpool, it has been for me the coils are broken...it can be fixed by undoing the belt, 'popping' the top pnl up with a screwdriver, lean the front pnl down then move the drum forward to get to the coils. You MUST use a crimp type connector as these are nickle wire and won't solder easily. Saves a lot of money and will run forever. Definitly unplug it first! Duh!
Its very hard testing without a test meter.. volts and ohms.
The Casing & heater is on the right side facing the back of the dryer. Metal silver in color, the heater is inside of the caseing.
You can take the heater out and look for broken
coils on the heater to see if it needs replacing.
You have a to lift the top up to get at the top screw of the heater casing, take the 2 screws out of the flap where the lint filter goes.
Use a putty knife to push the clips in on the front of the dryer and look to the back on the left side to remove the top screw of the casing.
check the heater a post results..
theres many more things to check if the heater is good.
Thermal fuse , is the small white plastic piece on the blower box . That , keeps the dryer from running . Thermal cut-off , is the small thermostat on the burner (element) box , which would keep the dryer from heating .
I agree with fly. we stored a new dryer one time and I stuffed a bag in exhaust to keep out rodents, then forgot about it. still under warrenty guy came out laughed said easiest repair he ever did. glad I made him happy, but if not it check your heating coils, easy replace and plug in, the whole box unbolts. good luck!
Electric dryer no start does nothing
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.
CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.
NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.
If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.
Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.
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DOES IT START RIGHT AWAY OR ABOUT AN HOUR LATER? IF LATER U MAY HAVE A BAD MOTOR WINDINGS PROBLEM? OR A BAD CYLING THERMOSTAT, MOISTER SENSOR NOT DETECTING DRYNESS OR DETECTING DRYNESS WHEN ITS NOT DRY?
you have a bad motor,if you open the door,hold the door switch in with one hand and spin the drum with the other and have someone else push the start button on and if by helping it to spin it starts usually the motor is bad but i did find on the maytag neptune style dryer that the belt cut into the belt pulley and was holding up the drum and the motor was buzzing like it was bad but like i say usually it's the motor.next time send the brand name and model number and i can help you out better.
From inside dryer hold blower wheel with wrench that fits the squre part of blower wheel turn motor shaft clockwise should loosen the blower wheel............
The back doesn't come off. The top pops up. It's held down with clips. Pry under the top it'll pop up from the front. Hinges in the back. Next the front is screwed on. If you take that off you'll have access to everything inside
Is door shut good ? Check door switch push it in and see if you can hear it click. Check power at outlet then where it goes into the dryer. Check start switch and voltage coming out of the timer. Check voltage to motor. If voltage to motor you will need a motor.
Unplug power cord & pull the back off and use ohm meter to
to check the heating element also check if the element is ground to the heater box. Check the thermal fuse, the cutout fuse & thermostat on the heater box. Check the operating thermostat and any others you see. Last check the centrifucal switch on the motor the heating wire goes through it. To check this switch connect ohm meter to terminals it will show open unless motor is running so take a screwdriver & lift up on switch button then it should show continuity. Hope this helps
the spot you are looking at i assume its on the left rear upper corner, of the back panel when looking inside the dryer, well its not rust i see this often, its the grill were the heat comes out and gets very hot so any lint or anything that touvhes it will burn on and after some time it looks like rust.
I posted a reply earlier tonight and most dryers are similar in construction. You should be able to get access to the heating element but first perform the following inspection:
Many dryers don't dry if the internal exhaust chute becomes full of lint. What most people do not realize is that pulling the vent screen out and cleaning it (and possibly even using those miraculous vent brushes to reach inside) is synonymous only removing the "tip from an iceberg".
If you are fairly confident in using some basic hand tools. I can almost guarantee that if you disconnect the dryer's power cord from the wall and remove the vent hose from the back, you are at the beginning point of removing ALL the lint from the dryer. Use a hex nut driver or a screwdriver to remove the screws from the back of the dryer to inspect the area where the exhaust chute is that leads to the area where the vent hose is connected. (Be sure to "count" the number of screws and put them into a tin can or other retaining device to keep from losing any of them). You should be able to see the entire compartment once you open it. Carefully loosen the screws holding the exhaust chute as you will probably find plenty of hidden lint inside. Don't be surprised to find enough lint inside including the blower wheel to fill an average plastic grocery bag! Many dryer fires start in this area because most people do not know that so much lint collects there. I highly recommend that this easily accomplished task is done about one a year to keep the exhaust chute clean. It only takes about an hour to do the job very completely. Use a flashlight to inspect the entire area. You will be able to see the heating element inside the exhaust chute. If there is a broken heating element inside, the heating element will have a "break" in the wire. There is also a thermostat attached to the chute. Be sure to mark any wires inside before disconnecting them. Once you put the exhaust chute back together, test it again. If the dryer still does not heat, (and the heating element is not broken), the thermostat could be bad. Performing this inspection once a year is also good fire prevention maintenance. I am very curious about how much lint you find and if this fixed your problem. Please send me a reply. Thank You!
Thermal fuse bad . Take back of machine apart and see small white thin part one screw holding it and two wires.Test continuity.Or could be broken belt.see if drum turns easy when you push around from inside the door opening. if some resistance then most likly thermal fuse.
Check for wires that could have vibrated off, or been reconnected when someone was working on the unit.If that does not work, or is not the case, then your mode selection switch may have taken a dump. Try using a USED switch or if you want to spend the money, buy a new one.Good luck,Kindly,Jim
