20 Most Recent Asko W620 Questions & Answers

No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.

WATER INLET VALVE

YOU REPLACED THE MOTOR? WASTED UR MONEY TRY TESTING THE WATER INLET VALVE

Check the door locking pin is not broken. If it's OK, you can try to give it a dash of spray lube in the locking hole.

Could be faulty hinge/lid lock...but although it seems silly, have seen occasion where a door will simply not close because the dryer had a filter that was placed in the unit backwards.

Please check this link for spares: Toshiba

I would use a voltmeter and test the power to the element. If there is power than the element is probably bad.

Hello Alain, welcome to FixYa.

May I ask which fuse you refer to when mentioning you have indeed "checked the fuse" ? Are you alluding to the fuses at the back of the washer ? Let me know and I'll try to assist you in any manner I can going forward.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Sounds like the motor brushes need to be cleaned or replaced. Take the back off the washer, remove the motor and gently scrape the excess carbon or debris off the brushes with a pocket knife. I did this and it ran well for about 50 loads before building back up. I am ordering new brushes now because when I checked the brushes last week they were obviously worn more than 4 weeks ago.