20 Most Recent Maytag MFI2568A Side by Side French Door Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Best to look first only if its a strange not to find problem in the repair help link, if there is a rest of time for made warranty on the product. if this trouble was come up inbetween 2 years in age of use. If bought a refridgerator then can you assume that there is an average life of between 10 and 17 years on without problem but only a bulb as usual. Some suggested brands to compare like Siemens Marynen Panasonic (in Europe) as choice there is no problem to reach that lifetime in the usual above average pricelines in recommended models on the market. Panasonic has an budgetliner models of products (made by a Turkey company named Vestel) And General Electric can be even a best option in these days with a long lifetime but its not normal that some brands are made for troubles by having by other brands having license build budgetline models on the market for some competitors (not knowing if this refridgerator Brand can be suggested sometimes have competion butgedliner models made in the P.R.C Turkey Maleisia or Italia or somewhere else maybe from Italia Wirlpool If there where marketing technical options made for extra troubles to help people for extra charge, sometimes with a special phonenumber its important in this case that the dealer where you bought this that they will solve that for you. Becareful to not contact only the seller from the shop in most case they have get wrong info get about that kind of products , because the representative of the brand (salesman of the brand) They salesmans Representatives usually go free for wrong recommendation with false promises to the dealer in case of recommending budgetline products,purchasing organizations are the sales market in almost all cases the seller is the bitten dog by law, and often unjustified. thats my opinion. But when its an second hand bought product or boucht from an cash and carry store or second hand then there is this link with an trouble shooting help as comfort. Maytag Refrigerator MFI2568AEBTroubleshooting Repair Help

i fixed the problem with my fridge i hope it will work with everyone best of all at no cost unplug the fridge and plug it back in do this four times back to back leave it pluged in on the fourth time and then hold the light and lock button for three seconds it seems to reset and work fine i hope this is a cure and would really like to know if this helps [email protected]

the solution is to replace the High Voltage Board. It's 149.99 usually. part number is 12920710. Call me if you want one. My cell number is 516-650-6167.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

You have a solenoid switch which switches the dispenser back and forth from crushed to cube. It could be stuck or not working or the parts connecting it could be disconnected or broken. You will have to observe to see if any parts are moving and if any noise is coming from the solenoid. Crushed ice is the default position and the solenoid is energized to cube ice.
Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.
Here is a DIAGRAM of your ice bucket assembly which includes the crusher which may help.

You have a solenoid switch which switches the dispenser back and forth from crushed to cube. It could be stuck or not working or the parts connecting it could be disconnected or broken. You will have to observe to see if any parts are moving and if any noise is coming from the solenoid. Crushed ice is the default position and the solenoid is energized to cube ice.
Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.

i would check for a blocked line,, do u have the water on if so then ur fill valve (where the house water line attaches) may be defective, some models have two depends i would start there, if that is okay then might have a bad im assembly

To connect the water supply using a plastic hose kit to the MBB1954G UNIT, you can follow these steps: Turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Remove the old hose from the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator. Attach the new plastic hose to the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator. Make sure the hose is not kinked or twisted. Tighten the fittings with an adjustable wrench. Turn on the water supply valve and check for leaks. Here is a video tutorial that demonstrates how to install a water line to an ice maker or refrigerator using a 5 foot hose with 1/4 inch compression fittings. INSTALLING ICE MAKER / REFRIGERATOR WATER LINE - using 1/4" compression hose (youtube.com)

you can add water filter. It is installed on supply line. go to Home Depot and pick up a refrigerator water filter kit with accessories.

inspect the ice make to check for any sign of visible damage or misalignment, .and unplug the fridge and plug it again

Matthew...you sure you have the Model# right? Cuz Google comes up with Zip..Zilch with that #.? :)

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.

The Maytag Model MSD2651KES is a side-by-side refrigerator. It does not have a traditional drip pan underneath like some other refrigerator models. Instead, it uses a drain system to collect and channel condensation and defrost water. The condensation and defrost water from the freezer section of the refrigerator typically flow down through a drain hole and into a drain pan or trough located at the bottom of the refrigerator. This drain pan is usually not accessible from the outside and does not require regular maintenance or emptying. If you are experiencing any issues with water leakage or pooling around your Maytag refrigerator, it is recommended to check the drain system for any blockages or clogs. Ensure that the drain hole is clear and that the water can flow freely through the system. If you suspect a problem with the drain system, it is advisable to consult the refrigerator's user manual or contact Maytag customer support for specific guidance on troubleshooting and resolving the issue.

Either the compressor is broken or is now compromised.The compressor needs to now be replaced for your fridge.

Water is pooling at the bottom of your refrigerator because the drain in the freezer is clogged, probably with ice. You need to turn of the refrigerator and empty the freezer. Remove the cover in the bottom of the freezer by first removing the back cover of the freezer and then the bottom cover. You will probably see it full of ice. Remove this ice by chipping, or if you have time, let it thaw. Then, located the drain in the back of the compartment below the coils, and thaw it. You can use a hair dryer for this. Eventually, you will see the water drain, and you can dry everything up and put it back together. You should have no more problems. If you do, then you need to look at testing the defroster.