Top 20 Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator Questions & Answers

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Refrigerator-Repair-Help Keep this link for future reference Defrost cycle may have a tendency to give popping sounds, so will an ice maker if it is not hooked up. .Consult your users manual. Free User Manuals and Owners Guides ManualsOnline com I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Not quite sure about your problem but, if it is a wood screw going into your door, you can take the screw out a insert a hardwood toothpick into the screw hole and reinstall the screw. this will fill any stripped out of the hole and screw should fit securely. If it is a metal to metal problem you can go to the hardware store or even walmart and buy a product called " Locktight". it is a liquid that you put on the screw and reinstall it. it will dry and lock the screw in place. Buy the blue if you want to eventually take it out at some point or buy the red, if you want it to stay in place and take a lot of effort to get it back out.

Are you mad, man?

High Voltage control board needs replaced. Here is a link=> Maytag Refrigerator Control Board W10890094 APPLIANCE 911

Some newer refrigerators have a timer that turns off the light after a given amount of time. The alarm may be there to alert you that the door is open.

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Huge number of stainless steel manufacturing companies are available around the world, so only it's difficult to say that which one is the best in all respect like quality of stainless steel, number of products manufactured and many more. As the products manufactured by stainless steel is mainly depend up on the type and quality of stainless steel means it may be plain, ordinary stainless, like in a handle or pot, then any alloy steel drill will do. So mainly good stainless steel manufacturing company provides their customers, unique range of stainless steel products manufactured using the latest technology. All their products are of the best quality which meet the international standards. Integrity and customer satisfaction should be their topmost priority. I think that I know a company who is focusing on the above parameters, called Complete Solutions of Stainless Steel Products in India

Sounds like the thermostat inside the ice maker that allows the heater to come on during harvest cycle is bad. You will need to replace the ice maker. Ice Maker Kit For Maytag Refrigerator Model Number MFI2568AES

Lookup your model number using RepairClinic.com. From there you can view the diagrams of each area of your refrigerator. It doesn't tell you how to assemble it, but you will be able to see which parts go where.

You need to replace the PCB located in the back of the refrigerator. Took me about 20 minutes after I got the part. Then you will have to program the code back into it. Costly but rather easy.

I'd check with one of the several online appliance parts stores. They usually will help with diagnosis of problems and will suggest replacement parts.

ICE MAKER not making ice: Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary. WATER INLET VALVE: Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted. The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve. Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY: If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes. If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.) If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate. This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently. Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker: The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer). If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity). If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

You have a problem with relay and needs to be replaced. I did on mine about 2 years ago. The other possibility could be the shut. Off valve not stopping the water immediately.

You may need to replace the touch pad. The part that you removed from the front can be ordered on searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look at the Dispenser parts diagram to find and order the part.

Hi, THe last time I seen this was a control board replacement was needed to correct this issue. PArt number I came up with for your model is 12920710 is needed to fix this issue. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Check the fan. It comes on at different times. It could be the source of the grinding sound.

check and see if the door is opening and closing that lets air into the fridge from the freezer

applianceparts.com doesn't show that as a model with information. You should visit their site and see if you can find your model on there.

Is the filter down at the bottom of the fridge stopped up? It could be or it also could be a valve closed. Try disconnecting the downstream valve at the filter and see if you have water there. If no, then you definately have a clogged filter. When was the last time you changed the filter?

If the refrigerator water dispenser is not working the water supply tube in the door may be frozen. This will be difficult to track down. Look for a connection point at the bottom or top of the door, try removing the hose and blowing air through it and out the dispenser. Next it could be the water valve that sometimes has twin valves for ice and water combined, third is low pressure into the line (bad main valve) or clogged filter... you need about 20psi for function. Last is the door switch, when the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice and water dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.