20 Most Recent Maytag Ensignia 3.3 cu. ft. Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

"If you dont have a noisy spin cycle and the noise you hear is only on the rince cycle, dont be worried, as this is totally normal. Water sprays onto the drum while the spin cycle is in progress and rewets the clothes to allow any existing soap to be desolved. This noise is in effect the water hitting the drum during the rince part of the cycle.

just change the water pipe please rate my aswer : )

Tip back the washer and remove the belt. No tools are needed. Examine the pump for bearing separation and turn it by hand to see if it is stiff. Look or belt wear. If that is good turn the main drive pulley both ways. Spray a little WD 40 on the brake rotor if it is making a noise. Sometimes it will rust over and growl. More here If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

it will be a circuit board fault

The older models had screws at the base to remove. The newest ones have spring clips instead of screwsthis is a dryer but basically you washer fron panel comes off like this when you release the spring clips on each side with a simple putty knife. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

SOMETHING MAY HAVE GONE THROUGH THE PUM AND PUNTURED THE HOSE OR THE PUMP IS LEAKING.

what were you washing? You can get a new agitator, go to searspartsdirect.com and put in the model number to pull up a diagram.

If the back doesn't come off the you will have to lay it dowm on the front to get to the belt throught the bottom.

THAT MAY BE WHY THEY SOLD IT. IF PROBLEM CONTINUES GET LIVE HELP.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. It may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you
go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Money ...to pay the technician you call to fix it properly!

If it fills with water and starts the cycle and the water keeps running in then your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is sticking. It needs replacing.

could be several things if it is an intermittent squeak that goes in time with the agitation then you have bad brakes if it is constant then you may have a bad pump or object in the pump

sounds like your water level switch is bad OR the small hose that goes from the waterlevel switch to the bottom of the tank has a hole in it.Try replacing this small hose first.you can go to an auto parts store and match it up.it's usually about 3' long and about 1/4" inside diameter and about 99cents a foot.

Something has got in the tub or the bearing is going bad.
If something metalic has gone through a hole or over the top rim, you want to get it out immediately because further use will cut a hole in the tub or damage the drum.
If it's the bearing, it would likely have started soft & gotten louder with time. Is there any play in the drum if you try & move it side to side?

sounds like your balancing ring or your springs gave out underneath to balance load

I had the same exact problem, called a repairman to take a look..he informed me the motor has burnt out! His first thought was the transmission, and said having the motor burnt out is better since it is less expensive.

Hi, Dose the water fill the first time you start it but, then will not fill in the rinse cycle? Does the water continually try to fill but never gets to the top?
I want to help.

Thanks
Vic