Top 20 Nikon D100 Digital Camera Questions & Answers

Not familiar with this particular model, but have you tried removing the lens and seeing whether the aperture closes when you move the control lever ?

Sometimes lens mount to camera can get loose but mostly lens has a electrical connection problem that you would be better off just replacing lens with a good used one from eBay.

Format the card in the camera.

Are the controls set in a position that does not allow flash? For example, in some scene modes, flash is excluded, as it is in S or A modes. Also, if your camera has a flash control, make sure it is not in "Flash off", a lightening bolt with a diagonal line through it.

Nikon no longer has the D100 manual on line; but if it is like the more modern Nikons, you will be able to select the resolution in mp from one of your camera's built in menus.

The D-90 and D-100 are similar so this may work for you. On my D-90, you go to the menu, then click on the little pencil Icon. The top line will read: Reset Custom settings." Click on this line then click "yes" to reset all custom settings back to default. You can also reset individual settings back to default by clicking on the line for the specific setting you want to reset. In addition, on the top right side of the camera you will find a "+/-" button and an "AF" button. Both are marked by little green dots. Press these two buttons simultaneously for several seconds and it will reset most of the custom settings back to default.

Unprotect the files by pressing the key button while in playback mode. See page 119 of the manual at http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D100_en.pdf

Unprotect the files first by pressing the key button while in playback mode. See page 119 of the manual: http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D100_en.pdf

Unprotect the file(s) by pressing the key button in playback mode. See page 119 of this manual: http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D100_en.pdf

This is an odd problem if you're using a standard lens. I've been told that it's called photo chromatic aberration and it's a fairly common problem with inexpensive big (600-1200mm) telephoto lenses. If it's happening with a good quality standard lens this suggests that there may be a problem with the autofocus not being quite set when you take the first shot then being fully adjusted by the time you take the second shot. I'd suggest contacting Nikon support at www.nikon.com to see what they suggest. Be sure to provide them with information about what kind of lens you are using and what the light conditions are.

If the view finder is dim it is likely the iris of the lens is stuck and cannot acquire correct lighting. It need to be repaired by disassembling the lens.

Is a CF card in the camera?

This may linked directly to an issue with the memory card or internal storage circuits.When the shutter release is operated, the image projected on the sensor is collected and sent to the internal high speed memory of the camera called the buffer. This buffer is very fast - but not very large in capacity. Depending on your exposure settings (NEF, JPEG, NEF w/ Preview, Large, Med Small, Fine, etc.) you may be able to take anywhere between 6 and 75 exposures in rapid succession - this means 3 or 4 per second. Once the camera's internal buffer is full, it must be sent to the comparatively slow CF card. When this happens, no more shooting can take place.A minute strikes me as being too long for this to take. I would recommend that you remove the CF card and copy the contents to a computer. Format the card by the computer to make sure that it has the capacity indicated on the label. If it is slightly less, it is OK - if it is more than that, it may indicate a problem area on the card that the camera is repeatedly attempting store data upon. If the CF card checks out OK, return it to the camera and format it in the camera. This is a very important step. Whenever you transfer pictures from the card - whether it is with a card reader or via a cable between the computer and the camera - format the card after the transfer in the camera - before taking more photos. CF cards have dropped in price, and you may benefit from buying a new one for use in the camera. Select a faster class card whenever possible. Memory cards do have a finite number of read / write operations and you may be reaching the end of life on yours.I hope this helps and good luck!

press the flash mark button and make it on.

Hm, the photo doesn't work properly, could you re-upload it? And did you check the manual for your specific device? If not, you can find it here: Nikon D100 PDF Manual Download

The inner mechanism may be dirty, "and a professional cleaning may fix that, or the complete dial might need to be replaced.

Take a look inside your camera's CF card slot. It's very likely that you may have a bent pin in there. If so, remove batteries and card. Use a small/skinny jeweler's flat screwdriver to bend the pin back as close as possible. The jeweler's screwdrivers that you see at the dollar store will work fine. Another tool that I sometimes use is a stiff wire with a bent hook on the end to get very flattened pins started. Take your time and use as much patience as you can muster (take a breather in between if needed). Just keep nudging it upward/straighter a "tiny bit at a time". Whatever you do, don't try to unbend it with one push/nudge, you won't be able to do it.It doesn't have to be perfect, just as close as you can get it. When it's the best that you can get it, take your flash card and "SLOWLY" insert it. The card itself should fine-align the pin. Remove the card, and verify that the pin is still straightened. If so, reinsert the card and try it out.

change the batteries

First, the "r06" message is NOT an error code. It indicates the number of shots remaining in the internal memory buffer, before the camera must prevent additional shutter actuations so that it may transfer those images already in the buffer to the memory card. This "r" number will decrease with each shot taken in rapid succession until it reaches 0. The shutter release will no longer work until the buffer is transferred to the memory card, then shooting may continue again.

As far as not being able to even see through the viewfinder, it sounds like something may be obstructing the light from reaching the meter and viewfinder. The problem is most likely the position of mirror inside the camera body. With the lens off the body, the mirror should be plainly visible at about a 45 degree angle to the opening. A side view drawing of this is below. The solid red line is the mirror in the normal position. The red dashed line is the up position of the mirror when the shutter is released.



When the mirror is in the "normal" position, the light from the lens is projected on a screen so that the image is visible in the viewfinder for composing and can be metered. When in the "up" position (when the shutter release is fully depressed), the light from the lens is projected on the camera's sensor for as long as set by the manual settings or program; based on ISO, aperture, etc. At the end of this time, the mirror returns to the "normal" position.

If your D100's mirror is not in the lowered 45 degree angle position, the image seen in the viewfinder is inside the camera - not that which the lens would project. Hence, the dark viewfinder, long exposure times and - I'm guessing - severely overexposed pictures because way too much light is striking the sensor because the meter is only seeing darkness.

If the mirror is ok, with the lens removed from the body, look for the aperture lever as shown in the yellow circle in the picture below:



By default, the aperture is at minimum. The camera moves the lever from this position to full open (and anywhere between) as needed. You should gently move the lever to the other end of its travel to open the aperture to maximum. Point the lens away from a light source but preferably at a light colored background. Look through the lens. There should be no obstructions and be clear. Next, look at a dark colored background to find the same results. If you want, you can even allow sunlight to shine through the lens onto a sheet of paper (like a magnifying glass). The result should be a bright circle with no obstructions. Obstructions in the lens will prevent the meter in the camera from getting accurate information about the scene and if significant enough, prevent viewing through the viewfinder.

You may wish to have the camera & lens professionally cleaned and serviced to repair a mirror or lens issue.

If this was helpful, please rate it as such. Good luck!