20 Most Recent Nikon D100 Digital Camera - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Mine too. It's a worn-out selector switch. Jiggle it and it'll work again. Time delay same. Our college has four Nikon D100s with this problem. Poor switch contacts.

The inner mechanism may be dirty, "and a professional cleaning may fix that, or the complete dial might need to be replaced.

change the batteries

Take a look inside your camera's CF card slot. It's very likely that you may have a bent pin in there. If so, remove batteries and card. Use a small/skinny jeweler's flat screwdriver to bend the pin back as close as possible. The jeweler's screwdrivers that you see at the dollar store will work fine. Another tool that I sometimes use is a stiff wire with a bent hook on the end to get very flattened pins started. Take your time and use as much patience as you can muster (take a breather in between if needed). Just keep nudging it upward/straighter a "tiny bit at a time". Whatever you do, don't try to unbend it with one push/nudge, you won't be able to do it.It doesn't have to be perfect, just as close as you can get it. When it's the best that you can get it, take your flash card and "SLOWLY" insert it. The card itself should fine-align the pin. Remove the card, and verify that the pin is still straightened. If so, reinsert the card and try it out.

First, the "r06" message is NOT an error code. It indicates the number of shots remaining in the internal memory buffer, before the camera must prevent additional shutter actuations so that it may transfer those images already in the buffer to the memory card. This "r" number will decrease with each shot taken in rapid succession until it reaches 0. The shutter release will no longer work until the buffer is transferred to the memory card, then shooting may continue again.

As far as not being able to even see through the viewfinder, it sounds like something may be obstructing the light from reaching the meter and viewfinder. The problem is most likely the position of mirror inside the camera body. With the lens off the body, the mirror should be plainly visible at about a 45 degree angle to the opening. A side view drawing of this is below. The solid red line is the mirror in the normal position. The red dashed line is the up position of the mirror when the shutter is released.



When the mirror is in the "normal" position, the light from the lens is projected on a screen so that the image is visible in the viewfinder for composing and can be metered. When in the "up" position (when the shutter release is fully depressed), the light from the lens is projected on the camera's sensor for as long as set by the manual settings or program; based on ISO, aperture, etc. At the end of this time, the mirror returns to the "normal" position.

If your D100's mirror is not in the lowered 45 degree angle position, the image seen in the viewfinder is inside the camera - not that which the lens would project. Hence, the dark viewfinder, long exposure times and - I'm guessing - severely overexposed pictures because way too much light is striking the sensor because the meter is only seeing darkness.

If the mirror is ok, with the lens removed from the body, look for the aperture lever as shown in the yellow circle in the picture below:



By default, the aperture is at minimum. The camera moves the lever from this position to full open (and anywhere between) as needed. You should gently move the lever to the other end of its travel to open the aperture to maximum. Point the lens away from a light source but preferably at a light colored background. Look through the lens. There should be no obstructions and be clear. Next, look at a dark colored background to find the same results. If you want, you can even allow sunlight to shine through the lens onto a sheet of paper (like a magnifying glass). The result should be a bright circle with no obstructions. Obstructions in the lens will prevent the meter in the camera from getting accurate information about the scene and if significant enough, prevent viewing through the viewfinder.

You may wish to have the camera & lens professionally cleaned and serviced to repair a mirror or lens issue.

If this was helpful, please rate it as such. Good luck!

Turn the aperture ring on the lens to its smallest setting (largest f/number). You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same way as on a ones without an aperture ring.

Try removing the lens and re-attaching it.

Take a look at this tip: http://www.fixya.com/support/r9715792-flashing_photos_nikon_camera

Remove the lens and fire a shot...look at the mirror....does it return? If not, the viewfinder will remain dark. If it's stuck in the up position, you'll need to find the cause but be careful...do not touch the surface of the mirror.

Why would you want to do this?....connect a computer to your camera and lug it around just so you can shoot live view pictures?

If your memory card is full of pictures or it's a slow card, it will take the camera longer to write to it and display the picture.

CFconnector bad ,replacement needed.

Show PC ? Some error code? Exactly what is your problem, send us description details.

How long have you had the camera? It just sounds like the camera is in Manual mode or "M" and the shutter speed is set really slow. Try putting it back on automatic, or twist the dial that will increase the shutter speed. You can find the manual on Nikon's website.

Honestly with a camera that old i could see the camera being go. It is possible that some internal connections and points that transfer power have either blow out or become too old to work anymore.

If you mean the picture quality is bright use the white balance and bring it down. it is in the settings or there is a button

Hi,please can you expand more details about the damage you thinks has the d100.
eg shutter speed and aperture shown on the display and if there is some variation of these values according to mode and brightness of the scene,or is frozen in a sh speed even when the scene is brightly lit.

greethings.