20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel (IWL12) - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Pump removal

107. (01101011) Motor Control Module Reset Error The Display Module has detected that the Motor Control Module has reset when it should not have. This can be due to a Motor Control Module supply disturbance or microprocessor failure. Primary Source: Motor Control Module. Action: Replace Motor Control Module.

Try to get a Rotor position sensor as they are cheaper. If left long enough you would get this fault code 130. (10000010) Single Rotor Position Sensor Error The Motor Control Module has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor Position Sensor. Likely causes of this fault are a bad connection on the harness between the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Control Module, or a faulty Rotor Position Sensor. Primary Source: Wiring. Action: Check for corrosion on the RAST connector of the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Control Module connector. Secondary Source: Rotor Position Sensor. Action: Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if faulty. Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module. Action: Replace Motor Control Module. Quaternary Source: Rotor Action: Ensure the correct rotor for this phase of machine has been fitted

You need to check three things: 1:Lid switch in the display board. 2:out of balance switch under large blue board for corrosion. 3: Rotor position sensor for corrosion.

It could be the 4amp fuse. Get a qualified technician to replace the fuse

I didn't know the codes went this high! it will be a motor controller fault I would suggest, as all other faults above 140 are motor controller.

the buzzing noise is the pump trying to work, but it cannot due to a blockage. unplug the washer and you can lean the washer backwards and remove the pump to unblock. the fill error is probably unrelated, and is an inlet valve issue.

there will be a series of lights, or a fault code being displayed. this will help track the problem. as this problem happens with all persisting faults.commonly this is the OOB switch, under the bottom board. check that it is clicking correctly by reaching your hand under the lid, above the bowl, back to the right is a bar that sticks down, and activates the switch that you can press back with your hand and listen for a microswitch click.

Your cold water valve has failed and needs replacing, quite an easy fix. To get to it first unplug from wall, next remove water hoses from the machine, next lift the lid up and then just pull it off, next remove the two Phillips head screws at the of the rear of display console, lift off then unplug from motor controller, valves are now visible and are the parts which the water hoses where removed from, if they are blue in colour you will need to replace both hot and cold valves as the blue ones are a single unit but if they are white in colour you can replace the one that is not working as they are separate units. When removing the valves it will pay to cover the brown motor controller computer with a towel so as not to accidently get any water in it when removing as they do tend to hold a little abit inside. You can source parts from fisher & paykel you will need to quote the model number which is GW612 and the serial number aswell with that model as there can possibly be two types of valve available for that model, so keep them numbers handy when ringing them. Make sure you have display console fitted first aswell when putting it back together before fitting the water hoses just to make sure you don't accidently get any water on main computer board as this will kill it completely.

I have the same machine in the laundry,(IW812)This is normal for large bulky items to get stuck to one side of the bowl when spinning dry.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html