the system board should be labelled where the jumper pins connect. if you are in the right spot, but the lights dont work, then flip the connection around, because LED lights are polarized, meaning they will not light up unless the + and - are plugged in correctly. Usually, the wire with the COLORING on it is the + and the white, gray, or black wire is the -
On a Asus motherboard its not designed for eMachines systems because they come with a proprietary setting on the case. So what you need to is take the emachines motherboard that you took out and take the new motherboard that you bought and match the two. If there is a difference then you need to return it or buy a new case and you shift all the hardware from the emachines to the new case. If not buy a similar replacement board from emachines or ebay and you can find one and buy it. The Power setting is on all motherboards but some are different then others.
You really aren't giving much info, so here are some beep - codes, also make sure nothing came loose on the motherboard or other components ( do this ONLY if you know how ) Safety first.
BIOS Beep Sound core list
1 short(Beep) System booting is normally.
2 short(Beep) CMOS setting error
1 long - 1 short(Beep) DRAM ERROR
1 long - 2 short(Beep) Display card or monitor connected error
1 long - 3 short(Beep) Keyboard Error
1 long - 9 short(Beep) ROM Error
Long(Beep) continuous DRAM hasn't inset correctly.
Short(Beep) continuous POWER supply has problem.
1 short(Beep) DRAM Flash Error
2 short(Beep) DRAM ECC Check Error
3 short(Beep) DRAM Detect Fail
5 short(Beep) CPU Error
6 short(Beep) Keyboard Error
8 short(Beep) Display card memory Error
9 short(Beep) ROM Error
1 long - 3 short(Beep) DRAM Damage
1 long - 8 short(Beep) Display card or monitor connected error
You could be right in your analysis, however, before replacing the PSU unit (a weak point with both Medion and E-machine computers) check the following:
That the Power button is not sticking in the case
Inside the computer case, the PW wire is firmly making contact with the motherboard (switch to motherboard 2 pin wires)
That the PW wire does not have a kink in or is broken giving an intermittent fault
After checking those:
Disconnect HDD, DVD Writer, remove 1 stick of ram and test with each removed, replacing each in turn. If the computer still does not boot, then check the ATX connector to the motherboard and the 4 pin auxiliary CPU connector (black and yellow) if fitted
Remove the motherboard and check underneath to make sure there are no items of metal that might be causing the board to short out. Check the board underneath for signs of blacking or burning.
Replace the board and refit all connections.
Inspect the capacitors on the board (small cylinders) if any are bulging at the top, leaking and with a brown residue, the board is failing and will need replacement.
Finally, remove the PSU and test with a known good one.
If this fails and the board shows no blowing capacitors, the problems may now lie with a blown CPU or micro damage to one of the motherboard circuits
This can be because of virus infection, there are so many applications on your start up and low virtual memory. But my best suggestion is for you to run a virus scan on your computer so it can detect viruses, worms and malware that you get in surfing the internet or by just sharing files. If this will not work you need to re-install your OS so your computer would be like brand new.
Sounds like it might be your power supply, you may need to replace it. Emachines are known to have their power supplies go out quickly. I would go to bestbuy or frys electronics and buy a new power supply, costs about 50 bucks. To install it is quite simple just open your pc and unscrew where the big box at the top where the power cord usually goes into.
I'd like you to check some components on the motherboard. Specifically, Electrolytic Capacitors.
More specifically, the one's used in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.
This is a leading cause of a computer booting up, then shutting down, then restarting again.
eMachines are a budget computer. The low cost, is due to low quality hardware components inside the computer.. Electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, being some of the above stated components.
1) Electrolytic Capacitors slowly build a charge up, then release the charge all at once. Akin to a swimming pool slowly being filled up by a garden hose, then one wall of the pool is taken down all at once.
The Electrolytic capacitors used on the motherboard, are aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, and are Radial in design.
Viewing the second photo down, at the top right of the page, the bottom Electrolytic Capacitor is of the radial design. Both leads come out of the bottom.
Essentially, an aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor is a small aluminum 'can', with three strips of thin foil rolled up together, inside.
A) One strip is metal, and is the Conducting strip.
B) One strip is also metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
C) The last strip is composed of a paper-like material, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.
The paper strip is placed between the two metal strips, and all three strips are rolled up tightly, then inserted into the 'can'.
(Of the two leads that protrude from the bottom of the capacitor, one is a Positive lead, the other is a Negative lead. The Positive lead is connected to the Conducting strip. The Negative lead is connected to the Non-Conducting strip)
At the bottom of the 'can' case is a seal. This seal is composed of a synthetic rubber-like material, and is a flat disk shape.
At the top of the 'can' case is another seal. It is a thin, flat, disk of metal. The center of this disk shape has an X, or K, etched partially into the disk.
Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. The design manufacturer of a product that uses this type of capacitor, is aware of this, and plans accordingly.
The capacitor used is 50 percent better than is required. This way as the capacitor breaks down, it weakens to a state that is still usable.
Low quality Electrolytic Capacitors have inferior Electrolytic paste. As the paste breaks down a gas is formed. (Hydrogen gas)
The gas expands inside the can's case, and slowly pushes the Electrolytic paste out. (Oozes out)
When the capacitor is starting to break down, the outside can case bulges.
As the capacitor breaks down further, the paste is pushed out of the bottom seal, (Rubber like disk has one side pushed out of the bottom), and/or breaks the etched design on top open, and paste pushes out.
So much paste loss, and the capacitor can operate in a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. The paste can also dry up inside, and will show no outward visual signs of failure.
Computer unplugged from power, computer case open. TOUCH (Not 'shouting') the metal frame of the open computer case, BEFORE you reach inside, to relieve your body of static electricity.
[Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer. You may not even see it, or feel it.
Computer unplugged from power you are safe. TOUCH the metal frame, and your computer is safe. Work on a table. Do Not work on a bed, or directly on a carpet floor. These are high areas of static.
Should you get up, and walk away in the middle of working on your computer, be Sure to touch the metal frame upon your return]
See if you can observe visual signs of capacitor failure.
Maybe you should try to do a "destructive" restore. when restoring from the recovery disc, you have the option to do a "destructive" or "none destructive" system recovery. if you choose to to non destructive recovery, then any virus that may be on your pc will not be removed and this may be the reason why your recovery always stops half way through. note that this will format the hard drive and you will loose all the files on the hard drive, including photos and documents. if this doesn't work then you should try to find out if you have a hardware problem. you can download one diagnostic software from seagate, that you burn to a cd. you use this as a boot disc, like the recovery disc, to test your hard drive, memory and motherboard to see if you need to replace any components. the most common problem is the hard drive. http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=SeaTools&vgnextoid=720bd20cacdec010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD
I assume you are looking to connect another hard drive in your computer.
Most desktop computers have two IDE controllers.
The 1st controller will have the "C" drive set to Master (MA) and there maybe another drive CD or DVD drive on the same IDE cable, if so the drive will be set to Slave (SL) or if you intend to install a drive on this cable.
The 2nd. IDE controller and cable can have hard drive or CD/DVD drives too but the drives must be set to either Master or Slave - BOTH drives in the one cable CANNOT be set the same.
Most CD/DVD drives have a label showing the jumper setting for Master (MA), Slave (SL)and Cable Select (CS).
You only need a single jumper and it is inserted in a vertical position. There are a group of 6 pins (3 columns of 2 pins) next to the 40 pin IDE connector. The Slave setting is usually the middle set of pins.