Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty .
.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. Might be time to invest in a new amp.
Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty .
.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.
Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Vibe is mediocre. Time to invest in an old school Lanzar
Opti Drive amp.
.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.
protect mode usaully means that something has disrupted the power of feed lines to the subwoofer/speakers possibly fuse is blown in amp or amp is blown in which we hope not. see if you have a warrenty if blown and send back or bring it to where you purchased it from.
If the amp stays in protect mode all of the time, I would suspect a short in the speaker wiring or speaker(s) voice coil(s), or perhaps a faulty ground. If it plays for a short period of time and then goes into protect mode, it is most likely overheating. First check all of the wiring. Test your speakers on a known good amp and make sure there are no places in your wiring where the insulation may have been damaged, causing an intermittent problem.
Many owners have reported that this particular amp has a tendency to overheat. Also, when run in bridged mode, the speaker impedance needs to be at least 4 ohms. It will overheat if the impedance is below 4 ohms.
most commonly that means that somewhere there was an arc in the electrical either the pos or neg going into the amp or rcas or its the speaker wire from the amp to to the sub itself look especially for little wires touching opposit polarity wire (like a little +wire has moved and touched a - wire)
Yes it should do the job. You will need to wire the sub in series and make sure you have a 4ohm load on the amp. It should be right at around 700 watts RMS @ 12-13 volts. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/chris_7f7f91eb941fb23f
do a test by take some small speaker wire and attaching the power and remwires to the + terminal on ur car batt and attach the neg wire to the -terminal. if it still does it check my other posts ive talked alot about problems with this amp
this sound like a case of arcing power wire it happens very very easy if u use cheap wire especially from walmart. whatever u do keep using fuses and get a batt test asap. if u take out the fuses ull burn the amp like no other and plobably burn out the power rails which will be cheaper to buy a new amp after that
first thing check all ground and power wires and make sure ur rca wire make sure it isnt cut in anyway. after that unplug ur sub and unplug the negative wire from ur amp, while its out check the fuses on the amp if all is well put all fuses back if not get new. then plug the negative wire back in if protect goes off check for heat and if no heat inspect the wires from speaker out put all the way to the sub, look for any wire touching another this is were most problems are even the smallest wire can trip a protect. if u still cant find the problem. an amplifier specialist is in order.if its trashed go on ebay and buy a powerbass there goin cheap right now. hope i could help
The 2 ohm stable rating on the amp is PER channel meaning that you could effectively hook up a 2 ohm speaker or a 2 ohm load to each channel without the amp getting f"d up-butin bridged mode it will only be 4 ohm stable. to achieve a 4 ohm load with your sub the type x wire the coils in series that will get you at 4 ohms to run in bridged mono .But you will get the exact same amount of power if you wire each coil to one channel of the amp as bridged mono sees the sum of your 2 ohm channels combined-Hope that helps.
This sounds like a problem with the power input to the amplifier; it's possible, but unlikely, that your CD player is causing it.
Before you can do any real troubleshooting, you need a voltmeter. When your CD player is turned on, you should get a voltmeter reading of around 12 volts at the amplifier's remote terminal and B+ (power) terminal.
If your main power wire doesn't show voltage, check for a loose or corroded connection at the battery or fuseholder, and try replacing the fuse (even if it looks okay). If there's no voltage on the remote wire, it may be pinched or shorted between the CD player and the amplifier, or the CD player may be faulty. If you get a good voltage reading on both wires, but the amp won't turn on, then you have a problem in the amplifier.
No such thing as too much power unless you have a faulty alternator/voltage regulator. The hundred amp fuse at the battery is better than none but I would replace it with a 50 Amp, that fuse is really only protecting the power wire from grounding out and burning.
The gains are irrelevant, all they do is attenuate the input. Set them so you cant hear any amp hiss or noise on quiet passages of music or between tracks.
Make sure your not starving the amp for power. Start at the battery connections and work your way back to the amp, inspect all connections for corrosion and make sure they are tight. Check the ground wire . It is just as important as the power wire!! Try to ground it as close to the amp as practical, scrape off the paint down to the metal use a oversize screw with a star lock washer and a ring terminal. Make sure that your power wire and ground are at least 8 gauge.
Next on the list is your speakers and related wiring, check to make sure that your impedence is not too low for the amps rating. and that the wiring is correct and at least 16 gauge, 12 is better. . You can check the speakers impedance with a Ohmmeter, it wont be exact but it should be close +/- .5 Ohm If you are bridging, make sure the speakers are wired in parallel + with+ and - with - .check the amps rating and bridging configuration, it's normally left positive, right negative, but check!
Having done all the above, and you still have a problem only two possibility's left, Defective speakers or the amp. Check with a qualified installer, buy him lunch, you'll get good advice forever. I hope it helps. Regards Paul
