20 Most Recent Lanzar VIBE286 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Time to get an old school Opti Drive. .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. Lanzar

You can only reset it by disconnecting power to it. If it is in protect you may want to check your speakers and speaker wires for shorts and/or grounds. If they check out all right you may have internal problems in the amp.

if a cap has blown then the mos-fet's has probably gone down and to be honest there will be a lot of other possibility, how did it happen?

Check to make sure that there are no stray wires crossing into other inputs in the amp, if everything checks out OK then the problem is internal.

run them straight and dont use the cross over. One speak on right channel and the other on other channel. Then turn up amp settings 7/8 the way up and control the rest from your dvd/cd player. I recommend some monster cable which is very thick. Ground the amp directly to trunk bolts but make sure to scrape the paint off or the connection will be bad. You can also use a cap which will send battery pulses to amp much quicker.

do you no what ohm your amp can do and what your subs are

bad output transistor or fet transistor.

Hi alduc,
This symptom indicated that your unit gone to overload due to faulty load(output/pre-amplifier stage) or the power supply regulation itself.
Power supply - you have to check this section for bad solder joints(crack/dried/cold solder). This will produce an out-of regulation output feeding the sound output amplifier section and other sections. This is hard to spot, you must work in the brightest area to spot it and re-solder. Another caused was the bad filter electrolytic capacitor. This capacitor will do the same symptoms once have a high ESR value, you must have a capacitor checker to determine its condition. Another parts to check is the open resistors in the output of this stage.
Pre-amplifier stage - Also you have to check for bad solder joints, bad filter electrolytic capacitor. Faulty pre-amplifier IC will produced weak sound and other sound abnormalities feeding the sound amplifier stage.
Sound output stage - Also check for bad solder joints, bad filter electrolytic capacitor, open resistors. Another parts to check is the sound mosfet transistor(mounted in heat sink). You have a couple of this transistor in this section, you have to compare the reading to have an idea which transistor gone bad.
If you don't have necessary tools and test instrument and can't troubleshoot the symptom yourself, I would advice you to find an experienced technician to isolate the problem.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

try hooking a wire from your mane hot to your remote and see if it comes on if so then your remote wire is bad from your radio

When we say, "check your ground" all we mean is to look at the ground wire that connects to the amp and make sure it's adequately grounded. What I do is bolt it to a car seat bolt, that is the best ground you can get(called chasis ground). Try that and if you're still experiencing issues, troubleshoot it by removing one signal wire at a time. signal wires are the speaker and auxillary wires. Sometimes a short on these wires will cause the amp to go into protect mode. If you removed all your signal wires and all you have left on the amp is the remote, power(12volt battery) and the ground and your amp still goes into protect mode, then there's a short in your amp. good luck

am sorry to say this but you have a bad channel, take the amp to get it fixed since running it like this will burn the other channel,

The impedence of the speakers does not match the amp operating impedence. This amplifier is made to run a 2ohms stereo stable which means 2ohms per channel or 4ohms bridged.

If you have the amp bridged mono to run both 15's, it's gonna get smokin hot. That's the nature of the beast. Just make sure it's got plenty of room around it to breathe, if you want to put fans on it, just make sure the fans you buy are DC voltage and noise shielded. If you surf the net you can find lots of electronics parts providers out there, just explain to them what you are trying to accomplish and that you do not wish to introduce ignition noise into the system and need a quiet running fan. That will at least keep air moving across the unit and draw heat away. End result, it can't hurt. Hope this helps

Try running the amp without the speaker wires hooked up. See if the light is still on. If it is still on, the disconnect all power to amp for 12 hours. This should reset the amp. Then try again without and then with the speakers. This should fix the problem. If the light is still on, that means a capacitor inside could have overheated and fried the output.

First try unhooking the speakers and see if it continues to go into protect mode. If it does'nt then your speakers are running to low of ohms required for that amp causing it to go into protect mode. If it still goes into protect mode check your ground, might have a voltage problem and check voltage going into amp. I have read the manual and this amp has advanced circuit protection. So if all I have asked you to do and it still goes into protect mode then amp is faulty and has some output transistors shorted or power supply mosfets shorted. Let me know what you find. But you need to do what I have explained to narrow the problem down. Good luck, Keep me informed. I will be glad to help you thru this. I also have a business of repairing car amps and you will not find anyone cheeper. So if you want it repaired and you feel you can't do it, just send it to me and I will repair. If you decide this E-mail me at:[email protected] and we can discuss it in more detail. Just a thought to try and help you out. I have many customers that send me there amps and I repair them and ship them back. A few come from this site. Let me know Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

Turn Down the Gain a little bit at Medium Vol. Till they don't Pop. Go to www.Crutchfield.com for a Wiring Diagram.

You probably have ONE of the speakers wired out of phase.

If the speakers are wired correctly, you may have the crossover set to high pass instead of low pass.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hi, when the fuses blow it can only mean that the current the passed thru it is greater than its rating. It is possible that the fuses installed has a lower rating than is required by your amp. To check look over the specs of your amp and determine the proper amperage (amp) rating. Specs may be found on a sticker at the bottom or side of the amp and may look something like 12V-20A meaning 12 volts 20 amperes. In the absence, you may want to check the box and/or the instructional manual that came with it ot go to the manufacturer's website to checkout the specs. If you are referring to the fuse serving all your amps, players, receivers, etc, then you have to addup all their individual A rating and get a fuse whose rating is equal to the addedup value. Although this is not a sound practice and individual fusing is preferable. If the amp rating is equal to the fuse rating but it still blows, then you may want to have your amp checked. Trying to install a higher rating will most likely prevent fuses blowing and present itself as a temporary solution but the real problem is not solved and may be aggravated. Hope this be of some help and good luck.

Depends entirely on the output impedance of the amplifier and of course if it matches your loudspeakers.